Russell C

Don't forget their two years-earlier build-a-bug camper, there's a link with more photos of the article: https://www.goodshomedesign.com/vw-beetle-chassis-with-sleeping-and-camping-for-four/ Days later new discovery edit: Or, if you have lots of money, skip the model building and buy the 43rd scale collectible instead - https://www.amazon.com/Schuco-Beetle-Caravan-Motorhome-450889900/dp/B07ZDFSTW7

A JC Penny Micro Workshop, actually, from sometime in the mid 1980s. I swiped it from my dad back then, hasn't let me down since. Replaced one set of brushes for the motor, and lubed it once.

I use paper (or thin cardboard) ... and a motortool. It's strictly for doing big brutal fast cuts, a trick I learned from one of the legends of the model kit world, Bob Paeth. Basically, if you rub into plastic fast enough, it starts to melt away, so the idea here is to have a stiff paper or cardboard circle bolted into a screw mandrel that's chucked into a Dremel or other type of motor tool. (I must say that inflexible steel circular blades scare the willies out of me). What I do to make the paper/cardboard circles is first cut a square a little bigger than the size I need, then punch or drill a hole the size of the mandrel's screw threads, then bolt the square into the mandrel, chuck it into the motor tool, turn in on and use a pencil to draw a circle border onto the square. Turn it off and use a scissors to cut around the circle perimeter line. As long as you aren't too brutal with the cuts, even a stiff piece of paper will last quite a while. If it bends or shreds, well, just cut out a new one. Saves quite a bit of time compared to the more tedious effort of razor-sawing big chunks of plastic. Top photo here shows it turned off, since I had nobody available to take the photo as I was cutting.

Altered back in the 1990s from the 1:87 scale Monogram Mini-exacts series of assembled toys. Looking at it today, I have no idea how I made the tailgate work.

Well, at least some cloudcover overnight will keep the temps from getting too chilly ...

Also not big on boats. But this is fabulous work!

They're a basically really cool looking thing from the late 1920s, they're called Woodlites, invented by a guy named William Wood. I've saved the article cutout below from MotorTrend ever since 1974 since I liked the look of Ruxton roadsters and how those headlights made the car really stand out. Part of my pic zooms in on the diagram that shows how the light beams were supposed to end up focused in a straight line out the front. Here's an AutoWeek article about them, too: https://www.autoweek.com/car-life/classic-cars/a31473052/woodlites-when-looking-cool-is-more-important-than-seeing-the-road/

'Living in the past' widebody-style fan that I am, I bookmarked his ArtStation page on those a while back: https://www.artstation.com/khyzylsaleem

For the dash panel and console in my silly Plymouth GTMX-5 shorty that I built in the 1990s (I entered it in the GSL 2015 contest for pure laughs, 3 pics here), I used strips cut straight out of a magazine that were from a nice crisp photo of some woodgrain item. Same sort of magazine photo material for the panels in my old 911 woody wagon.

Tried that method once myself, but my dumb pet mouse just dumped the clutch and put the whole fixture through the windshield and into the front seat. ?

So, under the flat pink-ish red (under the gold metalflake) was a robin's egg-ish blue. And when PurplePower lacks horsepower for some paint jobs, bring on the Easy-Off.

Senility on my part strikes again. I remember some of the aerospace photo etch stuff, but not the screen.

I'm inspired to drop by the crafts store to get the faux rock spray cans system so I can paint my 1:1 cooler to look like it was carved out of solid granite. ?

Over in the "Show us your glue bombs" thread it turns out I utterly mistook a quick glance at an MPC logo and thought it said IMC since I was more dazzled by the car I had just gotten. Haven't seen the actual pieces, but in some old version of the MPC GT40 Mk IV, they included a storage cabinet, water cans, oil drum & oil cans, a fire extinguisher, bucket, air compressor on a two-wheel tank, and an entire clear plastic-wall two-axle transport trailer.

Eeeeeeek. One of these days I'll learn how to read. Hokey MPC logo lettering, yes, but I think where really I led myself astray was seeing all the white-molded plastic in this bomb when I was expecting red. MPC must have done an older one than the red plastic version, and this instruction sheet has all of its first page dedicated to a transparent walls two-axle transport trailer. My other excuse besides boneheaded random bouts of illiteracy is that I'm a traditional model builder --- don't need instruction sheets, never read 'em. ?? Nice pics & models! Naw, this suits my purposes purely because of how cheap it was, and all I needed was just the center body section. Mix 'n match guy that I was (Chrysler / Lambos, Cadillac BMWs, etc) and would like to be again, this one was a gamble to see if its body compared in scale to another glue bomb donor of front & rear clips, and since they all line up good enough for jazz, this project will be headed where no LaMans car has gone before. ?

