peteski

Rob, from what I see it appears that your method is similar to pressure casting. Basically you pour the resin into the open end of the mold, then you put it in a vacuum. If there are bubbles or air pockets in the liquid resin, they will bubble up to the top. Correct? I think I like that. I wonder why it is not more popular in USA? It likely takes some time to evacuate the air. What is the setting time for the resin you use? You likely also vaccum the liquid RTV when making the molds?

I don't think anybody here is trying to fix anything -- we are simply stating that there are alternatives, not discouraging the use of MCW products. And as I mentioned, my original post actually was discouraging from using the touch-up paints. Also orange-peel problem is most often caused by the spray painting technique (method of spraying and thinning the paint), not by the paint itself.

The post I linked to also shows the difference in sheen between the various foils. Yes, I'm sure the MIG aluminum foil has its place in the arsenal of adhesive foils, as does the aluminum duct tape.

I caught a partial eclipse of the moon in January 2019.

I guess you misunderstood my post. I mentioned that while automotive touch-up paints are used by some, the metallic particles are usually out of scale. That implies that I would *NOT* recommend them (although I have used them in the past). I believe the MCW and other similar paints for the hobby market are derived from the same automotive paints used on 1:1 cars. They are just sold in small quantities and thinned (reduced) to be airbrush ready.

being 0.0015" instead of 0.0005" is much more than 1.5 times. It is 3 times as thick. Also thicker might mean more forgiving, but also not as pliable and stretchy (so it will not conform as well to features like scripts. BMF chrome is also *NOT* aluminum foil. it is some sort of liw melt temperature alloy which is very stretchy. We already have a thread on BMF and all the alternatives. The MIG foil review is in

Yes that method (or simply buying small bottles of automotive touch-up paints at the car parts store) is a way to get the exact colors. But sometimes in metallic particles of the 1:1 scale paints look out of scale when applied to a 1:24 model. This problem is usually not noticed when viewing the model in person, but it really shows up in close-up photos.

Oh I believe you Charlie. I'm sure the tire and lettering look fine. What I"m saying is that if you had a way to measure how far the lettering protrudes from the sidewall on your tire, it would probably be exaggerated when compare to the 1:1 tire. That doesn't mean it is a bad thing.

What I was saying is that on the tire Scott showed, some of the details on the 1:1 tire is likely so low-relief that if accurately scaled it would barely be noticeable. It will likely have to be slightly exaggerated to look "right" in the scaled down tire. I suspect that the Good Year logo on your tires was also slightly exaggerated, but not enough to stand out. Many model kit tires (especially the vinyl tires from the '70's kits had grossly exaggerated brand lettering). It takes more than just accurately scaling down everything for a model to look "right". Some details need to be tweaked. It is a bit of an art form.

I'm not talking about eBay, but about USPS in general. I have USPS account and when I go to print a shipping label, I have to enter the date when I'll be shipping the package. I always put that actual day I'll be dropping it off at the PO (which is almost always either the same day, or the next day after printing the label). To If you track that label, it will sow as "label created". I have never tried holding the package few days past the shipping date I entered. What would happen if I didn't mail the package? Probably nothing. It is not like someone from USPS will come knocking on my door asking "where is that package you were supposed to ship 3 days ago?". It likely just stays in "label created" state until the PO receives and scans it.

I wouldn't follow those pictorial instructions, I always stir and swirl clockwise!

Shaking hands has not been much of a problem since the COVID started.

Does he maybe frequent the spotlight hobbies forum? If yes, maybe check there? Is he maybe on Facebook or Twitter?

True. The amount of detail on the sidewall depends on the tire brand and how detailed you want the model of that tire to be. And yes, the example you show has lots of detail (more than most kit tires usually have). Some of that detail would probably barely show in 1:24/25 scale unless you exaggerated it on the model tire. I was thinking about the average level of sidewall detail depicted on a typical tire included in a model kit.

Is it really all that much work? As I mentioned, tire's sidewall is fairly featureless, and the tread pattern repeats around the circumference of the tire, so you could just draw a small section of the tire, then copy that "slice" all around until the tire is complete. That doesn't seem like a lot of work. But maybe I'm not thinking the way you are thinking.

