peteski

Does "Abteilung 502" smell like ammonia? If yes, then it is latex (natural rubber). I'm nor sure what would remove it from brushes. I use latex-based liquid masks, and I apply them using toothpick (but I never mask large areas - I do those with masking tape).

Basically you are asking about custom decal producers (size is not really relevant since the enlarged artwork needs to be made). See this post for some info on the subject. You of course will have to discuss your needs with whichever company you select. And remember, this process is not as easy as just scanning the sheet and printing it out (especially if metallic inks are used). Speaking as an Alps printer owner myself, the artwork will have to be prepared in vector format and colors will need to be separated. If you cap prepare your artwork, you will save some money. If you can't do the artwork, I hope the graphic artist at the decal company provided you proofs before printing the decals so you can actually see if they properly fit the model. Remember models scales are not always exact or correct.

Thanks Charles! I went to MCG website and searched for 55 Chevy and all I found was the Cameo. I then searched for BelAir and only found '57. I guess I gave up the search too soon.

Yes, a very fine saw and miter box works well. If you have steady hand you can also cut it with a cutoff wheel mounted in a Dremel tool. Just hold the tubing steady on the edge of your bench. Then you can then use the side of the cutoff wheel as a grinding wheel to dress the cut (but do it gently not to break the cutoff wheel). I do use a hobby knife rolling the tube on a hard surface, but that works on the thin-wall variety (not the standard brass tubing) The knife blade will not wander if it is perfectly perpendicular to the tubing, so this is a hit-or-miss method (but I do have decent track record of doing that).

Is there such set available? MCG makes one for a '57 Chevy, but not '55.

If you notice on the box George, these show 4 each in sizes F60-15 and L60-15 . Those are different sizes.

She is a character from Star Trek TOS episode. Funny, I just watched that episode recently on MeTV.

I also celebrated one day earlier. Plus I celebrate on January 6, 8, 12, and 16. But I can't celebrate 32, 43, 87, or 160, but I'm ok with that. Some of us have lots to celebrate.

I meant to say "radial" Thanks Lee.

I have to take back some of the praises about new decals. They do look nice, but I just placed the sheet against the door and the guitar artwork is quite a bit longer than the door. That is way too large. Also the word "THE" uses style of letters I have not seen on any of the Monkeymobiles. Well, when I bought the previous release of the kit I was going to make my own decal, and it looks like I'll still have to do that to get the correctly sized artwork. I'm surprised nobody checked the artwork against the model's door before approving it for printing.

Thanks Robert. I was wrong (but in this case it is a good thing). I think I figured out why I thought they were all the same: The instructions do not indicate that there are 2 different sizes, They just give part number "2" for all the tires. I then looked at the tires, still in the bag, and while I noticed the nice printed sidewall details to me they looked like they were all the same size (I guess the instruction sheet made me think they were all the same). But I'm glad they are different sizes. Now if they also made the rear rims deeper, that would have been really nice, but that would have meant modifying the entire chrome tree mold, so I guess I can't blame them for not doing that. I'm happy, especially since the decal sheet is really nice. 2 different door artworks, 2 different GTO emblems, and few extras. And they used nice metallic gold ink. Only missing thing is Jeffries' crest, but that is probably due to licensing issues due to the cars changing hands multiple times. According to this strange blog https://themonkeesandmonkeemobile.blogspot.com/2012/10/the-true-facts-about-all-five-monkee.html over time there were like 9 different monkemobiles. Be careful visiting that website in case there is some malware there.

Well, after reading about the recent MPC reissue, I bought one of those kits. The decal is nice, and it has those beautiful blue-line Goodyear tires. But . . .all 4 tires are the same size! The real car has larger and wider tires in the rear! Oh well . . .

Yes, that is a complex paint job on a model that is probably less than 3" long!

https://www.wmbros.com/ Last update is in 2020 and their store shows they are still in a soft shutdown (probably since 2020). Doesn't look good. I wanted to order some of their rotary radial engine kits, but who knows if they will ever open up again. I agree with others - that is a nicely done model Phillip.

That is something new I learned today. Very informative video, and those sure are crazy wipers!

Not just the primer Richard. Some different paint brands or types (like the old lacquer over enamel thing) are just not compatible, and can wrinkle or crack when used together.

I have my doubts, but I could be wrong.

Actually alkaline batteries don't leak acid (but their namesake chemical). That needs to be neutralized with acid. Vinegar works really well. But those leaked out quite badly. If possible I would take the plastic cover off and see if any of the caustic liquid got inside the electronics. In the future try Lithium AA batteries. They are more reliable, but I guess if they are left long enough to discharge they might leak too.

I agree that most photoetched wipers look too 2-dimensional. I also fear that 3D printed ones would be very fragile. For decades I have been using 3mm and 5mm LEDs for lighting up various projects. I often have trim the long leads. Those leads have a square cross-section, about 0.020" thick. I used those leads as a base for my home-made wiper arms and blades. I take one of those cut-offs and bend one end 90 degrees (to make the mounting shaft). Then I determine the length of the arm and on the other end I make another 90 degree bend, then trim that one very close to the straight arm. That will be a mounting point for the blade. Then using soldering iron and solder I thicken the base of the arm. At that point it doesn't look very neat, but then I take a file and since the solder is very soft I file the solder into the tapered shape the arm is supposed to have. Using another piece of the LED lead I then make a blade. Either just a single straight piece, or 3-piece like the wipers on the Peterbilt cab. I then spray paint them silver, and brush-paint black for the rubber element. They to me look much more realistic than photoetched ones.

Regardless of how the mistake happened, the subject line could be edited (unless dimaxion is enjoying this continuing off-topic chatter in a thread which was not meant to be off-topic).

While you guys are having a blast, yo mama registered on the forum last Thursday and that was also the last time they visited here (after making this single post).

Ah, check/crack. Makes sense now. Thanks.

What does that mean?

LOL, ok. I didn't expect that.

Internet search for "candlestick phone" brings up hundreds of photos. I see these when watching old shows like the "Andy Griffiths Show". Original ones had no rotary dial. Taking it off the hook connected you to the switchboard operator. You had to tell her (yes, a woman) who you wanted to call, and she would then manually set up the connection.