StevenGuthmiller

As I said, there's no such thing as a "trash" kit in my opinion. They are what you make of them. I understand the desire to want something that puts itself together straight from the box, But I believe that when you limit yourself thusly, your restricting yourself from a whole world of really interesting subjects. I personally don't care in the least what the kit looks like in the box. It's what "You" can make it look like sitting on the shelf that matters. Steve

It’s all about interests and expectations. just from my perspective, I wouldn’t give 2 cents for a Tamiya kit. That says nothing about quality, but everything about subject matter. The subject has to interest me, or I have no interest in building it. So, I’ll spend some money on a kit if it will hold my interest, even if it is subpar. I can make it what ever I want to make it. That decision is mine to make. Just my thoughts. Steve

My Johan ‘62 300-H is still one of my absolute favorites, and one of my most treasured models, even though it just kind of fell into my lap. ? Steve

I’m afraid your right. unfortunately, I think we’re going to have to settle for black, white, red, maybe a shade of dark blue, and four different shades of metallic gray for the foreseeable future. Steve

Maybe you’re right, but “speaking up” only works when you do it with your wallet........along with a couple million other people. Steve

It’s not going to change my habits at all. As you said, it’s still a heck of a lot cheaper than a new fishing boat, or green fees every weekend. Most of my neighbors have spent more on snowmobiles and ATVs in the past few years than I’ll spend in a lifetime of modeling. Steve

Just to eliminate any confusion, 1966 Cadillac, Code #26 "Nocturne Blue", GM code WA3503, Ditzler PPG code 13149, Dupont code 4718L, 181-97687........all the same color. By the way, here is a '66 Deville in Nocturne Blue with a white interior. Steve

Scale Finishes is my "go to" whenever I'm looking for an unusual color. They have just about everything. MCW has superior paint in my opinion, but there are a lot of holes in their inventory. I had to use Scale Finishes for the "Sunfire Red" for my '64 Grand Prix, and "Cinnamon Bronze" for my '68 442, because MCW didn't carry either without a special order. Don't get me wrong, Scale Finishes paint is good stuff. I just like the scale of the metallics in MCW better. That said, as Joe stated, Scale Finishes will almost always have what you're looking for. Steve

Funny, but the same phenomenon is evident on the Lindberg '64 Dodge kits. Steve

Nice!! Love the "Knock your eyeballs out" red!! Steve

Steve

This is one that I’ve never had, although I would have liked to. I suppose I never really pursued one because it was so close in form and appearance to the Johan ‘62 Chrysler 300-H convertible. I have never been particularly concerned with particular models of an automobile, but more so just any example of a year and make. In the same vein as the Johan ‘61 Chrysler, I would have rather seen a ‘61 Chrysler 300-G, but the New Yorker was just as good in my mind. That said, although not a common sight, I’ve seen a few of these Revell ‘62 Newports built, most of them not particularly memorable, but this one is exceptionally well done! Nice job Tim! ? Steve

Very nice! I really wish that Johan/MPC/AMT would have continued some full sized Dodges, Buicks, Oldsmobiles, Mercurys, after 1965/66. Steve

It’s not just Testors fellas. We’re just going to have to suck it up and get used to it. Either that or go back to assembling them without paint like we did when we were kids. Just checked the Scale Finishes website, and their prices on a 2oz. jar of paint has increased from $9.99, to $12.99. No changes at MCW at the moment, but I expect it’s on the way. But, with the amount of time and expense that I generally put into a project, I doubt that a few dollars increase here and there is going to stop me. I’m going to continue building, and I’m not going to change the way that I do it. Steve

I'm coming around to this train of thought more and more as I progress in my modeling career. I have been guilty of tinting my panel lines too darkly in the past, often using a darker shade of body color, which once applied to the recess of the panel line, can still appear too dark. Going forward, my new plan of attack is going to be just to deeply scribe the panel lines, almost to the point of going all of the way through the body. This may not work as well with some of the "thin skinned" modern kits, but it appears to work exceptionally well on older kits with thicker plastic. Using this technique mimics a more realistic panel line by recreating something more similar to a real car's panel line, which is manifested by nothing more than depth. I recently had the importunity to test this technique, (which by the way, has been used for a long time by many modelers) on my most recent '68 Coronet build, and I was very pleased with the result. From now on, I'll be using this approach whenever possible. I've already begun "mining" the panel lines on my current '64 Pontiac Bonneville project. I am hopeful that it will be as satisfactory to me as the Coronet was. Steve

A photo of the real deal. Steve

Yup, I absolutely knew of the existence of "Dubonnet". I wasn't able to find the color when I built my '61 New Yorker, so I tried mixing some MCW lacquers to see if I could get somewhere close. The result was not as bright, but I believe that I got somewhere in the neighborhood. Steve

It's a pretty simple thing. If you don't like the price, don't buy it. It's a completely useless and futile exercise to go through the contortions of trying to exact blame on someone. It won't change a thing. Steve

Formulas are often changed to conform with environmental standards, which as a general rule, translates to an excrement product. Steve

I still have some Testors, and will use it until it’s gone, but aside from that, there’s no reason to continue using a product that even the company that produces it has no respect for. I don’t know why they don’t just ditch the whole line now and get it over with, rather than dragging it out and giving it’s faithful false hope. Steve

It's easy for me. I use Duplicolor , MCW and Scale Finishes. Steve

Well, that clinches it. Now I have an excuse to never buy anything from Rustoleum again. Like I needed an excuse not to buy the garbage anyway. ? Steve

Absolutely. I routinely use flat enamels to paint some assemblies, such as engines, and then use clear gloss to add the desired level of shine. Steve

Beautiful!! Couldn't have gotten a better finish on that! Steve

I thank you all fellas. Just thought that it might be nice to post a few better shots. Steve