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Everything posted by peteski
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Yes, many TV series from that time period will have street scenes featuring contemporary cars. Series like Dragnet, Cannon, Barnaby Jones, Mannix, Streets of SF, Police Woman, etc. For '80s and '90s there are Seinfeld, Heart to Heart, Perry Mason movies, Greatest American Hero, etc.
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Where do you live? Cash is not required for a robbers to strike. They steal cigarettes, and lottery tickets. Yes, I know the last one is stupid, but so are many robbers.
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What Do You Use To Replicate Chrome Trim
peteski replied to 69NovaYenko's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
You should be able to find HVAC tape (aka. aluminum duct tape) in any hardware store. It is quite a bit thicker than BMF since it is meant to seal duct work. The adhesive is also much more aggressive. I have roll of it, and I do use in my modeling, but not specifically for chome trim). -
Finger nail powder chrome works great
peteski replied to my66s55's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Well Daniel, I was born with a snarky personality. It is what it is. I'm far from being the only member here whom you might call snarky. I also don't know how that relates to my modeling skills, or my ability to leave helpful posts on this forum. As you can see by my post count, I do plenty of sharing (of actual useful info, unlike this silly discussion we are having). If you don't like my posts, just ignore me. Next time you look at any BMF package, you can see another example of my modeling (which you seemed to be craving so much). I comprehended your original "go try for yourself" post just fine. Not problems there. I just found it unhelpful. The only problem we are having here are your constant attacks about my personality and modeling abilities. As for my comments about this product, if you look at other posts, I'm not only one who is questioning the product. -
1961 Mercedes Benz 190SL - Revell with a few modifications
peteski replied to 89AKurt's topic in WIP: Model Cars
You are planning on shaving off the Revell copyright lettering from the floor pan, right? -
Very good! You're welcome Pete. Here is a quick example of focus stacking (with Helicon Focus). I'm only showing a single photo in the stack (to show how little is in focus in each photo). The photo shown is the second or third in the stach focused on the closest area of the model. After combining all the photos in the stack I ended up with the entire model in focus. This is an N-scale (1:160) model of a locomotive (about 6" long) and the photo was taken in macro mode for the exaggerated perspective.
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A corvette with a rusty body - not something you would see in 1:1 world.
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A good source of focus stacking info is https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focus_stacking It explains the process, and shows the available apps. As I mentioned, I use Helicon Focus. It is very handy for those macro shots you mentioned earlier. My Nikon CoolPix 8700 only stops down the lens to f8, so for my macro shots I stack the photos with Helicon Focus, It is a bit of a pain to do this, but the results are worth it. Some of the stacking apps can take the series of photos at different focus distance. automatically (if they can control the camera, wither DSLR or smart phone cameras). Some related inf is also available in these threads on another forum: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=45972.0 https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=50650.0
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Nice model of a long forgotten '80s car. I think this car was also sold as a Dodge Charger. My GF called it "Chargette".
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You do have a point Pete. Selecting a shallower angle for the subject (not a typical 3/4 view) will not require very wide depth of field, and using a telephoto lens will also help (as shown in your photo). But the way I understood the original question was to have all the objects in a photo in focus. That's where focus stacking comes in.
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The resin being discussed here is used in DLP (SLA) printers, and it is cured from liquid to solid with UV light (it is not a thermo-set resin that can be remelted like plastic used in filament printers).
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Finger nail powder chrome works great
peteski replied to my66s55's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Daniel, my reply was to your reply which I didn't find helpful at all. You are the 2nd person questioning my modeling credentials on this forum. I don't post WIPs, but you can see some of my modeling at my club's website: http://classicplastic.org/pete-w.html Photos of my models have also been published throughout the years in various modeling magazines (FineScale Modeler, Model Cars, and Scale Auto Contest Models). I hope that my modeling portfolio meets with your approval. Yes, I'm snarky because of the horse comment you made in your post. In my view, you resemble that comment more than I. I also found recent comment from Doug quite informative. Thanks Doug! -
Finger nail powder chrome works great
peteski replied to my66s55's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Excellent Idea Daniel! Why didn't I think of that instead of asking the forum's collective who might have used the stuff for their findings? I'll do my own experiment. I have been building plastic models for decades and I'm quite aware of the other (fragile) rub-on metallic powder solutions (like the old SnJ metallic powder). None of those were all that durable. From the more recent findings, Alsa Chrome seems like a good looking, and durable finish. Like you mentioned: if I want to find out how good the nail polish stuff is, I'll have to try it myself. -
Finger nail powder chrome works great
peteski replied to my66s55's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Well, I'm not looking for longevity of powdered graphite, but something that looks like chrome (for bumpers and trim), and that will get handled by human hands. As for fingernails, those get redone fairly often. But this is all just speculations - facts would be nice. -
Finger nail powder chrome works great
peteski replied to my66s55's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
We have all these "miracle" chrome systems popping up on the forum recently, but nobody seems to have a handle on how durable they are (either in handling or longevity). -
Improved Lighting & Magnification Options?
