peteski

Good advice. I never only upload photos to some Internet repository. I always keep a copy on local hard drive, and also a backup of the hard drive on a different device.

Now we're getting somewhere. Thanks!

Sure (that was my thought all along - for the reasons I explained earlier), but here the "enamel"seems to be the buzzword of the day.

Ok, so no specific example, brand or type. I don't recall anybody on the forum ever mentioning or worrying whether the primer was enamel or lacquer. And like Ace mentioned, I doubt the label will state which primer is inside.

Well then, we'll just have to trust our noses. Funny that in all those years with plenty of often started threads about which primer is the best, nobody seems to have mentioned enamel vs. lacquer primers.

In those instances it would still be nice of those individuals who post separate thread to post a link to their thread in the pinned Obit thread. That way it will be easy to find at a later time.

Good to know, but is that something that nowadays is also sold in spray cans? That can looks to be 70 years old! I don't recall anybody mentioning (in our model car circles) stating that they specifically were using enamel primer. Usually just generic stuff from car parts stores, Walmart, or other similar source, or some hobby primer made by one of the hobby companies. None (as I recall) seem to mention what type of primer they are.

How exactly do you know that? Is that written somewhere on the can?

Is there such a thing as "enamel primer". It seems to me that it would not be a good primer if you had to wait for weeks for the it to harden. Remember. enamels have multiple stages of "drying". First, the solvent evaporates, then the binder hardens over time by a chemical reaction with the surrounding oxygen. Primers (in my experience) all dry very fast. Actually I suspect that primers are their own type of coatings. They are neither lacquers or enamels.

Yeah, until the decide to raise the price.

I agree with Tom. I don't need specific religion crammed down my throat. But that is getting into the Tabu subject, so that's all that I'll say. I almost never shop at HL (especially since they are closed on the "holy day", and that is usually when I'm close to the store).

That is why the suggestion was to create a sticky thread (In the off-topic section) to hold death announcements related to all the deceased modelers (or other hobby-related personalities). That way you would not have sift through all the celebrity death notices, or silly word game threads. They would always be all be right of top of the forum. I think that would be an excellent idea.

Seems like some are really splitting hairs about something that might not even happen at all. I also happen to agree that obits (of any type) are not good fit for this section (regardless of what one can perceive as a loophole in the forums description).

Cool stuff! I was (and still am) a KISS fan (the original band). Nice job on the Simmons figure. '70s were fun years for a teen (me).

Drills and mills for producing machine-turned surface finish on thin sheet of metal!? The tool needs to be something lightly abrasive that will gently scuff/scratch the surface (not drill a hole in it).

I don't know your specific issue, but if your old phone operated on 3G cellular network, then it will not work in most places (since the phone companies have shut down, or are shutting down the 3G network). Of course it would be nice if they offered customers with old phones a free (or heavily discounted) new phone that that works on 4G or 5G networks.

Actually that XY table is not bad at all (for light jobs). It is quite precise.

I avoid using masking tape for any permanent projects because it (and its adhesive) is designed for temporary use. After few years the adhesive either dries up and turns into dust, or gets really gummy, and turns into sticky mess). The way it ages is probably dependent on the brand of the tape. Even the "good" 3M Scotch brand is like that. The cheap off-brands age quicker.

I'm not sure if this will be helpful, but if I go down that thread, and left-click on Ace's photo, still visible in one of his posts (which BTW, is hosted on Photobucket), I get an error like this: 502 ERROR The request could not be satisfied. CloudFront wasn't able to resolve the origin domain name. We can't connect to the server for this app or website at this time. There might be too much traffic or a configuration error. Try again later, or contact the app or website owner. If you provide content to customers through CloudFront, you can find steps to troubleshoot and help prevent this error by reviewing the CloudFront documentation. Generated by cloudfront (CloudFront) Request ID: 13lAIGY_dYunS3UzIPhhZimrGeRRYpO0kSvZnvLR3MY6qyHwPudfaw== The URL of the 502 error is: https://s1019.photobucket.com/user/fastoldcarz/media/Jag XK 120 for Bonneville/DSCN0256_zpsyapet6pv.jpg.html

I love the color! As for the exact year, many European makes did not really change from year to year. Some models lasted several years.

This has already been covered (since last night) in I was surprised that this death notice was not posted in this section.

Part of my point is that I think that even 8000 and 12000 numbers are exagerrated. If you had the ability to measure the grit on those sheets it would likely be lower than the stated numbers. What "grit" is a used dryer softener sheet? Some people use those for polishing paint jobs. Yet I don't polish or wax any of my models, so I should really just keep quiet. But I can't help rolling my eyes when I see those high numbers mentioned. Hey, but if others enjoy polishing their models, all the power to them. If I was forced to sand/polish, to me it would be a chore which would make me abandon the hobby.

These super-fine sanding/polishing grit battles are totally out of control. I honestly think that manufacturers just pull those high numbers out of a hat just to appease those addicted to sanding/polishing

Ian, this is true with any type of metalizing process (vacuum metalizing, Alclad II, Molotow, Alsa Chrome, etc.) when one expects to obtain a smooth reflective finish.

Just to clarify things, what we colloquially call "chroming" is actually a vacuum metalizing process using aluminum vapor. This is the process used almost exclusively by most plastic kit manufacturers. Most current kits still use the vacuum metalizing process for their "chrome" parts trees. The "real" chrome plating plastic is fairly complex process (using nasty chemicals). There are few companies that used that for their plastic kits (like Trumpeter), but those parts are very difficult to work with since the layer of chromium is much thicker than a typical vacuum metalization. Scraping it to get to bare plastic is difficult. Little Motor Kar Co. seems to be the only one still offering this service to modelers. For more info see: