-
Posts
8,944 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Everything posted by peteski
-
Not quite that simple. You still need to be very good with CAD in order to clean up and modify the scan (including hollowing out the body). Some details and features of 1:1 car also don't scale well. There is quite a bit of skilled-human-performed CAD work involved to make usable 1:24 version of a scanned 1:1 car body. And this does not even cover many other parts needed for a model kit. Things like interior, wheels, drive train would all have to be dealt with. Here is a bit of a trivia. Early 3D printers were nicknamed "Santa Claus Machines", since they created things someone wanted.
-
LOL! Fixed it. But if you ever wondered if split point drill ever wanders . . . it doesn't. No need to wonder any longer.
-
That's why we often drill by hand. Can't get any slower than that.
-
Yes, in spray cans, the TS (Tamiya Spray) are the ones with glossy car paints. Those are plastic compatible. The AS (Aircraft Spray) are also plastic compatible, but are flat finish, and the colors selection is what you would finish on military aircraft (camo). Many colors are good for car interior colors. Basically, it is the same chemistry as TS line, but different color range. I guess they created separate line for more merchandising. The PS (Polycarbonate Spray) line is the one which might be too "hot" for painting polystyrene kits. Those are designed to paint the clear polycarbonate body shells of RC cars (from the inside). The other Tamiya paints (in jars) should all be safe on polystyrene. Here is the website: https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/paints/ you can select the specific paint lines in the left column
-
Ah, I see what you mean about 1:24 being small to you now. I now do remember that crooked lens and you being the builder. That is a beautiful model!
-
I did contact Airfix/Hornby (through he website), but I wasn't as successful as you were. Here is the response I received from them: Dear sir I would like to apologise for the delay in responding. We have been trying to get stock but unfortunately without success; I am sorry that we are currently unable to be of assistance as we do not currently have any available stock of the item that you have requested. However, this part may become available so could I please request that you contact us again later in the year and we will endeavour to look again for you. Alternatively see place of purchase. Please accept our apologies for any inconvenience caused Kind regards Airfix Spares Team I'll have to try the hot water fix.
-
I do like the color, but your photos show what looks like 2 distinctly different greens. One is lighter, the other one darker. Probably related to the camera's white balance and the lighting used. Which of the photos look closes to what you see in-person?
-
Yes, "hot" paint or thinner in modeler's colloquial terms doesn't mean actual temperature of the liquid. It means that the solvents in it are strong enough to attack (melt) polystyrene or ABS plastic the kits are made of. This was not a problem back in the day when modelers assembling plastic kits only used hobby paints (Testors, Pactra) which were specifically formulated to be mild (or "cool") enough not to negatively affect the plastic surface. Those were plastic compatible paints. But then modelers wanted to build model cars which had same color as the real cars, so they started using automotive touch-up paints designed for 1:1 metal-body cars. Those paints are usually lacquers which use solvents that are strong enough to attack plastic. Using a primer often creates a barrier for the solvent in hot paints not to attack plastic, but it is not a cut and dry process - you have to experiment to make sure the combination is safe to use. Same with using multiple brands/types of primer/paint/clear. There are some combination that will and some that won't work. Safest bet is to use hobby paints designed for plastic models. Many of the brands were discontinued, but one still going strong is Tamiya. But they also make paints for polycarbonate RC car bodies, so be careful which line of Tamiya paints you choose. Some say that those paints are too expensive. Well, it is all relative. If you don't want to worry about paint compatibility or crazing, then Tamiya is a pretty safe bet.
-
Thanks for the review Steve. I'm a bit puzzled about the "brushed aluminum" statement. Aluminum has a "cool" bluish-silver color. BMF has a distinctly "warm" silver tone -- more like nickel than anything else. I also never thought that it had a brushed look to it. While it is not mirror-like reflective, it is nowhere as dull as brushed metal. Or does the new stuff look duller than the old original BMF?
-
Lurch, if I may suggest, maybe in the future do not use black text on dark gray background -- it is hard to read that way. I'm not even sure how you did that in the first place.
-
That stinks! While the $85 hurts, what hurts even more is the higher car insurance rates for the next few years (unless you don't have mandatory insurance in your state and you drive without insurance). But if you really ran a red light, you won't get sympathy from me. It seems that I see this happen almost daily. What the heck is the *BIG* rush?!?!? Obey the damn traffic rules! Same with stop signs. Nobody (but me) seems to actually come to complete stop anymore. Actually today some yahoo who was behind me (in a huge hurry) saw me slow down for the yellow light and passed me on the right (using the bike lane), and blew through the clearly red (by then) light. Of course the dweeb got stuck at the next lights (probably around 500 feet further). When it turned green he did take off (turning right at that light). By the time I got to that light (also turning right) I lost sight of him. But guess what? Two streets later I saw him up ahead, pulling into a driveway. As I passed by that driveway I stopped and shook my head. All that crazy driving just to get to his driveway about 10 seconds sooner than if he stayed behind me in the first place. Some people . . .
-
Thanks for the explanation Bruce. You mentioned that this is the smallest Ferrari you have worked on. Isn't the kit 1:24 (standard) scale? Do you normally work on larger scale (1:16, 1:12, OR 1:8), or even on 1:1 scale Ferraris?
-
That is some impressive work Bruce! I noticed that the silver engine parts seem to have a textured surface. Was that present on the unpainted parts, or is it the silver paint itself?
-
Very nice model. IMO, Tomy (tomica) Matchbox-size diecasts are nicer than either Matchbox or Hot Wheels. I own several. This one is quite complex with all those different color parts.
-
1/43 1962 Chevy ll 4 door ---cheap diecast before and after detailing.
peteski replied to rsmodels's topic in Diecast Corner
Nice job modifying the model. If you can do it, a crowning touch would be to add scale license plates that your mother's car had. That's if you remember what they were. Or at least period plates. -
B-52 BUFF
peteski replied to Kit Basher's topic in All The Rest: Motorcycles, Aviation, Military, Sci-Fi, Figures
Your model looks really good! I built that kit years ago, in my mid-teens. Model is long gone. I seem to recall that I painted my gray (I'm not a military buff - I don't remember any more details). All I remember that it was a *LARGE* model. I also think the BUFFs are good looking aircraft. -
Reposting some photos I have shown here in the past. Few Gunze Sangyo 1:32 kits of the '50s and '60s cars. Going smaller, here are couple of 1:43 models. Monogram Ultimates 289 Cobra. VW Beetle (rebuilt diecast kit from Testors). Going even smaller, here is a '56 Ford Crown Vic in H0 (1:87) scale. Smallest ones I built (so far) are N scale (1:160). FedEx Dodge Sprinter. Micron Art photoetched brass kit of a '15 Ford Model T Another Micron Art brass kit of a '14 Knox Fire Engine. Resin-cast (from a scratch-built master) golf carts (for my friend's layout golf course - I made several) Also resin cast from a scratch-built master dodgem (bumper) cars. Small scale models rule!!
-
Heck, I would pay her $100! Just think of the money she would save me in the long run!
-
All the 1/8" shank Tungsten Carbide PC Board drill bits are sharpened to a split point which does not wander over the material. But sure, adding a dimple of a starter wont' do any harm. https://ireviewtools.com/split-point-drill-bits-vs-standard-bits/
-
I was just having some fun. I'm glad you're back online. Hopefully the hack did not cause much damage.
-
So you are telling me that I can call, in the middle of my contract period, and haggle about the price? I thought all those documents I signed (um, at the best price they could give me) when I signed up for the service stated that the the price was valid for the duration of the contract. Crazy!