peteski

Few weeks ago I had to take a photo of this incredible sunset (taken at Manchester, NH airport)

The post I linked to in my previous post is evaluating that chrome foil. It is also rather thick.

Sorry to hear of your loss Joe. Pets are family members, just like humans. My cat passed away at 20 years. It was very sad. She was paralyzed (probably from a stroke) I was also present til her last moments and it was just like losing a close relative. I still get choked up thinking about it (and it was quite a few years ago). Just remember all the good times you all had with Fmeep.

I would recommend regular JB Weld epoxy. The slow-setting stuff. Or whatever epoxy Ace recommended would likely work even better. The key to a strong bond is absolute cleanliness of the joint (both styrene and metal) and light scuffing of the surfaces. I would scuff the metal (brass, aluminum, or other) and styrene with some 180 grit sandpaper, then clean/degrease the metal using acetone or lacquer thinner. For plastic I would use a milder solvent like Naphtha, or even 91% (or stronger) Isopropyl alcohol. After doing all that you should have a strong bond.

Interesting. It is labeled as specifically for photoetched parts. Is it possible that it is just repackaged canopy glue?

Few years ago I ordered couple of Scale Finishes paints (Enamel). When I did the spoon test they dried, but remained soft. After couple of months I contacted Scale Finishes about the problem and I was given a bottle of hardener. So it does need a hardener to fully harden. I found surprising that this was not mentioned anywhere on the website. At that point both projects were mothballed, so I never actually tested the hardener. It eventually hardened in the bottle. This is what I have:

True, we have been involved with Alps MicroDry printers, and decal design and printing for many years.

Agreed.

While I have no way to measure the height of the raised lettering either on the model or on 1:1 tires, I will venture a guess that the model tire lettering protrudes more than if it was scaled exactly from 1:1 tire. But sometimes we have to do that in a model for tings to work out correctly.

So what exactly is the difference between ink and paint?

Ah, more backhand comments. Really?! LUKE- GET OFF MY BACK! I have enough of you badgering (in public and in PM) to show off my work. Besides, why is it so important for you to see proof that I am building some automotive model now? If you really want to know, I have not built any car models for few years. Last one was my Monogram Ultimates 289 Cobra. I am currently concentrating on another one of my many hobbies, but that doesn't mean that my model building kits skills and experience have just evaporated. I can still build them, discuss techniques and ask inquisitive (annoying to some) questions. But thank you for the Scale Riders link.

Hey Rob, thanks for very informative tutorial. Next time I have to cast something I'll give it a try (since I already have vacuum pump and chamber I use for de-airing the RTV. Vacuum method seems simpler than pressure casting, and simpler (since only vacuum is needed). I wonder how it would work for things like car bodies (which need 2-part molds)? I'm just theorizing since I have only been casting using single-piece open molds (like like what you are using). I hope Wick doesn't mind me butting in on his thread asking my own questions.

Their website has good photos of the items they sell. Here is the VW set's page: https://www.zoomonmodel.com/product-page/zd017

A member of this forum referred me to that company (in Hong Kong) for some metal sticker Mercedes scripts and logos. Their website is https://www.zoomonmodel.com . They have a fairly wider range of model details and supplies. The website is fairly easy to browse, and ordering is also easy. They take PayPal. Don't let the prices scare you - they are in Hong Kong Dollars. For example the sheet of those Mercedes scripts is priced at HK$32.00 which is currently about US$4.08 (which is rather inexpensive for this type of item). I ended up ordering a bunch of items. Shipping cost (to USA) was HK$140.00 (US$17.84) and it took about 2 weeks to arrive. What a great find! Here are some of the items I ordered. The relief-etched set to 50 US license plates looks really interesting, but the decals seem a bit thick, so I don't know how well it will conform to the plate's surface. But make sure to order 2 sets since only single plate from each state is included. I didn't, so I'll have to get another set.

Rob, from what I see it appears that your method is similar to pressure casting. Basically you pour the resin into the open end of the mold, then you put it in a vacuum. If there are bubbles or air pockets in the liquid resin, they will bubble up to the top. Correct? I think I like that. I wonder why it is not more popular in USA? It likely takes some time to evacuate the air. What is the setting time for the resin you use? You likely also vaccum the liquid RTV when making the molds?

I don't think anybody here is trying to fix anything -- we are simply stating that there are alternatives, not discouraging the use of MCW products. And as I mentioned, my original post actually was discouraging from using the touch-up paints. Also orange-peel problem is most often caused by the spray painting technique (method of spraying and thinning the paint), not by the paint itself.

The post I linked to also shows the difference in sheen between the various foils. Yes, I'm sure the MIG aluminum foil has its place in the arsenal of adhesive foils, as does the aluminum duct tape.

I caught a partial eclipse of the moon in January 2019.

I guess you misunderstood my post. I mentioned that while automotive touch-up paints are used by some, the metallic particles are usually out of scale. That implies that I would *NOT* recommend them (although I have used them in the past). I believe the MCW and other similar paints for the hobby market are derived from the same automotive paints used on 1:1 cars. They are just sold in small quantities and thinned (reduced) to be airbrush ready.

being 0.0015" instead of 0.0005" is much more than 1.5 times. It is 3 times as thick. Also thicker might mean more forgiving, but also not as pliable and stretchy (so it will not conform as well to features like scripts. BMF chrome is also *NOT* aluminum foil. it is some sort of liw melt temperature alloy which is very stretchy. We already have a thread on BMF and all the alternatives. The MIG foil review is in

Yes that method (or simply buying small bottles of automotive touch-up paints at the car parts store) is a way to get the exact colors. But sometimes in metallic particles of the 1:1 scale paints look out of scale when applied to a 1:24 model. This problem is usually not noticed when viewing the model in person, but it really shows up in close-up photos.

Oh I believe you Charlie. I'm sure the tire and lettering look fine. What I"m saying is that if you had a way to measure how far the lettering protrudes from the sidewall on your tire, it would probably be exaggerated when compare to the 1:1 tire. That doesn't mean it is a bad thing.

What I was saying is that on the tire Scott showed, some of the details on the 1:1 tire is likely so low-relief that if accurately scaled it would barely be noticeable. It will likely have to be slightly exaggerated to look "right" in the scaled down tire. I suspect that the Good Year logo on your tires was also slightly exaggerated, but not enough to stand out. Many model kit tires (especially the vinyl tires from the '70's kits had grossly exaggerated brand lettering). It takes more than just accurately scaling down everything for a model to look "right". Some details need to be tweaked. It is a bit of an art form.

I'm not talking about eBay, but about USPS in general. I have USPS account and when I go to print a shipping label, I have to enter the date when I'll be shipping the package. I always put that actual day I'll be dropping it off at the PO (which is almost always either the same day, or the next day after printing the label). To If you track that label, it will sow as "label created". I have never tried holding the package few days past the shipping date I entered. What would happen if I didn't mail the package? Probably nothing. It is not like someone from USPS will come knocking on my door asking "where is that package you were supposed to ship 3 days ago?". It likely just stays in "label created" state until the PO receives and scans it.

I wouldn't follow those pictorial instructions, I always stir and swirl clockwise!