Snake45

Gasser, do you happen to know the wheelbase of that car? I ask because I'm thinking of shortening a Double Dragster Fiat frame for a T Altered project.

I've done this on clear parts of decals that were sticking up or wouldn't lay down after application. Can be done with a sharp Xacto, an Optivisor, and a steady hand.

I've never seen any kit made anywhere in the world, at any price, that didn't have mold lines that had to be removed. Some are better than others, of course, but they all have them.

Guitarzan? Either that, or the George of the Jungle theme....

Finally!

Another thing you can do if you have a good body is pull a female mold of the desired area off it using silicone caulk, cut the damaged area out of the "bad" body, put the silicone mold right on the body you're repairing, and fill it from the back with epoxy. This is called "sili-cloning" and I've done it several times with good results.

While assembling my Revell Bullitt Mustang about two years ago, the steering wheel went missing--less than an hour after I painted it. It turned up about a year later in the door of the microwave oven, slightly mangled. Someday I'll try to unbend it and install it.

Even cheaper/easier, tissue paper soaked with CA. By tissue paper, I mean the kind used in balsa model airplanes or sometimes used in gift packages. I've done this when I needed a thin, TOUGH reinforcement for something. It works great and is very strong. "Poor man's fiberglass."

I wonder why they used a Pontiac wagon instead of an Olds? An Olds body would have at least had rear wheel openings that looked like they belonged in the same family....

I checked too (Testors website doesn't make it easy) and apparently they've dropped the two metallic browns. You might be able to ask here and someone can find some in a LHS--those colors were never big sellers, no doubt why they were dropped. If need be you can add one of their solid browns or even black to the Stop Light Red (which is still in the line, now even available in the little bottles) to get to your maroon. Yes you can mix a solid color and a metallic and the result will still have a great deal of flake showing. In fact, it might even be more in scale than the regular metallics. The pic you posted above of air conditioning is on a 327 small block. If you go that way, you'll have to piece together a proper '67 Vette smallblock but that shouldn't be that difficult. Both Revell kits have the big-block "stinger" hoods, so you'll need a standard hood. Modelhaus sells repros of the '65-'67 AMT smallblock hoods that could be adapted. But there's another out on that, too: For a period in the spring of 1967, the factory ran out of the standard hoods and ended up building some number of smallblock Corvettes with the Stinger hoods on them, so you can always say your model represents one of those oddball cars.

Oh, I knew that at one time but can't come up with it right now....Steeler's Wheel or somebody like that?

These two could start a new thread topic: Ever bought an album just because you were intrigued by the cover? That's how I got these.

Another good way to find stuff is to hold a flashlight at a low angle on the floor, so it casts a shadow. Done it many times.

Eight-track machine playing Half Moon Bay Drivin' in my Volks down on Hampstead Way...

I've invented tools just for that. Have also "erased" them by brushing with liquid cement. Have also just covered them up with aluminum tape. And I've also ignored them and just gotten on with my life.

That's about two minutes work carefully slicing it off with an Xacto. Have done it many times. Not a big deal.

Mark, thanks for those helpful details.

Thanks, glad to help. Here's a '69 4-4-2 painted with that MM Burgundy, a correct color for that year and make. As you can see, it looks quite a bit different from '67 Corvette Marlboro Maroon. Here's a '90s Vette painted with a 50-50 blend of MM Stop Light Red and Kiln Red. Not a perfect match for '67 Marlboro Maroon but prolly closer than the Burgundy. Here's a few pics of my Revell '67 painted with rattlecan Testor Mythic Maroon. The color's not far off but the paint itself is much too sparkly/flaky for factory paint. I was going for the Saddle interior on this one; the interior is some kind of Krylon satin paint, IIRC. Krylon does make a Saddle paint but I didn't have that at the time I built it. The wheels on this one are from the Coupe kit. As I said above, I think you can match Marlboro Maroon by mixing Stop Light Red and either Sable or Manganese Brown. The Manganese being darker, it would take less of that to get to the maroon. Hope this helps.

Glad you mentioned the wheels. Chevy Rally Wheels were introduced in 1967 and the center caps used that year were unique to 1967. They changed them for '68 and '69. The wheels you need can be found in the coupe version of the Revell Corvette '67 kit, and also in their '67 Chevelle SS. You shouldn't have any trouble coming up with a set of the latter here if you ask, as LOTS of guys have built that kit with nonstock wheels and there should be a lot of the stockers floating around. With your permission, I'll post a couple pics here to show some colors--I don't want to hijack your build thread. ETA: BTW, I just checked and I was wrong about the color. The '67 color was called Marlboro Maroon. Milano Maroon was a '65 and/or '66 color.

AMT and JoHan shared a few tools back in the day, and it looks like this was one (I wasn't aware of it before). I'd never heard of an AMT '70 4-4-2 until I bought one off eBay a couple years ago.

If you're going for factory stock, MM Burgundy isn't even close to any factory '67 Corvette color. It's a true burgundy, whereas the '67 Vette maroon--I think it was called Milano Maroon--was more of a brick or rusty maroon color. Your second photo above is a pretty good representation of this. I don't know what paint's on that car in the first pic. I don't know of any good match in model colors, but I don't think it would be hard to get a good match by mixing Stop Light Red and one or the other of the Model Master metallic browns (Sable or Manganese). That's what I'm going to do when I get around to building a maroon '67, anyway. BTW, couple years ago, just to get it off my workbench after more than a decade, I finished a Revell '67 Corvette in MM Mythic Maroon. It's a nice looking model but it isn't really close to a factory color. (I suppose it's not TOO far from the car in your first pic.) If you're not going for a factory stock look, then....never mind.

Back half looks like a '65 or '66 Pontiac wagon to me.

The hood is the kit hood to represent a stock steel hood. I think it's painted black on the underside but it might be primer or even blue, I forget. After building the engine, I measured carefully and cut the opening for the carbs. The bulge represents an aftermarket fiberglass bolt-on, but it's not attached, just sitting there. I hope to eventually come up with something that looks a bit more like "Grumpy's lump," and then will glue that on when I get it the way I want it.

Needing that much stuff, you might be better off just looking for a new kit. Fortunately, the Comet was one of the last JoHan kits produced/sold (along with the Scrambler, AMX, and '70 4-4-2) under the Testor name, and thus should be among the easiest JohHans to find/afford. You could also haunt eBay for a clean, restorable glue bomb. Good luck with your project and keep us posted on your progress.

Yeah, I like that too. The night he did it on Letterman, they brought in Waddy Wachtel too, and there was a shot of Waddy standing over with Letterman's regular two guitarists and bass guy and it looked like an antiaircraft battery! I wish that were on youtube. I probably have close to 60 versions of Werewolves. On of my favorites is from 1995 when Zevon was touring with an Irish Band called Something Happens. They featured a Hammond B3 organ and made Werewolves sound like a Three Dog Night song!