fantacmet

I look forward to this, I've ALWAYS wanted this kit. This is my FAVORITE Lambo ever created.

Looking good.

Thanks, I haven't had alot of time to work on this but I've spent some time with the engine figuring out what I wanted to do. Was thinking twin turbo but settled on a centrifugal supercharger. Still in the process of making the SC, but it's about done. The hardest part is going to be figuring out mounting the pulleys since I'm not doing the plastic belts. So all pulleys need to be securely mounted. I'll get it figured out though how I want to do it. The other part is, that intake may be low but it's still too tall to clear the hood. I haven't been able to find a cowl induction hood to fit so it will probably be hoodless. OOPS So I suppose it might help if I tossed up the photos of the engine...............

I've had that issue with some department store paints that used tow ork fine but don't now(they changed formulation, even krylon fusion does it), it seems to be etching the living BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH out of the plastic. It's a royal pain. (no that wasn't a British pun either). I've saved very few, and usually end up trashing them. I have a pair of wings for an airliner I'm going to find a way to fix because the rest of the kit is perfect. Glad to see you have gotten somewhere with it.

Hey your computer desk/workbench looks like mine. Except mine usually has some gun stuff on it too. Keep it coming.

The difficulty in the supercharger for me are the drive system for it. I'm trying to do a centrifigul style supercharger on a couple of kits right now, and making the pulley/belt system for it is a PITA.

I'm liking this, and I'm not even a Mustang fan.

Accurate shade of paint for the wheels wasn't too much of a concern since this doesn't replicate a stock Mini(well I suppose part of it does), but it's supposed to be someone's project. Someone who has more of a mindset to someone like me. I can't afford new wheels, but I can sure afford some paint to make them look different than everyone elses. You did give me an idea though. A nice shiny lip on the wheel rim. HRM................................... I WILL build one with a turbo at some point. It'll be a smaller Turbo for sure, there isn't exactly alot of space in there, and liek you said intake and exhaust are on the same side. The backside. Even tighter fit. Was thinking maybe of an injector setup with remote mounted TB's or remote mount the carbs with the turbo version. Thinking of sticking at least a type of CAI on this one. Up over the top of the valve cover and the filters right up front to get some good airflow right behind the grill. It would definitely be different. Of course on a future build I could do a supercharger and a front mounted radiator instead of a Turbo.

I was wondering how I was going to attach one of my scratch built centrifugal chargers to my engines, that tells me how right there.

So instead of offsetting the radiator, would could go with small twin radiators mounted differently or in a completely different location, or the single radiator down lower and at an angle, with the bottom tilted backwards. Like they do on alot of other racecars and some exotics. Food for thought and additional options to think about.

I'm SERIOUSLY considering making a little turbocharger for this car. LOL. I think I'm still early enough in the building process to do it. Since the turbo for this would be smaller and I don't have anything to build a turbo for a larger engine at this point but I do for something this tiny in size it might be a good project. Well I just checked and nope too far along, but that doesn't mean I can't do it on the next one. The though of adding a turbo, might just inspire me to buy another one.

I've thought about doing this with the 71 I have sitting here, body is already painted up. I will probably do it if I can find all the engine parts for the Lindberg ChargerCopcar. So I can get more modern engine in it, to go with the pro touring theme.

I have been a fanatic of the 720 for awhile, and owned one of the baddest 4x4 versions of them around(at least in my opinion). These were product from 80-86. 86 1/2 they introduced the hardbody, much like the 70 1/2 Camaro. This kit would represent an 81 or 82 model. MAYBE an 80. In 83 they changed the front suspension and diff. Also the tailights were different, as was the grill. The main difference between the 81/82 and the 80's is the By Nissan underneath the DATSUN name on the front fenders, and on this kit you can see that little rectangle where the by Nissan goes. The L20 and the NAPS, and the KA for that matter all used the same block. It was the front cover and heads that differed mostly, along with some bolt hole locations for the front cover and machining for the front cover mounting surface. The 720's all had the NAPS Z engines. This kit represents an L20. If you want to model the NAPS just change the head, and valve cover, and swap the intake to the other side. The exhaust is correct. I can post pics of my 1:1 later.

I've had to redo the paint since it got chipped, and family projects kind of took over for awhile, but I'm going to get back going on this again along with my Mad Max Interceptor. This week. After Tuesday.

