vamach1

Interesting that the MPC kit was magically transformed into an AMT kit. ? Of course Monogram Fox Mustangs were issued/revised under R/M and Revell branding so no surprise. I sure wish there were more Saleen versions and kits of the 2003/2004 Cobras and Mach1s.

Found this picture of the new Revell kit It will be nice to see an accurate 429 CJ engine in 1/25 scale.

Fantastic build. About how long did it take you?

I saw one at the Miami auto show today.

Yes that decalssheet would be nice to have in the US version too. The original owner of my Mach1 had it exported to France so it probably had European license plates but it has a MPH speedo and not kilometers as I think it was ordered by a US citizen that worked abroad until 1981 when the car same back to the USA and that’s when I purchased it after seeing a newpaper ad.

I’m on Step 36 of this kit and here are a few observations. I began applying many of the decals in the interior and engine bay and have come to the conclusion that yellow or red decals do not show up well on dark colors even though you might expect they would. The Autolite Sta-ful decal on the battery painted semi-gloss black was barely visible. I found a similar decal in white in my decals spare and applied it and then I found a red one which I applied over the white one. Not a perfect solution but at least it is more visible. I remember I had a resin cast Autolite battery but unfortunately it is too large compared to the one in the kit. The resin part has the battery hold down molded on top and the Autolite Sta-ful letters raised so they can be painted red. It’s too bad the resin battery is just too large. I cut the top radiator hose decals into two parts. If you do not you cut them apart the builder may not notice the letters RAD should be near the radiator and the Autolite while lettering and Ford part number are placed about the midpoint of the hose. I added some yellow OK decals from my decal spares (Fred Cady maybe) to the blue engine heads as the yellow would not show up on the valve covers very well. I realize this is way in the weeds but I guess I just notice these things. Assembly so far has been pretty straightforward so far. I’ll get some primer on the body and hopefully the color but with the humidity in Florida painting has been a challenge. I will skip replicating the body color factory “overspray” on the chassis underside - maybe on the next build. All in all this kit is excellent and it is going to make it very difficult to go back and build any of the AMT or MPC 71-73 Mustangs now that Revell has created this tooling that is better in every way and for about the same price.

Thanks for posting. Has it been 20 years since the Ford 100th anniversary? My son was almost three and daughter was six and my wife drove the Windstar and I drove the 72 Mach1 the 500+ miles each way. The variety of historic Ford on display, the icons of Ford raving history, the hundreds of cars there from owners all over all over the US and Canada and beyond was a once in a lifetime experience. I shot a lots of film (before I had a digital camera) but all the prints are in storage which I will have to dig out. Here is one picture of the Mach1 in front of the HQ with the 100th anniversary logos on the top of the building.

There is always some nice Boss 351’s at the Boss Nationals. The four day show in East Moline IL ended yesterday. I’ve seen some short videos and pictures but just exterior pictures. I’ll be going to the Mustang Club of America show September 9-10 in Melbourne which should have some nice restored examples.

Now this would be an interesting build to combine parts from a 70 Boss 302 and 71 Mach1 and 71 Boss 351 kits. No ram air parts needed.

With all the other “historical” inaccuracies in the movie I was not surprised in the short cuts taken in filming. It’s Hollywood so the goal is to make an exciting movie that appeals to non “car” viewers as well that would not notice or question things that can be easily researched that in reality were not as dramatic (e.g. 66 Daytona race results) when Miles and Ruby won by 8 laps over the other Shelby team and 11 laps over the H&M team despite Ford vs., Ferrari depicting a last turn pass with Miles winning by a few cars lengths.

With apologies to the car owner but there’s no vacuum hoses to the vacuum motors on the ram air flappers, the front fender molding and hood trim should be body color and not chrome, I’m not sure what the air cleaner lid is from, and 71 Mach1’s did not have a chrome front bumper or rear window louvers. There are many things the Marti report will not tell you that are not original if parts have been changed or replaced or added. I see what looks like a judge walking with a clipboard so if it’s a concours restored class it will lose some originality points.

I saw this Grabber Blue one at Carlisle PA All Ford show four years ago. https://www.motortrend.com/features/1902-most-original-1971-boss-351-in-the-world/ There’s a 73 Mustang convertible a Ford dealer stored that I think still has less than 100 miles.

Very nice build and the paint is great. You will be so much happier with the new Revell Bosss 351 kit and the Mach1 version which should be available next year.

Thanks. I saw this picture online and maybe I’ll do a barn find version after finishing the first build. It would be an interesting take on this fantastic kit.

I thought about posting this in the Work In Progress section but it’s just a bunch of painted parts at his point with no decals applied yet. Speaking of decals I have never seen a kit with such an extensive amount. There are decals for the valve covers, dash, coil, voltage regulator, door panels, dash, wheels, door locks, fan belts, VIN on the dash, etc, and of course the hood and lower body. If you are looking for a quick build with all the parts and decals this kit has it might take longer than usual. To no ones surprise I’ll go with the main body in Grabber Yellow and paint the lower body gloss black and hood semi-gloss black. To do this kit justice I am treating each part as a separate assembly and trying to use the combination of paint and decals to replicate the car as close to either one that was in a dealer showroom or was restored to a concours level.

Looks like you nailed it on the color. Nice build.

Those older Turbo kits must have set you back some change.

Great job and attention to detail on the grille and tail light panel. The kit has some very small decals and I wonder how many will really adhere (e.g. on the horse in the grille and gas cap).

Here is the Revelll grille I just finished painting and also the real panel. The headlights look “normal” and I did not try to replicate the stainless steel retaining ring. The tail lights are hard to detail given the size. The red clear piece glues in from behind. The rest of the tail light “assembly” is molded into the kit rear panel so the purist will try to paint the thin chrome trim around each “light” then the flat black and finally the outer chrome portion. The black portion on the outside of the outer chrome is a gasket which is not seen on the actual car. Get out those magnifying glasses. I found dry brushing gave me the best result.

Nice color and build. Reminds me of the first Cobra Shelby repainted a few times so the magazines and public would think there was more than one, and the Allen Grant one. https://bre2.net/who-built-the-first-cobra-and-where/ https://www.americanmusclecarmuseum.com/shelby-vehicles/285-1963-shelby-cobra-csx-2703-allen-grant-car.html

I recently moved but it was within town and “only” have three display cases for models but another four for hotwheels cars so packing and moving them was no fun. We moved two years ago and I packed all my built models and put them in my car and they survived the 1,000 trip for the most part. I packed all the larger diecasts as best I could but they have been in storage for two years. I get to do this all over again when we move (permanently I hope) to a house in Scottsdale AZ. You would think I would stop buying kits but it is an obsession as we know. I did set aside my box of 1/43 unbuilt kits so given the limited space I have know I will try to get some of those kits finished in the next year. Trying to match the Linden Green color is probably why I never tried to build the Targa Florio version. Good luck on your move.

Looking forward to seeing this one built.

You might be best to mix your own. I used Testors Model Masters Ford/GM engine blue but i is too dark so I may try the smaller bottles or just add gloss white until it gets lighter for the next build. The build I am working on I’m considering a test case to get an idea of how far I want to go with detailing. While were on the subject of the engine compartment - the underside of the hood should be body color except for the “molded in” ram air plenum which should be flat black as seen in the photo below.

If you turn the cake 180 degrees you are still the same age. Oh well I tried. Happy Birthday and wished for many more.

Found this nice example online of the factory color.