Cheap IMC GT40 Mark IV on eBay with free shipping. Sort of a fun metallic gold color. I initially thought the ebay photos were showing a red molded MPC kit with scratch-throughs down to the bare plastic, but it turns out the builder sprayed the gold over a pink-ish red primer coat. I hope it all dissolves fairly easily. This one really earns the word "glue" in gluebomb, the back wheel really was solidly in that position and didn't come off without a struggle. The fiddley suspension looks like it was a huge struggle for the builder who might have abandoned it at that point because not enough glue would hold it in place. In one of the other threads here about GT40s, somebody said you can never have enough of them, and since all I had was just a pair of 64th scale die casts, I needed this one. Well, maybe just the central body / interior section. The ultimate objective is to mash that section together with another ironically gold-colored glue bomb I snagged and have a complete car to mess with my fellow modeler's minds, where they might say "that isn't like any LeMans car I've seen. But the front & back clips look really familiar ……"

Not being an expert in old Revell kits, is that same engine shared in the Eddie Hill Pennzoil dragster? Way back in the late 1990s, I committed the crime of lopping one entire cylinder out of it. Put the cuffs on me.

Never had any experience with one of those. It'll still run fine on the gas engine, right?

Well …., what happened here is you sent the 3rd party outfit a BMP file, and in a technical sense they sent you back a PDF file with a bitmap image in it. When you don't have a vector art program to view the artwork, you'll never see what it truly looks like. There's literally no reason at all to send you a PDF file other than to provide something that you could open up in Acrobat Reader to see what it will approximately look like, and Acrobat may have actually sharpened up as you zoomed in just for computer screen clarity, which doesn't really mean anything. What you needed was the vector file alone to send onto the decal printer. Back when I worked as a graphic artist at two places that created photo etched / cast metal decorative items / nameplates, the two kinds of file types that I hated to receive were BMPs, JPGs or TIFF photo files with their inherently unclear pixelated edges, and PDF files of corporate logos with their own inherently unclear pixelated images. Whenever I could, I urged our sales people to go back to their customers to demand that the artists they used share the original vector files for what they wanted us to reproduce, otherwise our place would have to create the vector files we needed at extra cost to our customers to ensure a super crisp product result. When our salesmen couldn't get our customers to deliver, we were often under a mandate to use the pixelated images as best we could to save time and expense on our part, and the results were always crumbly to some extent, depending on what extent we could put into sharpening the images via photo alteration - contrast /color adjustment, etc.

Not understanding your first bit, and maybe I'm out-of-date on my graphics knowledge, but vector files are vector files. Adobe Illustrator, CorelDRAW or some new variant that the industry has come up with lately that works identically. What is "vectorized PDF"? I've turned text pages with photos and graphics drawn in my CorelDRAW program into PDFs just so I could email them to people to read, but I'd assume that means an automatically loss in quality to some degree, which is irrelevant to somebody printing out my page (a resumé or whatever) on the other side of the country to share with other folks. When it comes to ALPS printing, you might have a very large and unfair generalization there. In the two or so decades I've heard about it, I don't think I've ever heard anyone say the quality of printing was substandard. What you might have in this instance is a single faulty printer and/or an operator who didn't run the machine correctly or did something to the artwork. If the file got degraded in some way, that would only make the problems worse.

Yes. Wow, forgot about your old video. At the 4:20 point as Pat Bibeau is talking, there's the late Tim Pentecost right nearby, followed by the late Augie Hiscano at the 4:32 point. The late Andy Kallen is at 41:52, all towering figures in GSL history.

Took me a while to remember what your combo sorta reminded me of -- the much less racy Kom-Pak 1:1 camping trailer with the upside down boat on the roof. Fun link about these here. Yours is much more nifty looking!

Really nice choice of color!

Always liked the looks of Super Constellations. Plus, if one big old piston engine sounds great, why not have 3 more of 'em?

If it weren't for the base and background sheet, we could be fooled into thinking these were photos of the 1:1 rig!