peteski

For continuity, the original thread about QCS can be found at http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/164852-new-way-to-strip-paint-from-bodies-safe-and-simple/

I bought the stripper in June 2022 and tried it not too long after that. I did not contact them about the problem, but on November 2022 I received the following email from QCS: Dear QCS Model Safe Customer, You are receiving this email because you have purchased our QCS Model Safe product. As we received feedback from our QCS Model Safe customers like yourself, we heard mostly positive reviews, BUT we did hear that some users were having trouble and that our “model safe” product was damaging some models. This was deeply frustrating to some users and understandably so. Because of this, we have decided to temporarily remove our QCS Model Safe product from our website until we gather more information from all of our QCS Model Safe users. In the meantime, if you love QCS Model Safe and would like to re-order, you can do so by contacting customerservice@stripwell.com. Our customer service team can process that order for you and make sure that you still get what you need. I just have a word of caution for anyone still using QCS Model Safe or planning to order more in the future - use caution. There are many brands of models and a variety of plastic types. Any models or parts that have been 3D printed should definitely not be stripped using QCS Model Safe. The damage reports we have received appear to all have one thing in common - submersion in QCS Model Safe for an extended period of time…often over-night. We highly recommend that you keep your eyes on your projects to avoid any irreversible negative effects. Most users have found that QCS Model Safe works within the first hour with no ill-effects. This is not a “dunk it and forget it” process. You can immerse your model, but check it frequently. We appreciate your business and your understanding as we work to create innovative products. Your feedback is so valuable to us as we continuously strive to improve. So, please share anything about your experience using QCS Model Safe whether great, awful or somewhere in the middle. Below is a link to a quick survey. Please take a minute to fill it out. We only know what you tell us. Thank you so much and happy model building! Sincerely, Gary LeClerc Owner of Stripwell I did take the survey, and that is where I described (in detail) the problems I experienced. I have not heard anything from Stripwell after that. I'm not really looking for any reimbursement from QCS. I'm simply not going to use the product on plastic or resin anymore.

Here are links to some good discussions on scale spark plug wire sources: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/173582-best-spark-plug-wire-size/ http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/140409-plug-wires/ http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/177170-what-do-you-use-for-spark-plug-wiring/ http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/118027-spark-plug-wire/ There are also many more related threads on the forum.

If you mean one of those Ziploc bags, they might not work. they are not even truly hermetically sealed, and some solvents can permiate through the plastic those bags are made of. Better would be an empty metal paint can, or a pickle jar.

Scott, it is not that the quality isn't there - the problem is when the craftsman resin caster who produced excellent quality casting close shop, there are no qualified fastidious people who could take over their business to keep producing quality castings. After all, "losing resin manufacturers" is the theme of this thread. 3D printing is a whole new ball of wax. Even if excellent quality 3D prints were used as masters to cast resin copies, whoever is making those resin casts can still produce inferior bubble-ridden copies if they do not have their casting process perfected or they are sloppy people. Remember, this thread is about resin casters.

That's a good news. Will the new rims have more accurate cross-section profile (like I mentioned in my earlier post), or just straight beveled, like what's shown in the recent photos from Daniel?

This is likely due to very dry air in your workshop (like I have here in the winter). Some hair dryers have ion generators built-in. It is for dissipating static electricity (so your hair doesn't stand like you have been zapped by million volts). Make sure to check the package mentioned ion generator or "antistatic". It probably wont cost you more than $20, and you can use it on your hair too. Fond one of those at your local Walmart and see if blowing it (at its coolest setting) will dissipate the static. Or maybe wait until the ambient air gets less dry.

The typical advice is (since you haven't mentioned it): have you tried to clear the cookies and cache in your browsers?

Yup, here is mine (bought 2 bottles last June). This is the damage it did on the printer case where I tried to remove the splatter of Minwax urethane clear. The printer's case is bare ABS plastic. I placed QCS-soaked piece of facial tissue on the surface, and after about 5 minutes I lifted the tissue. What I found is that the surface of the plastic was almost melted - it was very soft and the natural texture was destroyed. I took the photo right after I lifted the tissue and realized there was a problem. It eventually dried, but the texture is ruined. If it works for you guys - that's great. But I won't use it on any styrene plastics again.

