peteski

Yeah, I miss the days when you had to not only pay insertion price just to create the listing, but also percentage of the opening bid. That is why so many auctions back then had opening bid of a penny. EBay is like wast wasteland nowadays, full of commercial sellers and opportunists hoping for suckers. The search engine also stinks, and all the "helpful" similar items to the one you are viewing are also very annoying.

Yes, as you well described it, there are many ways to skin that "cat". I still wonder if the question is about doing it on a touch screen device (which I do not use).

When I try, even if the quote box has text in it, if the cursor is under the quote, the Backspace key deletes the whole thing at once. Again, on a PC in a Web Browser. Many people use smart devices and those probably behave differently.

I have never sanded or rubbed out base or clear coat of any of the models I have ever built (sans for some occasional spot sanding and touch-up of some schmutz that got into the original paint job. I find my models glossy enough for my own taste, and many have placed first or 2nd in model contests. If I had to resort to sanding, I would not enjoy this hobby enough to stay in it. Primer: Tamiya Fine White Primer. Base coat: Nail Polish. Stripes: AccuPaint White. Clear Coat: Testors Wet-look Clear. No sanding no buffing, no rubbing. Maybe I'm just lucky. My "Secret" probably is that I airbrush minimal number of coats using heavy application. The paint self-levels.

If you are using a PC you should be able to delete the quote from the "compose" window just as you would delete a word or a picture. If on a tablet/phone, I have no idea. I just tried here by quoting you. If I place the cursor right under the quote, then press the Backspace key, it deletes the whole quote. Like I mentioned, a quote is just another object (liek a picture).

They might have been out of stock for quite some time. Last time I bought some was probably about a year ago, and at that time Randy had issues producing them and didn't know when the would be available again. They are really nice wire wheels. 3D printing is the only way one can achieve true interlaced spokes. Photoetched spokes can't emulate that.

You answered your own question. Yes, they likely get the wire from industrial suppliers who sell the wire in bulk. It probably comes in 1000' reels, and it costs probably more than you're willing to pay (or use in your lifetime). Then companies like Detail Master repackage that stuff in modeler-friendly lengths. Repackaging takes time, and some additional profit is also to be made to keep the company in business, so the price for small packages is higher than what the original wire cost.

It is not about your true skills, but about how many tools you own! Granted, I regularly use 2 pairs, but the other ones do come in handy from time to time. And I always know where all my tweezers are. Well, almost always. ...

Tweezers with very sharp pointed jaws work too (similar to using a knife, except then you can grab the edge of the mask and pull it).

Very handy fifteen dollar tool, and accurate to 0.001"! Nice! For that price you can even afford to have multiple digital calipers.

Yes, a watchmaker's apron is an excellent idea. I had a strip of fuzzy Velcro sewn into the lower edge, and I stuck strip of the hooky part of Velcro under my bench. It works quite well and it is easy to fasten/unfasten.

Wasn't the "new Coke" just relabeled Pepsi?

Save the environment (and the plastic trees)?

Very nice build! I like the color you chose. That kit is quite good (Tamiya IMO does not make bad kits), but yes it is vintage, and while it has full engine, the details are sparse. Again, typical Tamiya thing - parts are very well molded and fit well, but the details are sparse for someone who likes detailed engine bay. That is how I expect a Tamiya kit to be. That kit has the best molded 1-piece plastic wire wheels I have ever seen.

Dave, is this the newly released ex-snapper kit that was discussed last month (just how bad it is and how high of a price it has) . Too bad you didn't see that thread. There were lots of warnings in it. But yours came out looking quite good (at least in the photos).

I did not know that. I guess the plate that was used for the rest of the series was what stuck in my mind.

I really enjoyed watching that show. Nice model! But wasn't the license plate on the show "ROBIN.1" as it was one of Robin Masters' car?

I agree that soft and sticky (uncured) resin is usually caused by not fully mixing the 2 parts or by the resin being past its expiration date (or both). 5 years is way past the resin's useful life. I'm surprised that the castings were not full of tiny bubbles. One of the resin's components absorbs moisture from the air (even if stored in what appears to be sealed container) and that causes those tiny bubbles to form when resin is curing. You probably live in very dry environment.

That is what I was thinking. To me it looked like an Australian version of some American make. But is ended up being an European "relative". It definitely has lots of "American flavor".

That statement is so very true, especially when it comes to viewpoints which aren't to be discussed here.

That's old news. As it was explained in some related threads here, that happened due to material supplies issues related to COVID (like most things in the last 2 years). At this point BMF is back to its original formula, but some hobby shops might still have the subpar stuff. Order directly from BMF.

Alps printers can print satin silver and also chrome-like silver foil. The letters look like one of the standard typefaces (font), so they could likely be easily reproduced.

This is a Romanian version of a Polish fighter plane https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PZL_P.11 One of the first kits I built in my childhood (in nearly '70s) was that aircraft. Not this specific kit, but a Polish made kit. Mine had wheeled landing gear. The kit included a small vial of liquid cement but no paint. Some good memories here.

Well done! Makes me want to build that one too. I seem to recall some time ago someone else on this forum has built one of these. I don't recall that one being illuminated.

Even with that "orange label" Tamiya cement you might still end up with a problem of long term slow-evaporating solvent. But worth a try.