Straightliner59

I have to say--I prefer the dragster headers. It looks great, either way, though!

I guess I didn't ever post a photo of the stylus I used to create the beads in the door panels and tubs. This one has two ends of different sizes. I used the smaller of the two. Also shown are the other items I used--some only during the test phase. I have since learned that using a straight-edge to flatten the beads, along the edges really helps to clean up their appearance. When using a custom-cut "bead form", once the panel is formed, it can be flipped over, and the form fits perfectly in the outline, and can also be used to flatten the metal, right up to the bead. The Maid-O-Metal aluminum is very malleable. Once I'd cut the tops of the tubs, and was happy with the fit, I flattened them out again, and measured for the beads, and marked them. I then used the stylus, alongside a straightedge, and worked slowly, until I liked the appearance of the beads. All that was left, then, was to install them using contact cement, which I have found to be most reliable for gluing this stuff. I hope someone is able to get some use out of this! ?

Thank you, Mr. King! Since I posted this, I added these panels with rolled beads to the doors. I shaped a piece of .060" styrene to guide the same ball-ended stylus seen above. It worked really well! Lubricant on the stylus end definitely helps it function more smoothly. I had a can of Motor Kote spray sitting here, and have been using it.

Made these bead-rolled door panels for my Super Gas Vega...

Tinwork is nearing completion. I think that ocean of aluminum looks pretty cool! I will build a strip, with all the shifter mechanisms for the Lenco, and mount it to the kit's trans hump. I can then punch holes in the aluminum trans hump, and slip it down over the strip, so I can install the linkages and shifter handles. It should work out, pretty nicely. Comments critiques and questions are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!

I don't know what else to say, but, that is freaking gorgeous! The colors, and your use of them is fantastic. Very nicely done!

What a great look! Sits just right!

Thank you, Ian. That means a lot, sir! Thanks, Ray. I appreciate it! I figure that, if I'm going curbside, it had better be interesting! ? Thanks, Tim. I had tried some cement I have, in place of my standard contact cement. I thought I'd try it, because it's clear, and it's supposed to bond almost anything--except aluminum to plastic, apparently! I've since recemented them with contact cement. Problem solved!

Thanks, kindly!

It's 36ga., but I am unsure of the O.D. I agree regarding the DM wires. I think they're probably Teflon, as well--and they're very difficult to glue!

It's looking great, Ian.

Most of the tinwork is in. I'll probably use some black paint (maybe white--experiments are in order!?) and aluminum or chrome powder to hide some of the seams. I still need to work out the trans hump/driveline tube. Once that's sorted, I can work out, and on the shifter linkages. I'm thinking of painting it Mulsanne Blue, since I bought a can for the Chevelle, that I won't be using. Seems a shame to sully such a gorgeous color with garish, '80s graphics, but zeitgeist is as important as technical accuracy, in these projects! As always...and, thanks for looking!

I got it at Hobby Lobby. Michael's has it, too. There's probably something similar, on Ebay. It's handy stuff, to have around!

Thanks, Ron. I hope to have photos of the rest of the tin, installed, later tonight.

This stuff is about .007"(?). It's very soft while it can be used for body panels, etc., I prefer and recommend flashing for anything like bodies (especially cowls, and other pieces with compound curves), and firewalls, structural floors or other structural components. This stuff is called "Maid-O-Metal" Tooling Aluminum. It works beautifully for covering plastic panels with aluminum. I will post more photos with explanations, later, as I intended to explain this material a little more deeply, anyway... In the meantime, I think I can live with these! I am getting kind of excited about this project! I used a ball ended stylus/burnisher, because all I have are medium point pens, but I want to try one. Thanks, Ian!

Thanks, Rusty! It will get any rivets that are appropriate, for sure. I'll probably break down the trans/driveline tunnel into three sections, as well. I appreciate that, Ian. Bead-rolling this stuff is pretty tricky, just for the reasons you noted. I ended up using a ball-ended burnishing tool. It worked pretty well, but it kept wanting to seize in the aluminum. I may try some petroleum jelly, to see if that loosens it up a tad.

Thank you, Francis! You are correct. It will just feature details you'd see, if you were standing next to it, but nothing was opened up. I enjoy doing these because it challenges me to improve my finish work. It also helps me to look at possibilities for detailing, differently. I didn't give them a lot of consideration, until John MacGowan (Two-time GSL winner, and all-around great guy!) showed up at some show with a yellow Ferrari. His work was so beautiful, it inspired me to see them as more "serious" efforts. Timely that you mentioned the sheet work. I have an update, on just that! None of these panels are cemented into place, yet. I am quite happy, with them. The wheel tub that is sitting alone is a test mule for the bead-rolling on those that are in the car. I will do some further work to that end, to the door and interior panels as well. The rollcage will be scratchbuilt, perhaps from brass--I haven't decided, just yet. As always, comments are welcomed. Thanks for looking!

You are so right about the smiles, Francis! There is just something special about this engine that I can't put my finger on, but, it's there!

I love that place! I really miss "The Dungeon". It's such a throwback to the shops we remember from "back in the day", only with even newer and better stuff! And a lot of that old stuff, too. Anybody visiting the Twin Cities--Scale Model Supplies is a must-see!

Tim, that is truly the finest craftsmanship I have ever seen, on a 1/25 scale engine. Bravo, my friend!

Thanks, Bob! Appreciate it. I've been cutting aluminum sheet for the interior panels. I mis-bent the passenger side floor panel. I'll cut a new one. The drivetrain hump will be cut down, a bit, and the cover for the bellhousing fabbed. The floor panels are aluminum flashing. The door panels, side panels, tubs and rear floor are/will be tooling aluminum, since they aren't structural, and have only flat bends, if that makes sense. Once I have everything cut and fitted, I'll add some bead-rolling to the tubs and door panels, using a burnishing tool and a paper pad. I plan to replace the gauge panel with flashing. I'll probably go with the Lenco, since the shifter mechanisms will add visual interest. Questions, comments and critiques are always welcome. Thanks for looking!

Excellent work, as always, "Shorty", or not!

It kinda' does look nasty! Thanks, Rick! I'm looking forward to watching your Monza come together. You're welcome to borrow, all you want. I'm giving 'em away for free!?

I got the decals on the tires. I'm happy with them! I swapped the Frontrunners for a set of the Moroso fronts from (I think) the Dobbertin Olds kit. I sanded the lettering from them, as well, and added the Revell decals. It helps to use a new scalpel (or X-Acto) blade to shave some of the "height" from the lettering, before sanding the sidewalls clean. Once I have cleaned and polished the sidewalls, I coat them with Future, to prevent silvering of the decals. Once the Future's dry, I apply the decals, using Micro Set and Micro Sol. I keep watch on them, adding setting solutions, as necessary. Once those have dried, I brush on a coat of Testors Acrylic Matte Clear coat--It's Model Master, so I am unsure if it's available in another form. When the clear has dried, I liberally apply shaved/crushed/ground pastels in black, dark brown, brown, tan, and pale yellow colors, with a stiff brush. I also rub them lightly into the chalks. The pastels tone down the white of the decals, and, in some instances, make it look as if the lettering paint has worn through/been rubbed off. The white lettering becomes dirty and looks more toned down, quickly, due to the fact that sportsman racers are often pitted in muddy and/or dusty areas, at many tracks. That said, here are a few photos of the newly-lettered tires. Questions, critiques and comments are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!

And a nice, new place, to work on them!