Jon Haigwood

Anybody carry aftermarket engine pulleys in large scale (1/16th) ?

Tip" Don't test out the lights by sticking the wires in a 110 wall outlet. Ask me how I know

My first thought was maybe switching them over to LED bulbs ? Ad keeps coming up on my FB page for mini bulbs and switches.

I started with the Bull Horn T with the thought to use the Uncertain T body. I did a bunch of modification to the frame to fit the new body. After reaching a point on doing the Uncertain T on another build in the future I decided to go back to the T Bucket body. In a (unsuccessful ) attempt to un-modify the frame I totally "Botched" it up. Does anyone make a T Bucket frame in 1/16th ? At this point scratch building may be my only choice. Thanks Jon

I seal the glass jars with a latex glove stretched over the top.

I bought a Hyper Tough compressor from Walmart (about $70} It didn't last to long, threw a rod. After doing some research I bought a California (about $159) so far it has been working good.

This is the one I use Goodwill $10. Only one temp but you can change it by the adjusting the height.

Some great looking pictures and good info. Thanks for posting. As of late I have ben toying with using some computer software. My first attempt was on a Salt Flats for a Rolling Bones tribute for a Rolling Bones tribute.

Most of the clogging problem I had was that they clogged inside the can. New nozzles wouldn't help. I ended up decanting and using them in a airbrush A tip for using dehydrator. never put a model in with any type of tape on it. It melts the adhesive into the paint.

Anybody tried the Chrome Powder ?

looks great, but I like to place mine in the correct firing order in the right rotation. But that is just my thing

are the right angle boots printed as part of the distributor ?

I don't use Rust-oleum unless I decant it. I have had to many cans clog up about half way thru them.

I had this problem once and discover the letting it dry in the dehydrator it heated up the tape and left the residue. I use Lime Wire and 3M 471 for the edges and Tamiya to cover the rest. Won't find them at Walmart. Nothing with tape goes in the dehydrator.

I am going to do some spoon trials with MCW , Createx Auto Borne sealer and some Duplicover (as mentioned above) primers and treat it like my regular process. I will steel wool the spoons first. I have never had this "chip out" problem before, only with MCW. I am hoping it is just needing better prep work.

Looking for the best way to remove MCW paint . I have tried the Purple Pond and it doesn't seem to touch it. The reason I need to remove it is that the primer doesn't stick to the plastic and if I use tape it pulls the paint off when I remove it even Bare-M-Foil will chip the paint off down to bare plastic. Not sure if I need to do more prep work or use a different primer ? I am using MCW primer.

Must be a California car. Needs a Reverb

I also read where you mount two blades in an Exacto knife put some thing between them as a spacer and cut the tape. On the two occasions I tried it I got curves instead of straight.

The narrowest good tape that I have found Lime Line at 1/16 that would be 1 1/2" to scale

Thanks for the link

Reminds me of those Honda Ridgelines. Half SUV and half Truck. Not very good as either. I call them a "Suck"

I am not a fan of "electric" Mustangs either

I always refer to them as a Magnum with a sorts roof

Digital form would be nice.