peteski replied to nitrojunkie's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Go for it: not sure why you posted that video on magnetizing in a thread that is about workbench lighting. -
Regardless of the camera type, only certain part of the photo will be in sharp focus. The range of distance on acceptable focus is called "depth of field". The smaller the aperture (numerically larger f-stop) of the lens is, the greater the depth of field. But very rarely you can get all the subjects in the photo in focus. If you want the entire photo to be in focus, you need to take a series of photos from the same vantage point, with each photo focusing at a different distance. From the closest to the camera, to the farthest object. Then you take all those photos and you "focus stack" them into a single photo which has everything in focus. Focus stacking can be a manual or automated process. Do a Google search for "focus stacking" and you will find several examples. I use Helicon Focus program.
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A possible workaround is to split up the body into multiple parts, and print each part in a way that will result in sharpest visible details. Yes, we would have to return to the days of multi-piece bodies, but (since the design is done in CAD) at least the pieces would fit better than back in those days.
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Baking Powder as Flocking?
peteski replied to JollySipper's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Steve, If you are talking about "Future" (or Pledge Floor Finish) it is *NOT* a floor polish. It has never been describes as "wax" or "polish". it is called "floor finish" because it is a water-based acrylic clear coating. Similar to other hobby water-based acrylic gloss clears. While I have not used it as a clear coat for a model car body, I have used it to improve the look if model's "glass" windows. -
Lacquer over Pledge Floor Care Finish?
peteski replied to aurfalien's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Shellac is alcohol-based,and can be thinner with full-strength alcohol. Denatured alcohol (Ethanol) should work well. Methanol also works well. Do a Google search for "shellac thinner". Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol will not work as well, and should be over 91% strength. -
Baking Powder as Flocking?
peteski replied to JollySipper's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Here you go guys. From https://www.foodnetwork.com/how-to/packages/food-network-essentials/baking-powder-vs-baking-soda-whats-the-difference The Similarities Between Baking Soda and Baking Powder Baking soda and baking powder are both leaveners made from a chemical called sodium bicarbonate. When sodium bicarbonate is combined with an acid, it produces a gas (carbon dioxide, C02, the same gas we exhale when we’re breathing) that lifts cakes, cookies or other baked goodies while they're in the oven. As C02 is produced, the batter expands and rises and the heat in the oven causes the protein in the batter (often eggs) to become rigid, a scaffolding of sorts that holds the baked good up even after it cools. The Difference Between Baking Soda and Baking Powder Baking soda is pure sodium bicarbonate, with nothing else in that box. In order for it to produce the gas, it needs an acid added. Then it gets to work neutralizing the acid, and in the process, it produces C02. Think back to the baking soda volcano experiment in grade school: when your science teacher added acid, it bubbled up and overflowed. Buttermilk, yogurt, lemon juice or molasses are a few of the acids we use in baking to activate baking soda. For this reason, baking soda is used in recipes that require an acidic ingredient added. Baking powder is a combination of sodium bicarbonate and powdered acid (like cream of tartar). Because it already contains an acid, all it needs is moisture and heat added to activate it. It's typically used in recipes that don't call for an acidic ingredient added. Sodium Bicarbonate Is water soluble, will absorb moisture from ambient air, resulting in a liquid solution. I like to understand how the chemicals I use in my hobbies work. Both of the above chemicals are used in food production. There really isn't any need to use them for modeling tasks. Yes, baking soda has been used (and is still used by some on this forum) as CA glue accelerator. It will cause instant setting of the CA glue generating heat. If it is totally sealed within the glue it will not absorb moisture, but if some grains are not fully sealed (exposed to ambient air), they will eventually turn into liquid solution, and ooze out. There are CA accelerators specifically designed to safely set the CA glue. Why not use those? Baby Powder (talcum, corn starch, and perfume) can be used as a filler material, but corn starch can develop mold after long exposure to moisture. Better to use talcum powder without any additives. Microballons are better inert type of filler. Plastic filings also work well as a filler. Again,, understanding the properties of the materials used in our hobby will result in better and more durable models. -
Baking Powder as Flocking?
peteski replied to JollySipper's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Very good Roger - I'm very happy to see good result using something I would not (and will not) consider using. I simply explained my reasoning for not wanting to even try using baking soda. Thinking in general seems to be in decline nowadays (in general, not you specifically). Get back to me in 10 years to let me know how that worked out. We can keep this going if you want. -
The best bottled paint mixing balls!
peteski replied to Dpate's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
I never encountered plastic mixing balls. I only have seen glass or metal ones. Plastic is rather ligth, so I can see how those are not very effective. I also like to add more than one ball into my paint jars. -
The best bottled paint mixing balls!
peteski replied to Dpate's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
I also saved bunch of those (and ones from other spray cans), but they are rather large to throw into a little square Testors bottle (if they would even fit through the neck), and even IMO too large for 1/2 or 1 oz. bottles. Smaller beads also get into the corners better to get the settled pigment stirred. Those UFOs however look very useful.