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Snake45

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Everything posted by Snake45

  1. Wow, what an amazing finish! By coincidence, I am right now finishing up a '69 Charger 500 in nearly the same color with black tail stripe, and when I opened the thread the first pic gave me a strong sense of Deja Vu for a second or two!
  2. Thanks for posting. I have the snapper version of this kit I've been wanting to do for a while, but can't decide on a color. Seems like every one I ever saw in real life was bright red, including one owned by a former boss who turned out to be a world-class jerk, so I'm kinda off red for it. Thinking of a dark metallic gray of some sort.... At any rate, I'll be following yours for ideas.
  3. VERY interesting possibility. Is there anything period correct like this in a kit? I have no interest in scratching up such a setup, but if there's one in a kit I have...I think I have the old Revell Beretta, J2000 and Corvette Pro Streets around here somewhere. Would any of those had something suitable? Forgot to mention that this a glue bomb rebuild, so it's being done on the cheap. Probably not gonna BUY a kit just for this induction, but if there's something usable in a kit I already have, I'm golden! Thanks!
  4. GREAT idea! I have a couple of those things in the Snakepit. Will have to see if that setup will fit under the stock hood. Thanks!
  5. Both very cool. Are either of these available in a kit?
  6. Thanks for the encouragement. I'm liking it. Might be a good use for one of those Crower injectors in the old '69 Chevelle kits.
  7. Interesting possibility. I think I have some of those in Corvette kits. I'll keep it in mind.
  8. I'm looking to build a '72 Chevelle as a street-fighting "sleeper" set in the late '70s--early '80s era, in other words, pre-Pro Street (not tubbed). What's the most badass induction of that era that will fit under the stock cowl induction hood? (Remember, it's a sleeper.) So, no blowers, and no tunnel-rams sticking through the hood. Did anyone ever make 2x4 low-riser manifolds for Big Block Chevy? If so, what kit would have it? If not, what was the hottest low(ish) rise single 4-bbl manifold of the day? And what kit might have that? I haven't ruled out fuel injection, if I can find a setup that looks good. A little radical/impractical for the street, but this guy wants to make some serious horsepower without it showing....
  9. Different and interesting!
  10. I have a couple mint "keepers" in my stash, among them original annual AMT '66 Barracuda and Mustang HT/Convertible. But pretty much everything else I bought with the intent to BUILD it, and I intend to when the mood strikes me.
  11. Absolutely fabulous, and again, even more so because it's a rebuild. Only suggestion I could offer would be to cut your side stripe decals where they cross the door lines, but other than that...perfect! Can't wait to see what you'll do with some of those old Javelins.
  12. Very nice! I think I need to order one of these sets.
  13. Very clean, very nice! I've been wanting to shoot that color and call it '67 Tahoe Turquoise, and it looks like it's close enough that I can get away with it.
  14. Well, it is a whole community based on little plastic toy cars. (And a few metal ones too.)
  15. That's what I do. I scribe em deep, run black in there, then prime and paint as normal. Should paint not happen to get all the way into the groove, there's black in there, but it's mainly paint (like a real car). After that I do NOTHING with panel lines except clean the Wright's Silver Cream polish out of them with a toothbrush and warm running water.
  16. Very nice! Clean build, super-smooth paint, what's not to like?
  17. Very, VERY nice! I always enjoy seeing what others are doing with diecasts.
  18. Is it metallic or solid? If it's solid, I'd use Model Master FS 36231 Dark Gull Gray, which is the standard cockpit color for most US military airplanes since the '50s. I have used a LOT of the stuff. I even did my primered '68 Camaro street rat in it. You'd have to clear-coat it of course but sounds like you've got that surrounded. Anyway, it looks just about exactly like your picture.
  19. IMHO you don't need to sand raw plastic/putty/filler past #600--certainly not past #800--before primer. In my experience, #800 is the perfect grit to sand primer before color coats. That's if I think it needs sanding at all. This is pretty much the only thing I ever use #800 for. Now after color and/or clearcoating, that's when I break out the #1000, #1200, #1500, and #2000. I never use all four, but often use two--which two will depend on how smooth the paint is to start with. And then it's time for the Wright's Silver Cream polish. Remember, there is no one set way to do things that will work for everyone in every case. Every paint job is a law unto itself. Experience will teach you where you need to bend this technique in this direction, and twist that procedure back the other way. I do have a standard painting and polishing procedure, but it almost always gets tweaked along the way to fit some particular circumstance.
  20. Yeah, what THEY ^^^ said. Between them, they got it all. And it really is just that simple.
  21. That's not necessarily a deal breaker for me. I have several diecasts and a couple kits both that are in that 1/26-27 area.
  22. There was a car in that movie? All I remember is Phoebe Cates getting out of the pool....
  23. What he said. Outstanding work, all around!
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