Dragon7665

Hey by any chance, does anyone know when the Final Molson 500 in Vancouver BC was??? I have been trying to find info on that for sometime, as I remember going by the track in Vancouver when I was younger, but I never got the chance to catch a race..... The last time I was up there in '02, I saw plenty of BillBoards and such advertising it, but I could never find a date that it was going on.....

Well Geez I was just trying to help a Brother out, and take his eyesore from him, and replace it with a Fresh Start

OH GOOD GAWD that thing is hideous!!! Wow Quickly pack that thing up, send it to me, and I will be sure to send you a replacement kit STAT!!!

LOL No Worries Mike, I thought that seemed a bit too easy Just to throw an idea out there, since the majority of the kits are 1/24th scale, why not use a cheap but decent display diecast, like a Maisto DYI Diecast Kit???? Since it's already apart like a kit, you can use its Headlights to make Resin/Silicone Rubber Molds of them, then Cast Clear Epoxy/Resin copies of them, to use in as many kits as you deem fit.... Once done, if the Diecast Kit lights are still salvagable, you can put them back on the model so you can display it, or relist it on Flea-Bey/Trade it off....

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.p...p;hl=Headlights

Very Nice looking build What's up with the FURD motor in a Chebby though

Kool Lil' Screamer Geez All that is missin, is a pair of Goggles, and Mud Rooster Tails comming off the rear tires

Now that's a Great Lookin Odd Rod you got there Geez I'm sure Ol' Henry Hizself would think that engine looks Perfect backed by one of hiz bodiez!

Actually most will give Ol' George credit for The Munster's Koach, and Grandpa's Dragula, but the truth is that Tom Daniel created the Original Designs... George just supplied the Specifications of what he wanted for them... Also it was Kustomizer Dick Dean that did the majority of the work on both, as George was busy with other projects.... http://www.tomdaniel.com/td_career/td_arti.../sae_daniel.pdf

Boy that's a Fun one! I have always wanted to do a few Shuttles, my problem is that I would wind up with all of the different Shuttles over the years!(Dang Frito Lay was right, I can't stop at just one ) More than likely it is 1/144th or there approximately....... The problem would be identifying it, if it doesn't have the manufacturer molded on it.... Revell and Aifix have offered a few different Columbia kits, and MPC did atleast one Columbia Kit.... A couple of Revell's Kits: Airfix Kit: MPC's There have been other manufacturers that have done 1/144th scale Shuttle Kits, and I'm sure some of them could have come with Columbia decals as an option..... Here's a Site for kit Info., just scroll down till you see the Space Shuttle listings... http://www.ninfinger.org/~sven/models/space_models.html

I'm not currently a Marine of Active Service, but aparently Semper Fi has beeen my Family Montra, before the United States Marine Corps. was created...... So Thank You all for your Service,Semper Fi, and Welcome to Extended Family BTW, isn't this two days early????

To quote some of my F&F Idiot Customers I had when the first movie came out! "Dude does that thing have NOS??? NOS would make it super fast, you should add some!!!" Whoa I think I felt my IQ dip a bit writting that LOL Nice Build!

LOL Try pressing and Holding down the 1 on your phone..... Most phones have simple single button hold dial feature, that will automatically call your carriers VM Box, and then you enter in a pass code..... Generally all phones have it, and the majority of the Carriers offer it as a No Minutes Usage, Free Service...... Phone manufacturers program in the simple 1 button hold, so that you don't have to fumble around for the number.....

From my Experience with Acetate or Rubber parts, Brake Fluid would melt or dissolve said pieces(That was with pieces of an Old Dealer Display Promo, and it actally turned to a gooey mess).... Depending on the Paint, I would take some DAWN Dishsoap, and place a little dab on a small un-noticable spot... After a few minutes or so, swirl your finger over the spot, while holding the Part under Cool running water...... If the paint removes easily, and the Acetate/Rubber part is un-effected, continue removing the paint from the part.... I would also try replacing your finger, with a soft-toothed Toothbrush to help speed things up...... Please Take Your Time, and Use Caution with any method you choose.....

