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Posts posted by peteski

  1. They also lose mail too. I once paid a bill and it never got paid. Then the following month I get a bill that's two months charge plus a $20 late fee for the previous month. The lost check was never cashed.

    With millions of mail pieces they go through every day, stuff like that can happen. It happened to me too.  I also had a package from Japan (non-tracked) lost in the mail for few months. Finally I received a large envelope from USPS which contained the top of the package box and an official form stating that the package got damaged and that the box top was the only thing from the package they found.

  2. My trick (pretty sure I invented it, 'cause I've never heard anyone else doing it) is to scrub the tire with a coarse abrasive cleanser (like OLD Comet...the "scratch free" stuff is useless), hot water and a toothbrush. Elbow grease, effort. De-shines ALL the tire, including down in the tread groves.

    You're welcome.   :D

    I've done that too (honest). :D  It does take lots of elbow grease.

    I was also contemplating spraying the tread with Dullcote, to dull the grooves, then using sandpaper to to scuff the rest of the tread, but I have not tried that.

  3. Maybe it's just me, but it seems the majority of the responses deal with precision milling of metal material. The OP also wants to work with styrene. My gut tells me a Sherline might be overkill for styrene.


    When making scale model parts (either 1:6 or 1:700 scale) precision is a good thing.  It is not an overkill for styrene. Like Art I have owned my Sherline since the '80s and have upgraded it multiple times.

    This 1:160 (N scale) model I built has the headlights turned out of styrene rod (painted with Alclad II brass) while the bell, siren, and the water nozzle (on the running board) are turned out of brass.



  4. Steven, that is a brilliant idea.  I too struggle with putting foil on my kits and never thought about using painters tape as a guide.

    I can vouch vouch for that technique too. I've been using it for years and I thought I invented it.  :D But obviously others had the same bright idea.  The other good thing about that technique is that the tape automatically (and cleanly) pulls up the extra foil.

  5. As Art mentioned, 3D printed prototype mock-up are already being extensively used in the industry. 3D-printed masters for resin or pewter cast models are also already used by several companies.  In time I'm sure that more and more companies (or cottage industries) will be using that technology.  There are several 3D printing technologies and dozens of printers which vary in printting resolution from really coarse to so fine that the printed items look like they have been injection-molded. Of course the cost of the fine-resolution printouts are much higher than the low-res ones.  But if used as a master, it pays to invest in a high-res printout.

  6. You're killin' me Harry! I was really good not buying any more kits (I have more than I can build in my lifetime, and here you go and post your build of this car. I was ale to resist until you showed lacing the wheels. Those are gorgeous! Now I want to get that model kit - even if only to learn this very interesting lacing technique to make it work on some custom wheels I would like to make for some of my other kits.

    So I went on eBay and I found one of these kits listed, ending at 11pm EDT. I ended up gettign it for $41. I think I got a bargain. Now I can learn that lacing technique (and maybe even build this cool model someday). :)

  7. I'm a bit confused about this voltage gauge thing.  In the cars I have dealt with a voltage gauge is a voltmeter hooked up to the main power distribution junction in the car.  It doesn't specifically read the alternator but the overall health of the 12V electrical system.  If that type of a gauge dropped to zero volts your car would stall as there would not be any power available to power the engine ignition or rest of the cars electrical circuit. Usually when alternator no longer charges the battery the voltage drops from around 14V to under 12V (since it is running just from the battery).

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