peteski

What paint stripper works and doesn't work is greatly dependent on the paint's chemistry and also on the strippers temperature (not just on luck or other factors). Some paint strippers work best with certain types of paint. I have not yet found a universal plastic safe paint stripper that would work on *ALL* types of paints (and likely I will never will). That is why I have several types of paint strippers at my disposal.

Smallest brass wire I used for pinning was 0.012" (and #80 holes).

I pin my small items and glue them using CA glue. It works well since the surface inside the hole is bare plastic, and the CA glue will also stay in the hole.

I was just having some fun. Yes, your files and drill bits are safely stored. I don't drink and drive, smoke, or use my smart phone when driving. I have to get my excitement in other ways (like storing tweezers in a portable holder, pointing up. I also sometimes run with scissors. But on a serious note, I do agree that modelers usually get injured by hobby knives.

Thank you Alan, I think . . . I can't deny that what you mentioned is not a real danger, but I guess we all can do things that can hurt or kill us. That tweezers stand resides either deep on my workbench, or over my workbench. I just moved closer to the edge to take the photo. But thanks for the warning. BTW, did you notice how Greg stores his riffler files, drill bits and pin vises?

Ok, I'll play here: I was shocked that you were shocked about the apparently high price of the Flexible Flyer sled. Now we are on the same page. All is well - no hard feelings.

Tony, I don't think you understood my post. It has nothing to do with lack of anonymity or guns. Bill (Ace) understand where I'm coming from. If you don't - just ignore my advice. This is not the time nor place for discussing this. Thank you for your service.

Grzegorz, I love your unique scratch-built models, and the photos of the finished models, but I would also love to see some in-progress photos of your builds. I'm sure everybody would like to see how they are made.

Oh yeah! While this is a thread about irksome things, I can't help but commend on the Brit sitcoms from the '70s and '80s. I have DVD sets of Keeping up Appearances and Are You Being Served. Those shows are so funny and well done. I also enjoyed One Foot In The Grave. Couplings was a bit later, but it was funny too. So was Vicar of Dibley.

I don't know. We pay $40 for small plastic kits. Have you looked at the gas prices, your grocery or utility bills? The brand name $120 5' sled doesn't seem all that unreasonable. It is probably made in China . . .

I also thank you all for your service. While not for the same reason Bill mentioned, I'm not sure if providing the details some of you do is such a good idea on a public forum. There are scammers out there who might be able to use that info for not so kosher purposes. I'm not paranoid, but the Internet is a wast wasteland full of bad people. Just saying . . .

I extensively use liquid masking media to protect bare plastic gluing areas from paint. I also use masking tape, andr for small cylindrical shapes I use pieces of stripped wire insulation (basically plastic tubing).

Welcome to the forum Jason! Many years ago I have built my one and only Pocher kit: 1935 Mercedes 500K sports roadster. I even had my grandfather build a glass display case for it. I Still have it. It took me much longer than a month to build. I wouldn't expect you to have finish it by Christmas (especially if you are not an experienced kit builder). As others mentioned, these kits require quite a bit of "massaging" to but them together correctly. Do you have any model building experience? This would not be my choice for a first build, but have fun with it, and take your time. These kits (even partially assembled) fetch amazing prices on eBay. Also, if you want to see some amazing Pochers and aftermarket accessories, along with amazing prices, check out https://www.modelmotorcars.com/ As for the screws, those are usually brass and while they can form threads in plastic, they can also snap while doing that. I seem to recall that I might have used one of the screws as a tap by grinding it into a tap-like end.

Just a warning about those transparent tangle-free hair bands, I have been using them (for modeling tasks) for several years and originally I thought that these were made from some long lasting material and unlike rubber bands they would not turn brittle and break down. Well it appears that some of them are long-lasting while others deteriorate just like rubber bands. I have some that are several years old and they are as clear and stretchy as the day I bought them. Others (which looked identical to the others when new) after couple of years have turned from transparent to milky white, and started to crack and crumble. As far as I can tell, you don't know which one you have just by looking at them when new. Not sure if this is only applicable to transparent bands (not the colored ones), but I figured I would give a heads-up.

