Jon Haigwood

As said shaking and smooth surface is the key.

Bridgetown closed down and is now a Pot shop. (This was one of my favorite stores) Speaking of SABA of which I am also a member. If your in town on the second Sunday of the month you could drop in on a meeting.

Stay away from downtown Portland, it's weird

I have been fighting with the paint on this Hemi Hydro boat for awhile. Trying to get some good edges on the blue sections. After several drownings in the "Pond". I ended up with using some old pinstripe tape that I have had laying around for some years. I start with Autoair Pearl White and then a coat of intercoat clear (Autoair 4030) , lay down the pinstripe tape and then another light coat of 4030. Then sprayed the Blue Pearl (also Autoair) and another light coat of 4030. Now after it dries (and I touch up where some blue slipped thru) it will be cleared then polished. The pinstripe tape leaves nice clean edges and no residue.

Where is the best place to get outside door handles for a 32 Ford ? Thanks Jon

I'm a builder not a collector , I build

You might try angling the blade back to help stay in the groove util you establish a deeper groove.

I tried this pen out by applying the mask and after it dried cutting a straight edge with a exacto knife (new blade) and it just ripped .

I had a tough time getting a nice paint edge using the Tamiya tape, even with putting a light coat of clear on to seal the edge.It still didn't come out clean. Tried some old pinstripe tape I had laying around. The auto kind that comes in three different widths. Pulled right off no residue and clean edge.

I thought using alcohol wipes but not sure if it would effect the paint.

Working on a Hemi Hydro and finished the paint work on the bottom of the hull. I put on some blue painters tape to protect the finish while I worked on the top. The tape left some residue on it. I use Testers High Gloss clear, what would work to remove the residue without harming the paint ? Thanks

Wifey says I spend too much time and too much money. That's why I have a Paypal account.

I don't name my models, only my 1:1 vehicles. Fleetwood motorhome named it "Mac", white Dodge 1500 named "Moby White" and the wifes van is called the "Grannymobile"

I tried that (twice) and the wire ripped thru the side of the boot before I could get it down to the distributor.

I will be using the R B Motion spark plugs. Maybe if I use something on the wire so they slide easier. I am using pre-wired distributors so I only can put the boots on one way, starting it into the large end first.

Any tips and/or tricks to using R B Motion Dist and Plug boots ? I tried running the wire thru them but they seem to rip thru before I get them in place. M plug wires are .018". About 24 gauge Thanks

One of the reasons I use the "price+shipping lowest first" search feature. High shipping just insures the seller they will get what the want no matter how low the winning bid is. Buyer Beware

The Starliner WB is quite a bit longer and would need the overall length shortened. The Revell setup I picked up on ebay looks like it will work. So far it looks like I will need to shorten the back a smidge and the modify the trans tunnel so the AMT interior tube will fit. There is probably more that it will need but I haven't started this build yet, just gathering the parts that I will need. Thanks

Hydrographics https://www.hydrographicfilmsupplies.com/

I always use a satin clear on my engines, drive train and suspension parts. Unless it is a showcar

Thanks, I figure it should be easier than trying to make the molded in exhaust disappear

Not sure if the Mercs were the same. YEARENGINEBLOCK AND CYLINDER HEADSAIR CLEANERVALVE COVERS1959223BlackRedRed1959292BlackRedRed1959332BlackGreenGreen1959352BlackBlue* Blue1960223BlackRedRed1960292BlackRedRed1960352BlackBlueBlue1960352HP BlackGold open-elementGold1961223BlackRedRed1961292BlackRedRed1961352BlackBlueBlue1961390BlackSilverSilver1961390 HPBlackGoldGold1961390 HP-6VBlackOval aluminumGold1962223BlackRedRed1962292BlackRedRed1962352BlackBlueBlue1962390BlackSilverSilver1962406-4VBlackGold open-elementGold1962406-6VBlackOval aluminumGold1963223BlackRedRed1963289BlackWhiteWhite1963352BlackBlueBlue1963390BlackGoldGold1963406-4VBlackGold open-elementGold1963406-6VBlackOval aluminumGold1963427-4VBlackChrome open-elementChrome "baldies"1963427-8VBlackOval aluminumChrome "baldies"1964223BlackRedRed1964289BlackRedRed1964352BlackBlueBlue1964390BlackGoldGold1964427-4VBlackChrome open-elementChrome "baldies"1964427-8VBlackOval aluminumChrome "baldies"1965240BlackRedRed1965289BlackWhiteWhite1965352BlackGoldGold1965390BlackGoldGold1965427-8VBlackOval aluminumChrome "pentroof"1965427 SOHC-4VBlackChrome open-elementCast aluminum1965427 SOHC-8VBlackOval aluminumCast aluminum1966240Blue**BlueBlue1966289BlueBlueBlue1966352BlueBlueBlue1966390BlueBlueBlue1966427-4VBlueChrome open-elementChrome "pentroof"1966427-8VBlueOval aluminumChrome "pentroof"1966427 SOHC-4VBlueChrome open-elementCast aluminum1966427 SOHC-8VBlueOval aluminumCast aluminum1966428BlueBlueBlue1967240BlueBlueBlue "PBF"***1967289BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1967390BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1967427-4VBlueBlueTall Chrome "PBF"1967427-8VBlueBlueTall Chrome "PBF"1967427 SOHC-4VBlueChrome open-elementCast aluminum1967427 SOHC-8VBlueOval aluminumCast aluminum1967428BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1968240BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1968302BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1968390BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1968427BlueBlue w/chrome lid TallChrome "PBF"1968428BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1969240Blue****BlueBlue "PBF"1969302BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1969351BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1969390BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1969429BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1970250BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1970302BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1970351BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1970390BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1970429BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1971302BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1971351BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1971390BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1971400BlueBlueBlue "PBF"1971429BlueBlueBlue "PBF" * The blue used on these engines is very similar to the lighter blue used on the late-'60s Ford engines. ** The blue used on 1966-1968 Ford engines is a darker blue than used on earlier Ford 352 valve covers. The correct color is TRW #630224 or Eastwood's "dark Ford blue." ***"PBF" indicates "Power by Ford" **** 1969-1974 Ford engines were a lighter blue than 1966-1968. The color is similar to the early 352 valve covers.

Thanks for the info. I just bought this on Ebay and will be using it on the AMT kit.

Would the Revell Fireball Roberts floor pan and frame work with the AMT Flashback without excessive modifications ?

Picked up a AMT 57 Hardtop "Flashback kit and discovered it had the exhaust molded in. Is there another 57 kit that has separate exhaust and maybe more detail. From what I can see the Fireball Roberts kit maybe better. I want to build a 60's custom. Thanks