StevenGuthmiller

I didn't submit anything. Apparently someone else submitted the photos. Steve

I couldn't say, but there's no indication that would happen. I don't subscribe to the magazine, so they don't know me from Adam. Steve

Yes, I believe your ‘57 was mentioned in Geoff’s build thread. Steve

Thanks folks. I have to say that it's kind of cool seeing some of your projects in print, and something that I never would have expected, or even dreamed of, just a few years ago. And I need to thank those of you that have brought these developments to my attention. Without you I wouldn't have known about any of them. Steve

You might want to talk to Geoff Brown (GeeBee) Apparently he's able to get BMF and he's in England. Steve

I agree. From the photo I'm seeing above, I think that your fear of ending up with a silver patch instead of a crisp script are more likely than not. Here is a photo of the same model that I painted some years ago using my version of this technique. One misconception that people sometimes have is that every technique works the same with other techniques regardless of the materials used, but that is absolutely not the case. Often a particular trick will not work well, if at all, depending on the materials or application of the technique. I don't want to tell you it won't work, and it may work well enough for you, but sometimes adjustments have to be made to get the best results that you possibly can. In this case, I think your foil is too thick and not adhering to the script as closely as it should, and depending on the paint that you are using, there's a fair possibility that you're not going to be happy with the end result. Another warning is that when sanding and polishing the paint from the script rather than using a solvent, you need to be extremely careful not to go too far. It's relatively easy to sand through the foil back down to the plastic. By the way, this technique is perfectly applicable to aerosol paints. This '60 Mercury was done exactly as I described using Duplicolor paints right out of the spray can. Steve

Thank you Lee. I have to be honest and say that it was a complete surprise to me that would have remained unknown to me if I had not been notified of the fact by Tim Boyd. I do not subscribe to the magazine and have not seen the photos, but I suppose that I should obtain a copy just for posterity. ? I suppose you could say it’s been a good month for me as not only did the Galaxie make the pages of FSM, but my ‘65 Fury made the cover of the latest MCM, and apparently my ‘68 Olds 442 will make an appearance in the next issue of MCM magazine as part of their NNL North coverage as well. I’m humbled and honored by all of this recent recognition! Steve

Yup. Sometimes you need to work out the best practice for yourself depending on the products that you’re using. All that we can do is offer you our tried and true methods that have been formulated by us over many years and through many trials. Steve

That’s only true if you’re using thick paint and laying it on heavy. I use automotive lacquers and will consistently have 5 coats of primer and as many as 5 coats of color before any foil goes over the script whatsoever. If you take a look at my most recent ‘64 Pontiac Grand Prix build, you won’t find a finer script anywhere than the “Grand Prix” scripts on the front quarter panels, yet they were done exactly as I described. I have to say that problems with detail hide can be avoided completely with good paint products and application techniques. Steve

My advice would be to use BMF. And in any case, it will be much easier to apply the foil right before your final color coat. It’s a lot easier to remove one coat of paint from the foiled script than multiple coats. Steve

If I had to pick just one, It would no doubt be my rarest and most valuable kit, as well as one of my favorite models in my collection. Steve

Thanks much Tim. I suppose that I’ll have to pick up a copy of this one as well. ? Steve

By the way Tim, is this the issue?

Thank you for that information Tim. The appearance in FSM magazine is news to me. My ‘65 Fury is apparently gracing the cover of the latest issue of MCM magazine, and it’s my understanding that my ‘68 Olds 442 will be included in the NNL coverage in the next issue, so interesting news has been coming along quite frequently as of late. Steve

I think you all know my opinion.? I don’t think it’s possible to do a better job on scripts than using the “fup” technique, with the exception of using PE parts. The technique is very sound. Execution of the technique is where the problems arise. Steve

Another example where PayPal comes into play. Steve

Apparently the same primers that I am using. I don’t think I’ve ever spent less than $9.00 or $10.00 on a can of Duplicolor, and the price continues to rise. Steve

Which one are you using? Steve

Then I suppose that the LeMans might also have it......but I don't. Steve

I now use mostly Duplicolor "Primer/Sealer". Steve

Personally, I use Duplicolor primers, but you need to be cognisent that they are designed for automotive applications and are a "hotter" primer than hobby primers. But they have many pros as well. Steve

I can depend a lot on what type of paint you plan on using. You'll get a lot of responses suggesting Tamiya primer, which is a good, safe alternative for most circumstances. Steve

By the way, if anyone is in need of a pair of stock grille halves for the MPC '69 Bonneville, I have a set. Steve

Absolutely! Every technique that I use has been picked up from someone else. I very rarely come up with a completely unique technique myself that hasn't been applied by somebody before me. Although I will often tweak those ideas a bit to suit my own purposes and style. I also agree with treating each sub-assembly as a separate model. I originally started using this idea by separating the body, chassis, interior and engine into 4 individual projects. As time has progressed, that has broken down into many more separate "models". Now I will often apply that thought into looking at a dashboard or intake assembly as an individual project. Steve

I don't believe so? My AMT '64 Tempest/LeMans has the console detail molded into the tub. No separate chrome piece. Maybe the Monogram '64 GTO? Steve