peteski

You mean the kits? No, It was a very obscure French manufacturer - long gone. https://www.scalemates.com/brands/europe-model-kits--4475

David, go to your favorite search engine and look up "cell phone tower near me" , then select one of the websites to find your tower. Towers can be shared by several providers.

It's in the front, under the "hood". The starting crank is up front. You can see the crank on the model. Here is a similar car. I believe it was powered by this spindly looking V-twin engine: Another view of the engine compartment: Some good info on https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/Panhard-Levassor

Pretty clever Steve, but don't the 1:1 filters have a rubber seal on top and bottom which has smooth (not corrugated) edge?

I fixated on the piece marked .040 and didn't notice the other numbers. I just write the actual number. I guess if you have a 0.050" and 0.005" pieces, you will mark both as "5", but visually you will be able to tell the difference.

Yes, it is the plasticizer in soft vinyl that leaches out and softens polystyrene. This has been an ongoing problems for certain tires and certain manufacturers for decades. Placing the tires in a plastic zip-loc bag isolates them from other kit parts.

I also do this. I assume that .040 is the thickness (0.040"). That is how I mark mine. Saves getting the calipers out.

Yes the Tungsten Carbide PC Board drill bits with 1/8" shanks are very handy, and I use them as much as I can. Over the years I acquired a good range and quantity of those bits. I also bought a set of the GodHands bits (0.5-0.9mm, 2.5mmm shank) and I I'm not very impressed. They aren't made very well compared to the PC Board bits. Of course their advantage is that being made from HSS, then are nowhere as brittle.

Very nice build! I have that kit, along with few other Europe kits of the late 19th Century cars. Nice to see one in finished state. While fiddly, it sure looks like very finely molded kit of you put some care into the assembly.

That would be good, but I'll believe it when I see it.

Yeah, I miss the days when you had to not only pay insertion price just to create the listing, but also percentage of the opening bid. That is why so many auctions back then had opening bid of a penny. EBay is like wast wasteland nowadays, full of commercial sellers and opportunists hoping for suckers. The search engine also stinks, and all the "helpful" similar items to the one you are viewing are also very annoying.

Yes, as you well described it, there are many ways to skin that "cat". I still wonder if the question is about doing it on a touch screen device (which I do not use).

When I try, even if the quote box has text in it, if the cursor is under the quote, the Backspace key deletes the whole thing at once. Again, on a PC in a Web Browser. Many people use smart devices and those probably behave differently.

I have never sanded or rubbed out base or clear coat of any of the models I have ever built (sans for some occasional spot sanding and touch-up of some schmutz that got into the original paint job. I find my models glossy enough for my own taste, and many have placed first or 2nd in model contests. If I had to resort to sanding, I would not enjoy this hobby enough to stay in it. Primer: Tamiya Fine White Primer. Base coat: Nail Polish. Stripes: AccuPaint White. Clear Coat: Testors Wet-look Clear. No sanding no buffing, no rubbing. Maybe I'm just lucky. My "Secret" probably is that I airbrush minimal number of coats using heavy application. The paint self-levels.

If you are using a PC you should be able to delete the quote from the "compose" window just as you would delete a word or a picture. If on a tablet/phone, I have no idea. I just tried here by quoting you. If I place the cursor right under the quote, then press the Backspace key, it deletes the whole quote. Like I mentioned, a quote is just another object (liek a picture).

They might have been out of stock for quite some time. Last time I bought some was probably about a year ago, and at that time Randy had issues producing them and didn't know when the would be available again. They are really nice wire wheels. 3D printing is the only way one can achieve true interlaced spokes. Photoetched spokes can't emulate that.

You answered your own question. Yes, they likely get the wire from industrial suppliers who sell the wire in bulk. It probably comes in 1000' reels, and it costs probably more than you're willing to pay (or use in your lifetime). Then companies like Detail Master repackage that stuff in modeler-friendly lengths. Repackaging takes time, and some additional profit is also to be made to keep the company in business, so the price for small packages is higher than what the original wire cost.

It is not about your true skills, but about how many tools you own! Granted, I regularly use 2 pairs, but the other ones do come in handy from time to time. And I always know where all my tweezers are. Well, almost always. ...

Tweezers with very sharp pointed jaws work too (similar to using a knife, except then you can grab the edge of the mask and pull it).

Very handy fifteen dollar tool, and accurate to 0.001"! Nice! For that price you can even afford to have multiple digital calipers.

Yes, a watchmaker's apron is an excellent idea. I had a strip of fuzzy Velcro sewn into the lower edge, and I stuck strip of the hooky part of Velcro under my bench. It works quite well and it is easy to fasten/unfasten.

Wasn't the "new Coke" just relabeled Pepsi?

Save the environment (and the plastic trees)?

Very nice build! I like the color you chose. That kit is quite good (Tamiya IMO does not make bad kits), but yes it is vintage, and while it has full engine, the details are sparse. Again, typical Tamiya thing - parts are very well molded and fit well, but the details are sparse for someone who likes detailed engine bay. That is how I expect a Tamiya kit to be. That kit has the best molded 1-piece plastic wire wheels I have ever seen.

Dave, is this the newly released ex-snapper kit that was discussed last month (just how bad it is and how high of a price it has) . Too bad you didn't see that thread. There were lots of warnings in it. But yours came out looking quite good (at least in the photos).