Yeah I hear ya Bill! But Chrysler got this way due to Bad Management that was only out to make a quick buck...... Me I have been a Big3 Fan since I was little, so this just seems like the wise thing to do....... To me it seems almost like History Repeating itself, like when the Auto Union Group was created in Germany, during the 1930's(Auto Union later back what is Modern Audi AG, who is a part of VW AG)..... If Ford was Forced into the Merger with GM and Chrysler, then it would be an all New Auto Union!

LOL Yeah Ford still knows how to make trucks that burn to the ground, just like they did in the early 80's! Seriously, Ford has only Designed decent trucks, they haven't built a Good truck since '79, and a good car since about '70 or so... If I was to own a Brand New Ford Truck, the first thing I would do is re-wire the Mugger, since they still haven't fixed their problems.... Hey I'm right there with you on the Defender, and it was pretty nice of Ford to not screw them up too much..... Can't really say I'd still want any of the Next Future Models, since Ford Dumped the Line, and the Current Owners are moving Production to India......

Very Kleanly Detailed Scoobaru I have always wanted a Fullsize Blacked out wagon, or a Traditional Blue Rallye Clone just for fun! Yes I would be Krazy enough to Jump the Rallye Clone like the real ones

Kool Little JD Hauler Looks like something that may have been used to fly-by the Keystone Cops during the Prohibition

Wow Looks Amazing Lyle!!!! The Carson Top, and Chopped Windshield Frame looks like they were borrowed from AMT's 50 Ford Vert.....

Looking Good Marc Can never go wrong with me, when any Merc is involved!!

I too would enjoy having the AMX, same bodystyle Comets and Mavericks, but the Cuda always seemed a bit chinsy/cheap when it came to the detail.... Atleast all of the Testor's Reboxing that I saw when they were out..... Yeah the Ramblers never seemed to take off when they had Testor's name on the box, in fact I got one back in the day for $8 with the Pewter Rims, and the Mavericks and such were still going for $28-35 at the time(I've always like the AMC's, and the Rambler's were Kool little Sleepers waiting to happen).....

You know I always found that fact with the Hillbillies to be funny, I mean the main background character of the show, was a Truck made from an Oldsmobile Touring Car..... Why GM wasn't smart enough to back them, is beyond me.....

Yep that they did Bill, but the funny thing is, it wasn't just a problem with those Stinkin' Lincoln's either..... Cadillac got their bags/air shocks/struts from the same supplier, as did Land Rover for their Range's of the same era, and all of them were plagued with the Air Pieces prematurely blowing out... Generally the owners of said Vehicles would just continue to drive them, and the Ride Height Switches/Sensors would cause the Air Compressors to stay running till they burned out The Easiest and Cheapest fix for them, was just to delete the Air-Ride, and Replace with Standard Equiptment....

Thanks fr posting Shawn's Info Bill, I have been wanting to find more info on him for years.... I got to say that I had an odd experience with AMT's 2+2 first release, as when I first saw it open, I too thought it was their Bonne kit repopped...... From what I saw, the majority was just like the Prestige Series Bonne that I had, but the 2+2 body,Interior and Chassis seemed like they were all slightly smaller than the Bonne, and I couldn't get the parts to interchange with the kits when I tried....

Well yes and no, you can color sand metallics, pearls, and Kandies, but you want to take more care with them....... Another words, I would recommend going to a finer grade or two, than what you would normally use (If not an even finer grade than the two above), and then just use more caution when sanding it..... Just be aware that wet sanding will remove imperfections, and layers faster than dry sanding will..... When you finally get to the final clear or top coat, you would be better off Polishing as oppsed to color sanding.. As you will burn through the clear coat faster than a color coat, unless you have built up enough layers to safely cut down.....