Not sure what kind of a scanner you have, but as I understand 3D scanning (especially with consumer level scanners) scanning process is not very accurate as far as exact detail dimensions go. Often a lot of manual cleanup of the scan is needed. Since tire is a rather simple shape with a repeating tread pattern, wouldn't it be easier to draw a pie-slice-shaped slice of the tire, then just duplicate that shape around the center of the tire to get a nice sharp and accurate 3D file for printing?

I have seen all sorts of model tire "rot" (one example is what you are seeing). It depends on the quality and formula of vinyl/rubber (soft plastic) the manufacturer uses for the tires. I have also seen similar problem in other soft-plastic items (like toys or household items) made in China. Well, most stuff is made in China nowadays. Unfortunately there isn't much that can be done to repair the damage. The liquid which is leaching out is likely plasticizer (chemical added to make the material soft). In my experience tires made from real rubber (usually included in Japanese kits like Tamiya, Fujimi, Hasegawa, or Aoshima) are the most durable. They do not leach any liquid, of get squishy, but they can dry out and might crumbly after many years. That's in the older kits I have. The tires in some of the more recent kits from some of those companies seem to use a different material for tires. Not sure if it will also be as durable as the older rubber tires .

Lacquer hardens (dries) by evaporation of the solvent. Enamel also dries by solvent evaporation, but then it continues to cure by a chemical reaction. Sometimes that process takes quite some time. I have never tried mixing those two paint types, but understanding the difference in chemistry, I would not even try that. But my advice based on theory has been questioned and ridiculed on this forum, so feel free to try the experiment, or be safe and listen to the advice given. As far as "cellulose" , that seems be a colloquial name used in European countries for describing Nitrocellulose lacquer (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lacquer#Nitrocellulose_lacquers). Opaque Humbrol paints are enamels (similar to the old Testors or Pactra model paints), but I believe that the transparent paints are lacquers. If you are looking for clear red version of Testors paints, maybe get the metallic ruby red paint and let the metallic particles settle down, then use the transparent part of the paint. Or maybe just test ruby red to see if it might be a color you can use instead of the burgundy. It is a dark metallic red.

True, but if the gas prices stay where they are now (or go even higher) all those Chevy "Subdivisions" or other large SUVs will end up on used (um, excuse me: pre-owned) car dealer lots.

The middle wire on any distributor goes to the high voltage (center) terminal on the ignition coil (often mounted off-engine on a wheel-well or firewall).

Yes, with inexpensive miniature drill bits the quality is all over the place. The point i was making is that a steel drill will not get dull by drilling lots of hoes in plastic. If they are dull, it is right from the start.

I really don't think that drill longevity comes into picture (even with really crappy steel bits). Most of the time they are used on plastic or maybe some soft metals. Those are magnitudes softer than the drill bit. The problem with cheap bits is that they are not very well sharpened to begin with.

There is also this stuff (I have had a bottle for decades). I sometimes use it to make stickers from ordinary paper printouts. The Microscale MI-8 Micro Metal Foil Adhesive is probably very similar to BMF's stuff.

LOL Kurt, whatever floats your model. BTW, was the shipping cost included in that 8.33 Euro? That is a good deal.

I was going to let this go, but you keep harping on me to prove my skills or modeling experience. Just because I don't post any WIP threads it doesn't mean that I don't know what I'm talking about. Those models on my club's website are not built by some little elves I hired. Those models are proof that I'm not just blowing smoke, or just an armchair modeler. There are other modelers here who only post photos of their completed models. There are yet others who do not post in either WIP or Finished Models sections, with only an occasional model photo in some thread (or no model photos at all) who also are very knowledgeable and offer sage advice (with or without snark) which is worth paying attention to. I have plenty of knowledge and experience with chemicals we use in our hobby, and I firmly believe that understanding the chemistry behind the products we use results in better models. I also seem to have plenty of credibility on this forum, but you are fixating on my personality traits, not at my actual skills and knowledge. Just like you said: whatever dude. BTW, your last post contained some useful info. Thank you!