StevenGuthmiller

Another consideration is that I believe that the "new" Round-2 '64 Galaxie kit is still a promo style kit with the hood molded in, so if you should decide to replace the body, be sure to save the old hood. Should you decide to build it with an engine, you'll want to cut out the hood, and use the original annual hood, which will have the backside detail, while the promo hood will not. Likewise, the Round-2 interior is also a promo style piece with the seats molded into the bucket, so you'll also probably want to use the interior pieces from the annual. If it were mine, I would cut the hood from a new body and use that body, along with most of the parts from the original kit. Steve

Now the "fad" color seems to be that nauseating bright green that you see on EVERYTHING these days. It looked good on a '70 'cuda, but seriously guys....... Please, take me back to the Brandywine days!!! ? Steve

Or you could do what I would do and take the easy way out. A new one with free shipping can be had on eBay for about $26.00. Steve

Looks as if you're almost there. As long as what's left is not too thick and obscuring detail, I'd give it a light sanding, a good scrubbing, and then prime and paint it. Either that or just start from scratch with one of the modern re-pops. Steve

Don’t know if this will help you or not, but MCW carries a ‘67 GM color called “Royal Plum” that might be close to what you’re after. Not exactly Black Cherry, but more of a very dark eggplant color. Steve

You don’t have to look too far to find enamel primer. Or, at least you didn’t used to have to. Steve

Sure, but that can happen with a free site as well. Just gotta take your chances. I think we all learned that with the PB disaster. Nothing is certain. Steve

I have a set of PE vents that will be installed on the kick panels later on in the assembly process. Steve

I remember a thread on this very board not too long ago where a guy messed up a Testors enamel paint job and then went on and on for days about how terrible the paint was and how it "HAD" to be "bad paint", and then proceeded to ask for, and then entirely ignore everyone's advice on airbrushing. I wonder what happened to that guy. It was sooooo much fun!! Steve

I don't know what the issue might be, but I've used Scale Finishes lacquer base coat over Duplicolor primer on numerous occasions. They're probably just trying to avoid complaints about incompatibility, even if it's not necessarily a problem. You know how people can get when they screw something up. They like to find someone other than themselves to blame. This way they can say "I told you so". I'll still be using the same primer I always use. Call me a risk taker! Steve

Both of these ‘57 Nomad kits are the reason why somebody needs to do a new tooling. ? Steve

Not free, but inexpensive. I like Fotki a lot. $24.00 a year. Steve

Too bad they just couldn’t have saved everyone else the trauma and did a “Thelma and Louise” at about 100 mph. As Forest would say, “stupid is as stupid does”. Sorry for all of the movie references. ? Steve

Exceptionally nice!! Steve

Thanks guys! Haven't gotten a lot accomplished over the past few days, but I did get into the shop for a few minutes this afternoon to scratch build a new shift boot. Steve

The MPC '68 Coronet R/T. Steve

Okay then. Apology accepted. ? Steve

? Sorry. I wasn’t aware that you owned stock in the company. I just thought that the OP might be interested in some information and actual alternatives that might produce results rather than just a series of posts suggesting essentially the same product with a dozen different labels on the bottle. My recommendation is always Super Clean, but if it doesn’t work, it would be a little counter productive of me to suggest Purple Power. Steve

Agreed. Removing the screw posts would have been a minimum requirement for me, but I likely would have replaced the entire bulkhead as well. Great work as usual Bob! Steve

A really great alternative is Alclad "Pale Burnt Metal". You can get very realistic looking results using the burnt metal as a base, give it a light shot here and there with some Alclad aluminum to break it up a little, and then a dirty wash to give it depth. Of course, it helps a great deal if you're starting with a Fireball carburetor! Steve

Just so that everyone knows, there is no "miracle" ingredient in all of these different cleaners/degreasers, ie Super Clean, Purple Power, Simple Green, Easy Off, and the above mentioned Dawn Power Dissolver. They all contain the exact same active ingredient, which is "Sodium Hydroxide" (also known as caustic soda, or lye) The only real difference being the concentration of the active ingredient. Basically, if Super Clean doesn't work for the job at hand, none of the others are likely to do any better. Personally, I wouldn't waste my money on purchasing a bunch of products that are essentially the same if one isn't doing the job for you. At this point Francisco, If it were mine, I would get some Testors ELO to finish removing the remainder of the paint. I personally have not had the need to resort to using ELO myself, but know a few guys that say it will basically remove anything, and I have no reason to believe that they would steer me wrong. Steve

Okay. I was just going to suggest removing the front screw posts, but I’m sure that would have been on your radar were you doing a detailed engine compartment. Steve

I just stumbled across this build today. (I don't spend much time in the truck section) Some excellent work going on here Bob! I didn't read the text of every post, so I don't know for sure, but are you planning on a full engine compartment on this one? Steve

I suppose that I should have been more clear. Yes, I realize that there are processes that are available that mimic chrome, but as you stated, the "good" ones are prohibitively expensive, especially as it applies to our hobby. True metalizing chrome kits, such as PChrome use chemical reactions to apply a thin layer silver nitrate which more closely mimics the properties of a metalized surface, but even a small "artist starter kit" will run you somewhere in the neighborhood of $400.00 to $600.00. I think that we can probably agree that prices such as this will be prohibitive for most casual modelers. The alternatives, (which I was referring to) are basically paints and inks, and in my opinion, are a relatively poor substitute for "real chrome". While some of these products may do a "good enough" job for some, the durability is a major issue, especially with products such as Molotow, which is extremely fragile when compared to a "plated" finish, or even a "chrome paint", which might be tougher, but do a largely mediocre job of simulating chrome. My point being that in order for these spray can and airbrush finishes to do an acceptable job of impersonating chrome, more technology is going to be required to integrate the durability and high reflectivity of true chrome. Steve

I agree that re-plating has almost become obsolete, but it surely is not because the paints or inks are better. Far from it. It’s because finding anyone to re-plate is becoming more and more difficult. As far as I can see at this moment, “chrome” paints are never going to rival the reflectivity or durability of real chrome parts. Or, at the very least, chrome paint technology is going to have to make considerable advances to get to that level. Steve