landman

Measured, divided and marked. That was the easy part. The letters are about the same size as the point of the knife. Good thing there are three MUSTANG on the fret , I was on the third G by the time the dust settled. Couldn't afford anymore Tiddely-Winks with FORD, there is only one set. The result-:so-so. But in all fairness and to ease my conscience, they look better with the naked eye than blown up like this. The first strip of masking tape (old) left a gooey strip on the paint. Will Goo-Gone remove that without damaging the paint? Oh to be neat like some of the folks on this forum!!!!!

Thanks Nitro Neil for the lead on the Olds grille. I'd like to replicate this one, that I owned in the past. Not sure where to start. That Chevy body may be a start.

Simply gorgeous.

Finished the windshield, wipers and wheel opening moldings. Noticed I had forgotten the one at the front of the hood when I took the pictures. Did it too.

Thanks guys. Hopefully the rest of the windshield tonight. Then I have to address the taillights and the wheel opening trim.

Figured the paint is dry enough to manipulate so took a break from the truck and started the battle with the BMF. Even managed to break a vent window post, which I had to repair. Please don't laugh.

Added the rest of the goodies to the engine and tried it out under the body. I think this is way bigger than the 391 that is supposed to be there but I think we can make it work. Oops! Forgot this one.

Ventured into uncharted territory. I was going to assemble the grille and fenders to the body but then I couldn't open up the hood panels. So I cut them first, then put everything back together with tape and was able to locate and tack the fenders. With the fenders in place, it should be feasible to paint the grille separately and attach it later.

Painted the backing plates, air chambers and assembled the wheels.

OK. Does purple Power work for that. I also heard of Simple Green. That Bleche White isn't available here.

I've noticed that masking tape doesn't adhere very well to resin. I like to use it to hold parts together for mocking up. Any cure for this? Ar alternatives? Thanks, Pat

Another thing I'd like to do before I get too far along is open up the hood somehow so we can see all this tubing on the engine. The Ford N600 opens like this: So it looks like the wire/tube type hinge might work. Never attempted one before. Not sure if this expensive resin body is the good place to start. Another, simpler (lazier) solution would be to add little tabs to the underside of the body and just set the hood on it. Lift off to open.

I think I figured out how I'll make the wheel set. Front wheel on the left. I separated the face from the rim of the styrene wheel & trimmed out the hub. The resin face will mount to the rim and the hub behind. Cut like that, it will bring the wheel out by about 1/16". I wonder if I should trim that flange off. As for the rears, on the right. I used the styrene hubs to center the drum before gluing it into the inner wheel. The resin outer wheel will mount to the outside of the inner wheel. The trick will be to make them concentric. Opinions and suggestions are welcome of course.

I always wanted to build a Foremost, using a Ford truck cab. Maybe I will now. Nice job on a neat and unique vehicle.

I have one of those half apart that I want to restore. I'll be sure to watch your thread to learn from the best. That Bentley is one of the best models I have ever seen.

Thanks guys. Something just crossed my mind. What am I going to use for windows?

Of course I put the wrong photo in there. Here goes.

Ben, I have no idea. It almost looks like it could be automatic.

While it will be a Ford, it won't be a Louisville. I kind of like these: The kit provides nice 5-Hole wheels but only the outside. So I dechromed the styrene ones and I will adapt them to the resin fronts. I also discovered that mounting tiny round parts in a pin vise makes it easier to sand flash And of course, I couldn't resist putting the engine in the frame...just to see. Couldn't help it.

I decided to start on this while I have to wait to go on with the other projects. Assembled the engine and added the fuel injection tubing. Then the fuel pump & filter piping And the air compressor piping

Well...3rd & final paint job. scuffed it with 1000 grit & shot it again. Next stop BMF & Lettering. Look at the positive, this is character building. In the bad old days I would probably have flung it at the wall. So I guess some things do improve with age. While I was pondering what to do with the Mustang, I built the Cat 1160 which will go in the race car hauler.

Coming from you Richard, that is definitely a compliment! Thank you.

It toned it down all right along with the "shine" around the seams. I wonder if the clear will cover all those differences or should I repaint the thing?

There are no words to describe something like this. This is beyond craftsmanship or even art. An absolute pleasure to watch. Now I wonder if he could come here and adjust my 1:1 1934 Chevy to run that smooth?

Looking back on the Marcos Cruz tutorial supplied by Scott, I found where I screwed up. This is my first time with resin and my first time with trying to deepen door opening lines. Marcos says to be careful not to "widen" the lines. Looking at them closely last night while trying to clean them up it is obvious that I got carried away with the scriber. Also perhaps I put too much pressure on it and chipped the material rather than peel it. Also, it think that if you did it "before" the last color coat with a light color like this, it might darken the recess just enough to accentuate the contrast. Chalk one up to experience.