Snake45

Wow, it really does look like a big Hot Wheel! Very cool!

If you're getting stress cracks, it means your polish has something in it that the plastic doesn't like--possibly naphtha or something similar. You can flex a piece of clear plastic until it cracks or breaks outright, but it won't get "stress cracks" unless some chemical is affecting it. This is why I stopped polishing with Brasso 30 or 40 years ago. I've never had stress cracks when polishing with Wright's. There are no chemicals in it. It's water-based.

That stupid cat...

No idea but that would be great for a mid-'60s Gasser or street fighter!

didn't build models...

Yup, I'll have to look for these next week. Thanks!

Oh yeah, now I remember. That was a longterm scratchbuilt project, wasn't it? I was hoping it was some sort of kit or diecast I'd overlooked. It's beautiful, BTW.

What's the car in primer in the background?

Absolutely fabulous, and even more so because you brought it back from the dead. As Simon Cowell says when someone turns in a particularly impressive performance, "THAT's how you do it!" As Ron said, the old JoHan is just flat-out superior to the AMT in almost every way. I WISH I had one of these. (Have several Road Runners, but no GTX.) Well done and model on!

Isn't refurbing fun? I like your stance. You've got a perfect late-'70s Street Freak vibe going here.

Thanks! I actually prefer the '15-'18 style, and Welly seems to do nice work at a good price point, so that gives me something to look for. I hope it doesn't have opening doors--that would complicate the conversion considerably.

I'm getting the urge to try to convert a late 4-door Charger into a proper 2-door. I think I want a 2011 or newer, with the scooped sides. Is there a 1/25-1/24 kit available? Only thing close I could find is a Revell kit that seems to be a generation earlier and not as good looking. Did I miss a later one while not paying attention? How about a relatively inexpensive diecast in 1/24 or thereabouts? Would be much harder to do the 2-door conversion on a diecast, but not impossible.

Very cool! I have one of these in the stash and have been wanting to build it for years. Looks like you're off to a good start but is your right vertical stabliizer leaning in just a little too far? Doesn't look like it matches the left one.

Very nice! I like the way you've got it sitting level, not nose-high. Good stance!

Very nice indeed! I built one of these about 25 years ago (along with their 911) and I wish all model cars were this troublefree and good looking when finished.

Very clean build!

I keep telling people that, but they just insist on spending big bucks on "special hobby" products that don't work any better. Ah shucks oh well.

Slusher, what kind of stencils are you looking for? What exactly are you trying to achieve?

Maybe they're building the Crane Museum and that's going to be the showpiece in the lobby. Did you ever think of THAT?

They've changed the name of the stuff again. Now it's "pledge revive it floor gloss" (yes, in all lower case.) You can see a picture of the "new improved" bottle here: http://www.network54.com/Forum/149674/thread/1517017992/last-1517021704/(View+All+Messages+In+This+Thread)

I've ordered twice from Diecast Wholesale with very pleasing results--fair pricing and FAST delivery. And most of the time they have a flat $10 shipping rate, so order a bunch of stuff to make it worthwhile. https://www.diecastmodelswholesale.com/

Oh, and just to clarify: The orange plastic isn't "bleeding through" your gold paint. It's just the base color that you've laid a somewhat translucent paint on, that's all. If you'd primed the body in white, or in black, you'd have ended up with two different colors, but no one would be talking about your primer "bleeding through."

Could be if you want to declare it so. But don't leave out the Monogram 1/8s. And didn't Lindberg do a few, too?

I've polished clear plastic with Trim nail sticks (Walmart hasn't had them for a few months, but they reappear sporadically) and with Wright's Silver Cream, a silver polish available in the house cleaning supplies section. It's water based and leaves no residue that would interfere with your painting. Been using the stuff for at least 20 years now on clear plastic.

Very nice. You are doing great work, and thanks for sharing it! I've made small parts and replacement areas like this using silicone gasket material and J-B Weld (I call it sili-cloning), but I'm sure your putty will work even better. As a matter of fact, I've bought a couple boxes of a similar product by Alumilite at Hobby Lobby but I haven't tried it yet. (But I should very soon--I need to use your technique to fill a hole in a rare '66 Corvette Big Block hood.) But I was pleased to learn of another product and another source in your tutorial. I'll get and try some of that stuff too. Thanks again!