Snake45

If you're worry about strength, you can fix it as Bill says and then back it up on the underside with "fauxberglass:"

You must be a glutton for punishment. I have that Lindberg F-94 and it's one of the worst model airplane kits I've ever seen. I've never owned their F-80 but it's of similar vintage; I've seen photos of built ones which kept me from ever buying it. I might or might not have the Winnie Mae in my collection, can't remember, but I know I've never built one. I have seen these built up into fairly nice models, though, so I'm not as down on that one, though I think I'd rather build the AMT kit of that airplane. Next time you get tempted to buy any of this old Lindberg stuff, ask me first. I can probably save you some money. BTW, I love old kits and retro/nostalgia modeling, and have actually built a few of the old Lindbergs, but some of them are just unredeemable wretched backbirths.

I've seen several of the Jadas from time to time but don't care for them. They seem to be too large for 1/24, have absurdly large wheels/tires, and often extended lower body sides. This is a shame because other parts of them look quite nice, and they're reasonably priced (at Walmart). I do own one Jada, a '64-'65 Falcon I bought absurdly cheap at a local toy swap meet. I thought it looked okay when I bought it, but when I got it home, sure enough, WAY too big to sit on a shelf with my other 1/24 cars.

Your question got me interested in trying to find a definitive answer. Was not able to, but for what it's worth, orange and white are the colors featured across the top of ButchLeal.com: http://www.butchleal.com/home.html Also, this pic is interesting, as it shows the body orange more red than the orange on the engine: https://www.cars-on-line.com/2016/jun-02.html It is a restored car, though, not original pics.

I wish I could find it. Nowhere near me has it, and I don't think they even list it online anymore.

Looking very, VERY good! Drive on! Did you ever get a chance to check your silicone mold of the hood?

Very nice! Looks like all I'd do to it is sand the tire treads and hit the headlight stems with white paint. I have diecast '70 Boss 302s in red, yellow, and Grabber Green. Two different makers and they're both pretty nice for being cheap ones.

Looks nice, Ewetwo! I have one of these in a dark red. I've never seen the Revell diecast, but I'm pretty happy with how this one looks on the shelf. One tip about these diecasts: While you have the body off, hit the back of the headlight "stem" with white paint. Not silver, not aluminum, WHITE. This makes the stem almost disappear and gets rid of much of the "googly-eyed" look of many diecasts. You can also improve the look of the Ford wheels on this one by hitting the low areas with a Flat Steel color. Welcome to diecasts!

Kewl! Were they really stuck, or did she just not know where the vacuum switch was? BTW, on the real '69 RS grille, the two most outboard rows in the grille aren't open, they're blanked off and black.

If you're going the the trouble of wiring it, you might want to paint it the right color. Looks like you have it the Pontiac Engine Blue introduced in 1966. The earlier engines had a light nonmetallic blue. If you don't want to repaint, just tell people "I put a '66 engine in it."

Interesting. I have both and they're both kinda semi-gloss and not that far apart in color. I'd LOVE to find a good flat aluminum.

The reason is I had a brainfart and left an important part out. It's SnakeACP45 etc etc etc.

I might be interested in the black '67 Corvette, depending on price. Email me at SnakeACP at aol dot com.

Cut your stripes where they cross the door lines, this hit them with a decal setting solution.

The AWB Falcon kit isn't THAT rare. I'll bet it would cost you less than a resin body and a Miss Deal.

Just email me at SnakeACP45 at AOL dot com.

There's an article about this artist in the new issue of Car Kulture Deluxe, with several pictures of his art. I was hoping he would explain the logic behind all the wires and junk hanging under his "cars," but, sadly, no. The mystery continues.

Fabulous, that's exactly what I need to know! Looks like the contours are close enough to work with. Thanks so much for the pics--I owe you one sometime!

Nice paint! What's the color?

If the '74 was a roadster, you can use a common MPC '75 reissue. Ollies just closed them out at $10 a pop. A coupe will be a bit harder to find. '73 Vettes of any kind--AMT or MPC, roadster or coupe--are fairly rare and spendy these days. If working from an old glue bomb, the MPC would be easier to work with as parts could be sourced from the aforementioned '75 Roadster kit. AMT parts of that vintage are MUCH harder to find. Took me several years to find a '73 hood and front bumper to restore one.

AMT AWB Falcon body on Revell Miss Deal chassis?

Two of the most troublefree kits I've ever built were the Monogram '70 Superbird and '70 GTX. The latter lives on as the Revell '70 Road Runner. Not sure about the status of the former, but either of these would be perfect "first builds" for someone with your interests. The Monogram/Revell '71 Cuda and '69 Dodge Superbee are pretty easy to get together, too.

Do we "contributors" get a new, corrected copy? Or at least a mention in the acknowlegments? Or something?

The AMT '55 Chev 2DS hood doesn't fit NOW. It's way too narrow, and rattles around in the opening. I might end up being better off using the Revell hood outright, or perhaps a kitbash mashup with the AMT hood, with some widening on the sides.

Well, I don't want to hack up a Revell '56 Del Ray body, as that kit's a little hard to find at the moment and who knows when/if it will be reissued again. So that's out. As far as grafting the AMT 2DS roof onto the Revell body, I'd have to go much farther down than the roof, as the hardtop/convertible doors and quarters are different from the 2DS. I'd have to go a third or halfway down onto the body, and then I might as well drop the cut line aft of the rear wheel openings and just take the whole lower quarters and trunk/rear panel too. Now I have to fight not only possible body width problems, but door length as well. (I'm removing the side trim, so at least I don't have THAT to worry about.) Not that it COULDN'T be done, but I'd think it would be a lot easier to either swap the whole front clip, or just the front inch or so of the front end. Here too, I'm taking off the front fender trim so that's not a problem. Not an option for this particular build. Definitely a stock steel front end. Think I'll keep my eye open for a Revell '55 glue bomb at the next local toy show in a couple weeks. Hmmmmmm....