I actually do agree with you, and you are right, if you have access to run this software, you have access to everything you need(unless you don't know the actual scale of a specific train scale which are labeled in letters and only if you don't have net access), however for those that have trouble using calculators(for whatever reasons), or are otherwise mathematically challenged, or have trouble doing conversions from one scale to another, that's one of the reasons I made this. The other main reason is, to prove to myself I can actually program something that won't crash. Sadly enough this is the first bit of software I've ever created, that did something useful, that didn't crash. I also wanted to contribute something since I don't have the ability to do any type of sculpting to create something for casting in resin. I just copy occasional kit parts for my own personal use, that aren't sold separately. Now if someone doesn't know how to use the digital calipers or ruler to go with it, well........................... Reality is, even though I have this software and it's on my computer, I just use the regular calculator. I failed my college algebra class. Twice. However interestingly enough I not only got a 4.0 in advanced physics I got 100% on everything from the midterm on. so I'm a bit of an oddball to say the least.

I like the wires, but maybe with those whitewalls. Seems more, "upscale" I guess you could say. Bit more refined looking, but it depends what look you are after. Well done building is more important than the styling, as styling is a matter of personal preference. There are alot of builds on here that are very well done with styling that I wouldn't come within 100 feet of it in real life. There are also builds with style that I love but are so horridly built, I want to toss my lunch. The ones that are horridly built though, they come here to get tips and to get better. Style is a matter of personal preference. Make it like you want it, and have a blast. If it torques your crank, fire it up. Etc.

I run it straight through an airbrush, other people brush it on.

While it's true you don't need to polish future or any other clear coat to make it shine, I do to ensure the thing is level. That way you get a finish that looks like it's wet rather than just a glossy finish. Also don't polish until AFTER the final coat of whatever is on, or your subsequent coats will have trouble sticking.

Well I use frog tape for delicate surface these days. In the area where you are painting(if it is indoors), maybe a bucket of DRI-Z-AIR? To help kill the humidity.AC works goof for that as well. I'm in the pacific northwest so we have lots of rain. You still have an adhesion problem though. What kind of condition is the paint in? How old is it? Could be your reducer is more sensitive to humidity, so a different one might be in order.

I use Frog Tape for Delicate Surface. VERY low adhesion(I can put it 1 hour old acrylic and it's ok), but as you can see the paintblock technology they talk about on the package works. Few more shots here. I put BMF under the paint then sanded it off on the emblems to get the chrome emblems. This is also as low as I have been able to get it up front. Lowering the rear is easy as pie, but trying to figure how to ge the front even lower, but I don't want to drag the suspension arms on the ground either.

Here we go, update, 1 mist and 1 wet coat of Testors customer laquer right out of the can. The emblems are going to br chrome, there is foil underneath that paint. I'm thinking of foiling the side trim. I don't want to do it in black, but it seems like I should do something with it. Opinions?

I've had that issue occasionally. These days I use Frog Tape for delicate surfaces. I have NEVER had it once bleed through, nor has it ever lifted paint, not even when heavily burnishined on acrylic paint that was airbrushed under half an hour prior.

Where'd you get the truck and the tires. Especially the tires. All I can ever find are the Aoshima Swamper TSL copies. Well DUH Maybe if I read the dang post I'd see about the tires. LOL The truck though would still be interesting.

Here are a few updated pics. I have the parts of the wheels painted I want painted. Going to use Micro Krystal Clear to glue them inside the tires. Have the BMF on and the small graphic stripes I decided to add. I'm leaving hte long front ones off as I feel it would detract from the look I am going for. However the rears neither detract nor add to it really, and there was a tiny scratch I couldn't fix without stripping so I covered it with a decal and you can't tell. Looks good with them on though. Still trying to decide what to do for my custome plates. Thinking 1BAD67. I used to make and sell license plates locally but that particular shop went under. So did another local shop. Leaves one left, they've been selling some obviously local stuff, so I might pick back up again.

That's 2 coats of Tamiya, right out of the can, and then 1 mist coata, followed by a wet coat about 2 minutes later followed by a second wet coat about 2-3 hours later of Testors One Coat Fiery Orange Lacquer. No sanding at all except for the body before the primer. I actually used the polishing kit up to about the 6000 grit mark.