John Goschke

Been without a camera for awhile so haven't been able to post much to my Workbench thread on this model, but after setting aside several other projects to focus on finishing it, I've been making slow and somewhat steady progress on my '59 Sunliner over the past few months. Body and interior (except for carpeting) are painted. All the little detail bits - windshield wipers, and radio aerial are in Alclad. Even remembered to drill a hole in the fender for the aerial BEFORE painting this time. Started foiling the trim on the painted dash, working across from the driver's side to the passenger's side. Burnishing the foil in place over the heater controls, then burnish more trim, then burnish over the clock... wait? What? Where's the the radio?! It should be between the heater controls and the clock! But it's not. How did I miss that?... It's not as if I haven't seen the dash already a bazillion times. Even scribing in the ash tray and glove box openings, and taking photos of the result! (See, no radio.)... Well, after sleeping on it, it looks like I'll be taking the foil off and cutting a slot in the dash so a radio from the Revell '59 Skyliner can be notched in! Wow, this hobby is fun! Here's the Workbench thread showing progress through last fall... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=79169&hl= The thread starts in 2013, though I actually started this thing in 2011!

Johan '56 DeSoto Fireflite with Modelhaus interior and windows.

Thanks. Going for a mild custom look. After I get back to that project, both fender ornaments will be gone.

Well, if we're showing projects, too, I got 'em... My old '59 Star Chief. Don't have that anymore.

The warping and distortion in the acetate promo and friction models is the most obvious symptom of the real problem: shrinkage. The distortion occurs as different sections of the model shrink at different rates depending on the thickness of the plastic in a given area. That is why certain models have characteristic distortions, such as the Johan '59 Caddy "smile." Even if they can be straightened somewhat, they will still be undersize. Also, they will return to their original distorted state over time (though paint and plating slow that process.) Acetate was used because of its gloss and opacity, which could more closely represent a painted surface. Cycolac replaced acetate on a widespead basis during production of the 1961 model year promos because it offered the same properties, without shrinking, though it can become brittle over time. There were a small number '55 T-bird promos molded in cycolac, but they are rarely seen.

Especially since somewhere in the neighborhood of 90% of Venturas and Catalinas came with that trans.

Wow. That's crazy! It looks like transparent orange plastic with embedded metalflake! What are you supposed to do with that? When they said "orange" I thought it'd be regular solid orange plastic (which would still need paint to look presentable.)

Very exciting! Thanks for posting, Tim! And thanks to Dave and Art for taking the time and effort to get this one right. As a former owner of a '61 Catalina two-door hardtop, and a modeler with a very critical eye, to me the body in this kit truly captures the elusive look of the original. Amazing!

I guess the question is "Which car sucks the least?" In which case it'd be "C," but only because it actually has an interesting engine, a gen-u-wine early Olds OHV V-8, and it looks like it would relatively easy to take all apart and properly finish. The fat radial whitewalls would have to go in the "sell this junk" pile. I think a general moratorium needs to be declaring across all segments of the car hobby on exaggerated patina finishes, especially with clear on them.

Yes, I am a model kit hoarder. At my current of completion I will need to survive to somewhere between 500-700 years old to finish everything (assuming I don't buy anything else.) Guess I better start eating healthier...

This one is well-conceived and well-executed. Also quite authentic to the late '40s, early '50s period. Doesn't deserve to be tarred with the same brush as those cartoon cars.

Outstanding! More photos, please!

Well, all these beautiful replica stock Virgil Exner fantasies are just too nice. So I'll be the first hoodlum to crash the party with this wild/mild custom Sport Fury...

Me and my Johan '59 DeSoto friction model in the driveway of my grandparents' house. New Castle, PA, summer of 1959.

Beautiful job once again, Steve!

Beautiful color combination! Very nice work.

Yeah, those buckles are fun to do aren't they! Looks great, Steve!

Great work, Mark! Especially getting that thin 'n bendy little front bumper covered in foil without wrinkles. Well done, sir! The mockup shots look terrific. It's all about the stance and the right wheel/tire combo – you nailed it!

Beautiful models and great photography!

Wonder if a good rubbing compound would take all that goofy lettering and junk off? Or maybe some lacquer thinner...

Yep, that'd be the way to do it. Shorten the chassis, hood, and fenders nine scale inches in front of the cowl. Standard Rambler was 108"wb, Ambassador was 117".

Really terrific job, Steve!

It was originally a Johan promo, never released by them as a kit in '59. Pretty sure it was available in styrene when X-EL/Johan reissued promos in the late '70s-early '80s. It's worth noting that while the model is detailed as a Classic wagon it is on the longer Ambassador wheelbase, where all the additional length is ahead of the cowl. When Juha did his '56 conversion he also shortened the front end of the car. Here's a photo of a Classic wagon that the kit is supposed to represent. Note how short the front end is. It's particularly evident behind the front wheel opening and the edge of the front door. Here's an Ambassador wagon. Notice the length of the front fenders, which is reflected in the kit.

Nice work, Ron!

It's a '58. Adjusted the photo to show more of the details. Not the first or the last wacky Plymouth drag car!