peteski

I never had problems with BMF decal paper (and Alps printed decals). I don't overcoat the decal before application since Alps wax ink is waterproof. You should not need the overcoat either, as laser printer toner is also waterproof. Only decals printed with ink jet on ink jet paper have to be overcoated as ink jet inks are water soluble. Also are you sure you are using laser compatible decal paper (not ink jet compatible)?

Ok, what a wonderful advice. Thank you *SO* much. ? The problem is that I enjoy participating in this section - just kill all the death notices.

Sure, 32AWG and smaller. That is what Detail Master wires are. The problem is that those companies are geared to deal with industries, not with individual sales. So someone like Detail Master or ProTech figured out what companies make the wire then buy the wire in bulk, and repackage it in small lengths for hobbyists. If you could find out the wire manufacturer's info and bought the wire in bulk (like 1000' at a time) then you would have the wire for much cheaper cost per foot than what the Detail Master charges. But then what would you do with a 1000' of single color wire? Cut it up, package it and sell it to the hobbyists? That takes time and money. We should be glad that there are Detail Masters and ProTechs selling the fine wire in small quantities (for a reasonable price). In the past I needed a larger quantity of the ProTech ignition wire to use for a model RR project (actually using the wire in its intended purpose to conduct electricity), and he was willing to sell me the wire in longer lengths than what he normally sells for a slightly discounted price.

On eBay? If yes, then the asking prices have nothing to do with "real" prices. To get more realistic numbers you would have to look for the competed auction prices.

The Real Estate market has been in a "bubble" of extremely high prices for few years now. As I understand it was due to the demand caused by (what else) COVID, and very low mortgage rates. Similar bubble happened several years ago. Buyers were in a bid wars offering to pay over the asking prices. At least in some parts of the country. But the inflated prices were likely seen everywhere. The bubble will burst (like it did last time this happened) and house prices will come down to a bit more reasonable level. Actually the bubble seem do be deflating even now (partially due to the mortgage rates going up). As others have mentioned house prices should not be really considered when comparing prices from the past to now.

Yeah, the muggy weather is the pits! It's been in the upper 90s here for several days, and dew point in the 70s (tropical). We did have a brief t-storm here, which only things even more humid. No need to live in Florida - we have their weather in Boston. Summer? Neah, I prefer Spring and Autumn, but those seem to get shorter and shorter every year.

You must have "our" rain. Northeast USA is in drought. But mosquitoes aren't as bothersome as other years.

Bill, we are talking about your hobby here: Building and painting model car kits. Something you really enjoy (or you wouldn't be doing it). Why not splurge a bit or the activity you enjoy? Other's spend lots of money on much more expensive hobbies like golf, boating, or car racing. Our hobbies cost fraction of what those people spend on theirs. There are likely plenty of other things you could be a cheapskate about.

And I will again, for the umpteenth time have to reply with: I HAVE NO PROBLEM SKIPPING THE CONTENTS OF THE OBIT POSTS, BUT I CAN'T NOT-SEE THE CONTINUOUSLY APPEARING "DEARLY DEPARTED" SUBJECT LINES IN THIS SECTION OF THE FORUM. KAPISH?

Charlie, I'm curious: do you use an airbrush in your hobbies, or just spray cans and brush paint?

That's my point exactly. Now it you get a entry-level job of making fries at McDonald's you will probably get $15/hr. So that $30 price for a kit does not seem all that high anymore. I wish people understood who inflation works. No more penny candy either.

Thanks for the info David.

The subject of current high kit and supplies prices seems to come up often here. Does anybody bother to compare the incomes (salary) from when the $1.39 kits were available to your current income. Doing that will lessen the pain of the high prices.

Those look a but thick to me, but if it works for you . . .

Since the rules are clearly stated in the initial post (even before the photo), I'm really surprised anybody would miss that.

Yes, I rather see cat or dog photos here, than a bunch of death notices.

Old news. This obit has been already covered Since Sunday.

There is nothing wrong using multiple materials or techniques - that is a indication of a good modeler not afraid to try different materials to achieve the desired goal.

Enamel is expensive? Any paint sold as a hobby paint is rather pricey, but Testors enamels are not all that pricey (if you can find them). But paint does not need to be an enamel to go on smoothly. Painting technique is the key. If it goes on too dry, you either holding the airbrush too far from the model, the paint is not thin enough, the air pressure is too high, or the nozzle is too small. Or a combination of those things. In my experience the air pressure you use is good, so I would say it is the other things I mentioned. I'm always surprised how many modelers have problems like this (paint too dry or orange peel). Modelers have to have enough balls and spray the paint heavy and wet. Sort of like it comes out of a spray can, but using airbrush allows more control of the process. I use a basic Badger 200 airbrush and I rarely have any problems. The "secret" is to keep the paint volume high enough for the solvent not to evaporate while traveling from the nozzle to the model. Open up that needle and let the pain flow. I do admit that it is a fine line between a smooth wet coat, and getting runs in the paint. That is where experience comes in. Experiment on plastic spoons, empty soda bottles or Speed Shapes until you get the hang of laying down a smooth coat (without runs). First coat or two can be sprayed on lighter and drier (to build up a paint on the surface for the subsequent wet layers. Again, practice is the key.

Ok, so those kits seem to have shared some parts. That makes sense. The Creepy-T (first and later releases) also uses 2-piece polystyrene rear slicks molded from the same plastic as the rest of the kit. All the styrene parts (including the slicks) glow in the dark either blue/purple and recent ones green). The name molded in the slicks' sidewall was "THUMBSTONE". What I am interested in is whether the recent Mummy Machine release (your kit) still uses glow-in-the-dark styrene for its parts? Also in your kit are the rear slicks the same as in the older releases or are those now soft vinyl tires?

. . . and of course to state the obvious, if we consider scales other than 1:24/25, (like 1:43, 1:32, 1:16, 1:12, 1:8, or others) the wire used need be scaled appropriately.

Welcome to the forum Kelly. You didn't mentioned, so I'll ask: What type of models do you build, and how long have you been in the hobby? Nice to have someone here with your stills. You could likely provide some inside info as far as making tooling for injection molded models. Sometimes the subject comes up, but there aren't many members here directly involved in this type of manufacturing. EDIT: I just found a thread about your Pro Street Ford - very nice!

Good to see one of those kits in a WIP thread (and learning the kit's history). Back in the day I built the Creepy-T. It was molded in a glow-in-the-dark plastic which glows blue. Very unusual. That model is long gone, but I bought a more recent reissue. That one is molded in plastic that glows green. I wonder if the Mummy Machine kit is also molded in glow-in-the-dark plastic? You are doing a really good job of making this kit look more realistic. I like it!

Even $10 in USA seems crazy! Heck, those could be shipped standard First Class mail in a letter-size envleope (or larger envelope if the decal is larger. That should cost what regular 1st class mail costs, plus cost of the envelope. Nowhere near $10. But it is eBay . . .

I agree - thinner paint, lower air pressure, smaller distance. Nozzle might come into play too.