StevenGuthmiller

My point was, if you are shying away from subject matter that was initially produced 40 or 50 years ago, and "substandard" by today's specifications, these models are not going to make you happy when you open the box, just like the Duke's Charger pictured above. The OP was wondering why recently issued kits can vary so much in detail level. We were all describing why this is so, and I was just pointing out that if highly detailed kits are what you are striving for, these old "annual style" kits are exactly the sort of disappointment that he is trying to avoid. I think both Snake and Greg understand that I am not the type to shy away from this type of kit. My entire collection consists almost solely of these types of models, and I love re-working them. But if high detail without a lot of parts swapping and re-engineering is what you're after, you're not going to find it in these kits. Steve

It really doesn't surprise me. It was never developed for modeling purposes in the first place, and I always suspected that longevity might be an issue. Steve

This was my first thought. They don't get any more "super" than Petty, Dylan and Harrison! Steve

Let's put it this way. If we were limited to only more highly detailed kits initially produced within the past 25 years, a large majority of us would have stashes a fraction of the size that we have now. I suppose that would be fine for those in our hobby that only want to build models that require very little work to be able to produce a nicely detailed model regardless of subject, but I think I might speak for a fairly large segment of individuals within our hobby when I say that for many of us, subject matter is often vastly more important than detail level. Go take a look at your collection of kits and just remember that almost all of the full sized automobiles represented in that collection are very likely repops of kits that started life back when the 1:1 was actually produced. I suppose that it might be hard to get excited about an AMT 1970 Impala, '65 Ford Galaxie or '66 Buick Wildcat when they're so readily available today, but our views might change a bit if they didn't exist at all, which they wouldn't, and probably never would if we were relying on modern kit manufacturing to produce them. They might not be all that they're cracked up to be when placed next to one of the more modern tooled kits, but when given the choice of a more simply molded model versus none at all for a large portion of what we have available, I'll take a simple kit every time. I guess that I would echo what some others have already said by repeating that if the engineering of the kit is what's more important to you over subject matter David, simply pose the question to the board and most any of us will be able to give you a general idea of what you're in for before you buy the kit. You'll likely be happy with a kit like the '68 Charger pictured above, but don't plan on building a '63 Ford Galaxie, '65 Pontiac Grand Prix or a '69 Plymouth Barracuda. Steve

I might just take the easy way out being as the Coronet has pretty good bezels cast into the body already and just drill out the centers, foil the bezel and replace the lenses. That will save me from having to make the bezels. Steve

Thanks guys!! Steve

Very nice idea, and very good execution. I'm considering something similar for my current '68 Coronet project. I'll probably steal this! If I may, just be certain that your lens doesn't fit to tight so as to allow for the thickness of the paint. You really don't want to have to re-drill the holes in the body after all of the paint work is finished. Steve

While we were on our annual anniversary weekend respite, my wife insisted upon purchasing a pair of display cases for me as an anniversary gift. I'm sure mainly because she was tired of seeing stacks of plastic cased models sitting on the family room floor. She wanted antique furniture, and I wanted display cases, so we both got what we wanted. There is room for the addition of up to 3 more shelves in the table top unit, and I will likely figure out adjustments in the floor unit to raise the models up higher for easier viewing with the doors closed. I'll also very likely add some lighting to both cabinets as well. Steve

Absolutely not!! A good portion of WD-40's formulation is mineral oil which works great for removing things like stickers and tape residue. Been using it for things like that for years! Just be aware that yes, it is a petroleum oil based product and you don't want to try painting, foiling or decals over it without thoroughly washing the item clean of the oils after using. Some folk's concern, and in my opinion the real "urban legend" is that somehow, this is some really insidious stuff that cannot be removed once applied and floats through the air like some plastic seeking virus looking for a model paint job to destroy. Personally, I think that's a lot of hooey. I've been using it for many many years without a single poor reaction that I can think of. It's just another product that needs to be respected for what it is and handled as such. Steve

I think that we can all take solace in the fact that this guy will very likely not be in business much longer. With any luck at all, maybe an actually "responsible" individual will pick up the mantle and run the operation the way that it was back when Bob Dahl ran it. Steve

I get grief from some folks about this all of the time, but I use WD-40 to remove tape and foil residues. Yeah, I know........but before I get the usual gasps of horror from some of you, I do it all of the time and then just follow it up with a thorough washing with a good grease cutting dish detergent. Never have any issues with it and it works like a dream and won't damage the paint. At least not the paint that I use. Steve

Wow!! That's just sweet! Really terrific work right there! Steve

!!!! Isn't that the truth!! Steve

Thanks Craig. But part of the fun of building for me is working through these kinds of issues. Even though it can be trying at times, it's also enjoyable and gives me a sense of accomplishment. I have to get something out of this hobby I guess. Steve

I'm a little confused by the Hart's parts photo of that interior. The description says non convertible, yet the photo clearly depicts a convertible tub with the top mechanism wells and full arm rests. A true non convertible interior would have the same design of panel as the front with small arm rests. Steve Oops! My mistake. It says "non console". (all I can see on my screen on the website is "Non-Con") It's still a convertible tub.

I'm sure it is. Unfortunately for me, it's a very intricate design that's not going to be easy to duplicate. Steve

That's sweet! The mod top makes the model, and I'm always up for unusual color choices. Terrific work!! Steve

Great looking Desoto Mark!! Love that seat upholstery! Steve

Yeah, I know Bill, but I don't see any way to make it that fine. Hopefully by the time the paint is applied, it will look close. Even the original panels in the MPC kit are nowhere near that fine. Steve

This is the general direction that I'm headed. Steve

Thank you Rob. The more I look at these door cards and what it's going to take to get the rear to match the front, the more I realize that it's going to take really drastic measures to do it. I've pretty much decided that almost the entire door card is going to have to be scratch built! This is pretty much all that I'm saving from the original door panel. I'm only keeping this to help with positioning of the dash board, and the "Coronet" badging on the upper door portion. Everything else is going to have to be made. Steve

I just heat the sprue until it gets soft and sags and then pull on the ends with even pressure. Slowly for thicker pieces, and more quickly for thinner. Steve

Hardly Al. Keep watching. I'm afraid that after looking at what it's going to take to get these door cards to look right, things are going to get ugly! Steve

The next order of business was to eliminate those big and bulky grille backing plates. This is something I wish that I had done on my '69. They do nothing for the appearance under the hood, and they will just be a problem later when it's time to add head light buckets. I've also been mulling over the options for continuing the door panel pattern into the rear seat area once the convertible top wells have been removed. I thought about casting the finely fluted part of the front door panel to be used in the rear, but I wasn't confident on that one, so I decided to make completely new panels to be added once the old portion was cut out and removed. This way I can replace all of that detail through out the entire interior so it is all even. I made this panel by simply gluing lengths of very thinly stretched sprue to a piece of sheet plastic. Now I can cut out pieces of this panel to the size and shape desired to be added to the door panels as needed. This is enough for one side, so another will need to be constructed. Steve

Sorry Snake, but I don't take well to personal attacks over an off the cuff joke, but I'll withdraw and let him continue to pontificate if he wishes. Steve