What exactly is too long? There were no instructions or suggestions included. The gold painted truck bed was in for probably about 15 minutes - I was checking on it every few minutes. The other one was a very old Revell seat painted probably 50 years ago. On this one the paint was not coming of. I scrubbed it with a brush, then put it back in for another few minutes, and scrubbed again. When the paint was still not fully coming off but I noticed that the plastic surface was getting soft. There was another item I tried. I have a computer printer where some Minwax urethane clear got splattered (small dots). The printer's case is made from ABS (type of polystyrene also used by some model companies). Since I could not immerse it in the stripper, I took a piece of facial issue, soaked it in the stripper and placed over the affected area. I checked about 5 minutes later and while the splatter was not affected, the plastic surface was already "melting". Like I mention, the manufacturer contacted me mentioning that others had experienced problems and asked my for my input (which I provided). I will not use this product on any plastic or resin models again. This product appears to be designed to strip finishes from wood surfaces (furniture). I suspect that the version for stripping models is the same chemical but the bottles are relabeled.

Yes the color of that Vette is rather subtle. Almost like khaki camo. Probably helps avoiding police. I'm used to see cars in more lively colors (after all a Vette is an exotic car which should turn heads) like this:

I also tried this miracle plastic-safe pain stripper. While it strips paint it also affects polystyrene. It seems to slightly swell it and makes the surface really soft. The surface was so soft that if I poked at it with a fingernail, it would leave an impression, and even a stiff brush left bristle marks. Fortunately I only tried 2 items, but I thought the items were ruined. Ever after rinse (with dish washing detergent), the softened items had strong smell of the stripping solution. I figured that I had nothing to lose, and I placed them on my furnace to see if they will "dry". The surface of my furnace is just warm (not hot). After few days the surfaces of the stripped pieces did become hard again, so I managed to save them. But I will never use that stripper on my plastic models again. Funny thing is that the company that makes the stripper emailed stating that they have heard of some modelers having problems stripping plastic models and they also asked me to fill out a survey. I did that, telling them of my experience, but never heard anything back from them. I'm curious about what recycling number your damaged plastic container had? I used a container made from polypropylene (recycling symbol #5) and it was unaffected by the stripping solution. Actually the stripping solution is still in that container (for about 5 or 6 months now) and it is unaffected.

When things in my browser are weird or intermittent I clear the browser's cookies and cache. Often that takes care of the problem (getting rid of stale data).

Not only that, but resin casting is an art form. Someone has to be skilled and fastidious to produce good castings. Norm from RMCoM or Don from Modelhaus are/were perfect examples. Unfortunately (as Ace-Garage guy Bill often reminds us), craftsmanship and fastidiousness have for most part become a thing of the past. There are many resin casters still out there, producing mediocre products. I'm afraid that once those good casters retire, good resin castings will be a thing of the past. Yes, 3D printing (either at home or someone selling printed parts) is the way of the future, but the quality is still not there.

They're just bunch of LIARS, if you ask me. They usually attend the show my club puts on. They are good guys.

While those wire wheels with very fine spokes look amazing, why not make the spokes slightly thicker? They would still look good, and be mode sturdy. Probably easier to print too. Randy's wheels had slightly thicker spokes, but with the interlaces spoke layout, they still look amazingly well. I really wish these were available again. It would also be rally nice to have larger diameter 3D printed wheels for the '20s and '30s cars like Packards and Duesies.

Alzheimer's is a type of dementia. Dementia is just an umbrella term for many types of brain disorders. Quoting https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dementia Several diseases and injuries to the brain such as a stroke can give rise to dementia. However, the most common cause is Alzheimer's disease, a neurodegenerative disorder.

That is very interesting. Thanks for the photo Bill. I assume that there are also bunch of supports for the hub. I also see that there are some print failures, but hopefully not too many. I wonder if the failure rate was what made Randy from Model Builder's Warehouse stopped making and selling them?

Since I already participated in this thread earlier and saw your advice, I simply gave my opinion, based on my experience.

I've been dealing with my mom for the last 3 years. There are no meds which will cure this - only possibly slow down its progress. There are some stories I could tell you about what she does. The fact that she is also paranoid doesn't help any. All I can say that her problem is likely harder on my mental well-being than it is on hers.

True, it will remove water-based acrylics, but it will also attack the paint on the outside of the model. The question asked seemed to indicate that they want to selectively remove any overspray of the interior acrylic paint, without affecting the outside finish. Also the person asking this question is in Poland. Not sure if LA Awesome is available there.

Yes, that has been covered. LA Awesome contains Lye, which is the chemical that actually "eats" aluminum "chrome" and can also soften the clear undercoat.

Anybody remember Rusty Jones or Ziebart rustproofing systems? They were quite popular in the New England area in the '70s and '80s. I remember stickers on cars showing that they were rustproofed. But today's cars seem to be quite more rust resistant, even in the salty New England, even without any additional rustproofing applied. Whatever they do at the factory seems to work well.

Yes, there is a concurrent thread about it with a more descriptive (than Huh?) subject line.

Excellent!