Pretty clever Greg. I made my tweezers stand out of wood.

Interesting, Why both? Looks like the same stuff in both bottles. If I was going to try it, I would have just bought the small bottle. If it doesn't work out, I would be only out 7 bucks. If you look for the manufacturer on the back of the bottle, is it made by one of the large companies (like Johnson & Johnson), or by some small company we never heard of?

Oh ok. I thought there was something weird that eBay allowed to occur. It was just a low-life non-paying buyer. I used to, but haven't sold anything on eBay for a while. Isn't there something eBay does for non-paying seller. I guess you have to send him the invoice so eBay cana ding him for non-paying? Also, if you were to agree to his terms, how would you complete that transaction? After all eBay will send him to PayPal with $91.00 (plush shipping) charge. You can't change that, right? Or would he pay the full amount, then you would refund him the difference? Anyway, that is a sleazy buyer.

I'm unclear on this. You had this eBay listing. Was it auction style or BYN? Did you have "make an offer" option? I guess either way, someone won the auction (for whatever was the closing or BYN price). Did he pay, or before paying he sent a message offering you 1/2 payment? Is that even possible? A side deal? Since eBay doesn't allow members to exchange address or information, how can he conduct a side-deal with you? If the buyer doesn't pay in so many days, won't he will be penalized by eBay somehow? Just ignore his messages and if he doesn't pay the winning bid for so many days, something bad will happen to him. Right? If he paid, just send him the kit he won and be done. I guess I don't understand.

Thanks John! And it is true - it is all about what you are going for. That 1:1 Caddy looks larger than life due to the forced perspective of a wide-angle lens. The 1:1 green car looks like a model to me due to the angle of the photo and longer focal distance lens. When I build a model and I photograph it, I usually like it to look more like a 1:1 car, so I prefer the forced perspective look.

I find this pretty funny as we are basically rehashing what is in that thread I linked to earlier. The only thing new here (if it wasn't already mentioned in the other thread) is the MODO D-05h stripper.

Maybe get a butane lighter for pipes? Those are like mini torches but probably not quite as hot.

There are several paint stripping chemical in my arsenal of plastic safe strippers, and 99% Isopropyl alcohol (from hardware store in the paint thinners section) is one of them. I'm sure that IPA has been mentioned numerous times in the Paint Strippers sticky thread, in the Q & A section of the forum. The 99% one is a bit more potent than what you used, and will work well with some types of paints, so-so with other, and wont' even touch certain other types of paint. Paint stripping from plastic is a very inexact science - more like black magic.

I'm of the other thought: Telephoto lens flattens the already small model. I find that using as wide angle lens as possible and closer to the model exaggerates its perspective, making it appear like 1:1 vehicle. Wide angle lenses also have greater depth of field, so more of the model stays in focus. Of course using the smallest possible lens aperture (largest f-stop) also improves the depth of field. I'm talking about 3/4 shots of course. Example: a 1:32 scale model where the front appears large but it gets smaller towards the rear. Makes it look like it is long. 1:8 scale model. Again the wide angle lens gives the perspective effect.

Ok, I understand now. So you want to make the typical model hinges using flat, instead of round stock. Detail Associates (company catering to model railroaders) sells flat brass stock. 2526 Flat Brass Wire .015x.024" 2524 All Scale Flat Brass Wire pkg(4) -- .010 x .030" 2522 Brass Flat Bar .010 X .018

Can you give an example of the specific hinge you are making (or the vehicle that uses it)? I have a hard time picturing exactly what you want to do. Will the hinges be functional or just for looks? Vintage cars with side-opening hoods used long piano-type hinges, and the hinges like used on that Willys kit are either cut from flat sheet stock (or formed from bent wire), not from thin strips.