peteski

Excellent modeling. Even the convertible top looks like it is made of fabric.

The resin being discussed here is used in DLP (SLA) printers, and it is cured from liquid to solid with UV light (it is not a thermo-set resin that can be remelted like plastic used in filament printers).

Daniel, my reply was to your reply which I didn't find helpful at all. You are the 2nd person questioning my modeling credentials on this forum. I don't post WIPs, but you can see some of my modeling at my club's website: http://classicplastic.org/pete-w.html Photos of my models have also been published throughout the years in various modeling magazines (FineScale Modeler, Model Cars, and Scale Auto Contest Models). I hope that my modeling portfolio meets with your approval. Yes, I'm snarky because of the horse comment you made in your post. In my view, you resemble that comment more than I. I also found recent comment from Doug quite informative. Thanks Doug!

Excellent Idea Daniel! Why didn't I think of that instead of asking the forum's collective who might have used the stuff for their findings? I'll do my own experiment. I have been building plastic models for decades and I'm quite aware of the other (fragile) rub-on metallic powder solutions (like the old SnJ metallic powder). None of those were all that durable. From the more recent findings, Alsa Chrome seems like a good looking, and durable finish. Like you mentioned: if I want to find out how good the nail polish stuff is, I'll have to try it myself.

Well, I'm not looking for longevity of powdered graphite, but something that looks like chrome (for bumpers and trim), and that will get handled by human hands. As for fingernails, those get redone fairly often. But this is all just speculations - facts would be nice.

We have all these "miracle" chrome systems popping up on the forum recently, but nobody seems to have a handle on how durable they are (either in handling or longevity).

Go for it: not sure why you posted that video on magnetizing in a thread that is about workbench lighting.

Regardless of the camera type, only certain part of the photo will be in sharp focus. The range of distance on acceptable focus is called "depth of field". The smaller the aperture (numerically larger f-stop) of the lens is, the greater the depth of field. But very rarely you can get all the subjects in the photo in focus. If you want the entire photo to be in focus, you need to take a series of photos from the same vantage point, with each photo focusing at a different distance. From the closest to the camera, to the farthest object. Then you take all those photos and you "focus stack" them into a single photo which has everything in focus. Focus stacking can be a manual or automated process. Do a Google search for "focus stacking" and you will find several examples. I use Helicon Focus program.

A possible workaround is to split up the body into multiple parts, and print each part in a way that will result in sharpest visible details. Yes, we would have to return to the days of multi-piece bodies, but (since the design is done in CAD) at least the pieces would fit better than back in those days.

Steve, If you are talking about "Future" (or Pledge Floor Finish) it is *NOT* a floor polish. It has never been describes as "wax" or "polish". it is called "floor finish" because it is a water-based acrylic clear coating. Similar to other hobby water-based acrylic gloss clears. While I have not used it as a clear coat for a model car body, I have used it to improve the look if model's "glass" windows.

Shellac is alcohol-based,and can be thinner with full-strength alcohol. Denatured alcohol (Ethanol) should work well. Methanol also works well. Do a Google search for "shellac thinner". Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol will not work as well, and should be over 91% strength.

Here you go guys. From https://www.foodnetwork.com/how-to/packages/food-network-essentials/baking-powder-vs-baking-soda-whats-the-difference The Similarities Between Baking Soda and Baking Powder Baking soda and baking powder are both leaveners made from a chemical called sodium bicarbonate. When sodium bicarbonate is combined with an acid, it produces a gas (carbon dioxide, C02, the same gas we exhale when we’re breathing) that lifts cakes, cookies or other baked goodies while they're in the oven. As C02 is produced, the batter expands and rises and the heat in the oven causes the protein in the batter (often eggs) to become rigid, a scaffolding of sorts that holds the baked good up even after it cools. The Difference Between Baking Soda and Baking Powder Baking soda is pure sodium bicarbonate, with nothing else in that box. In order for it to produce the gas, it needs an acid added. Then it gets to work neutralizing the acid, and in the process, it produces C02. Think back to the baking soda volcano experiment in grade school: when your science teacher added acid, it bubbled up and overflowed. Buttermilk, yogurt, lemon juice or molasses are a few of the acids we use in baking to activate baking soda. For this reason, baking soda is used in recipes that require an acidic ingredient added. Baking powder is a combination of sodium bicarbonate and powdered acid (like cream of tartar). Because it already contains an acid, all it needs is moisture and heat added to activate it. It's typically used in recipes that don't call for an acidic ingredient added. Sodium Bicarbonate Is water soluble, will absorb moisture from ambient air, resulting in a liquid solution. I like to understand how the chemicals I use in my hobbies work. Both of the above chemicals are used in food production. There really isn't any need to use them for modeling tasks. Yes, baking soda has been used (and is still used by some on this forum) as CA glue accelerator. It will cause instant setting of the CA glue generating heat. If it is totally sealed within the glue it will not absorb moisture, but if some grains are not fully sealed (exposed to ambient air), they will eventually turn into liquid solution, and ooze out. There are CA accelerators specifically designed to safely set the CA glue. Why not use those? Baby Powder (talcum, corn starch, and perfume) can be used as a filler material, but corn starch can develop mold after long exposure to moisture. Better to use talcum powder without any additives. Microballons are better inert type of filler. Plastic filings also work well as a filler. Again,, understanding the properties of the materials used in our hobby will result in better and more durable models.

Very good Roger - I'm very happy to see good result using something I would not (and will not) consider using. I simply explained my reasoning for not wanting to even try using baking soda. Thinking in general seems to be in decline nowadays (in general, not you specifically). Get back to me in 10 years to let me know how that worked out. We can keep this going if you want.

I never encountered plastic mixing balls. I only have seen glass or metal ones. Plastic is rather ligth, so I can see how those are not very effective. I also like to add more than one ball into my paint jars.

I also saved bunch of those (and ones from other spray cans), but they are rather large to throw into a little square Testors bottle (if they would even fit through the neck), and even IMO too large for 1/2 or 1 oz. bottles. Smaller beads also get into the corners better to get the settled pigment stirred. Those UFOs however look very useful.

Fine, you just found a great flocking material. Nothing I'll ever use (for the reasons I specified above. It is not about not knowing, it is about using the knowledge about some substance and determining whether I should utilize it for a certain purpose. I think that is called "analytical thinking". This thread asked for recommendation, and I threw in my five cents. I have seen too many nasty failures of using water-soluble material for permanent tasks. Maybe your paint sealed the baking soda well enough so that the moisture will not get to it, but there is no reason for me to take that chance on model I spent lots of time building. Thanks, but no thanks.

I got burned by using steel balls (ball bearings) in paints (even ones which are not water-based). The balls rusted, tinting and ruining the paint. I have found glass beads in a craft store. Very inexpensive. I now use those instead. No more rust. I guess lead buck shoot would probably be good to use too.

Baking powder (and baking soda) are both water soluble, and will absorb moisture from ambient air (especially in humid climates). I would never use either one on any of my model (in any form) They will liquefy and ruin your model. I don't know why people come up with these silly ideas! Stick with the things that work like flocking, or embossing powders.

The answer is: depends on what scale the model is (since people on the forum build models from 1:6 to 1:160 scale), and how accurate you want the size to be. You didn't mention scale. Either way, you first find out the diameter of the wire you want to represent (not the actual metal conductor, but the outside diameter of the insulation) then divide it by your model's scale. For example if the insulation diameter of the 1:1 scale wire is 1/16" (or 0.0625") and your model is 1:25 scale then the scale diameter will be 0.0625" / 25 = 0.0025". That is quite thin - about the same diameter as human hair. I seem to recall that there is a thread on this website that has reference sizes for wires of various diameters in various scales.

BSI SUPER-GOLD+ (odorless) CA glue does not cause fogging. (yes, it is slightly more expensive than standard CA). Using BSI accelerator to quickly set any CA also prevents fogging (since the glue has no time to start evaporating). If the clear window is first dipped in Future (or whatever the current name is for that stuff) and will minimize plain CA fogging. I use both myself.

Exactly! I often witness the same thing - those impatient people in the end often end up behind me or literally just few seconds ahead of me. Is that really worth it? I think it is some sort of a mental issue. They are not right in their heads.

That is one impressive and unique model Alex!

If you have (or willing to learn) the required CAD skills, considering where this hobby is currently, 3D printing the model is an excellent choice. You just shift where you hobby time will be utilized. From physical scratchbuilding (the old way) to "virtual scratchbuilding" on the computer.

If you never seen "Spaceballs" then you won't get the joke. This is not the exact the same RV, but close.

This is some very impressive modeling. I hope you will add "I ❤️ URANUS" bumper sticker when you finish it.