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Posts posted by peteski
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On 12/25/2017 at 9:08 AM, Nudel said:
I got my Revell Panamera on Friday.
Overall a nice kit, but with some issues:
- Sinkmarks on the rear and a grubby mold overall - you have to sand and prime a lot
- Its high as a SUV, you have to lower the suspension, especially on the rear
- Chassis with very low detail
In opposite, the interior looks nice and is very well detailed
Rims and tires are more or less o.k., better than in the past - but I hope Plamoz will make new rims, especially the 21" versions.
Sorry for my english and kind regards from Germany,
Daniel
Thanks for the info Daniel - your English is fine.
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You could try casting it out of translucent milky resin. Or just paint it flat white, mask the top to the level of the fluid and spray it with more white with just a bit of the color of the fluid (blue, green, yellow, red, or whatever) mixed in. That will simulate the fluid visible through the tank walls. I used the paint trick on coolant and washer fluid reservoirs of a 1:25 scale Chevy S-10 truck. It looks pretty realistic to me. This photo only shows the coolant tank. I suppose I could have made it even more realistic by adding tiny bit of black to the stark white paint. That would look even more like the plastic used for those tanks.
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1 hour ago, highway said:
The difference in parts count is at least, in part, to the tires in the kit. The original that I found on eBay when I was researching that the Heller was in fact the old AMT kit also had this pic in the listing.
The AMT, at least in this issue and the ones I remember from having nearly 30 years ago, had one piece vinyl tires just like their 1/25th and 1/32nd scale counterparts. The Heller version oddly has 2 piece plastic tires, but that does help explain at least some of the addition in the parts count.
Interesting - thanks!
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I'm wits Steve: I often use a strip of masking tape applied to a model as an edge for the knife to follow when I cut the foil. This works even when there is no edge on the model to follow (since the tape acts as a nice sharp edge). This technique works very well.
For example, on these 1:32 scale models that is how I trimmed the top edge of the fin on the blue Caddy
And again, the chrome on the edge of the fin.
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13 hours ago, Pete J. said:
Peteski, thanks for the tip. I didn't notice how easy it was to pick the topics in the new software. Yes, that is a great way to do it. Not a fan to slogging through stuff that has little or no interest for me.
You're welcome! But this functionality existed even before the update. I have been a member here for several years and this is how I always read the forum: I pick only new messages I'm interested in and only in the specific sections I frequent. I do the same on couple of other forum I participate in.
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Anatomically correct teddy-bear? LOL
All those are pretty creative - I didn't know there were so many out there. The old MassCar club logo was a parts tree too ( I don't have it handy). Then there is
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22 hours ago, highway said:
It would be a good guess, because Heller has also reboxed AMT kits. This Heller Peterbilt 359 and trailer
is actually this old AMT kit.
Heller also offered the Peterbilt Holmes wrecker and the Kenworth K100 from the old 1/43rd scale AMT truck lineup.
Wow, I never seen any of the 1:43 scale truck kits. Funny that each version shows different part count on the box.
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I go only to the sections I'm interested in, and read only the new posts in the threads I'm interested in. Then I mark each forum section read. At the end of the session I mark the entire site as read.
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This thread is actually funny!
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Yes, the tires will be easiest to deal with. The Styrofoam could have embedded itself in the (still soft) paint. If that's the case, then there won't be much that can be done to save the paint job. Unfortunately the solvents which would melt Styrofoam (polystyrene) also attack paints. If Snake's ideas don't work, I think the only way to deal with will be mechanical abrasion (scraping or sanding, then polishing out the paint). But if the paint is metallic, that will probably affect the paint's color.
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Flat or glossy black - doesn't matter, since on the outside (when applied to the inside of the "glass") it will look glossy.
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As mentioned above, all the color (CYMK) computer printers (laser, ink jet) which are designed for printing on (white) paper use translucent inks (except for black which is naturally opaque). Color decals printed on those printers will not show correct colors when applied to a non-white model surface. The white undercoat is needed for those inks to show up properly on a non-white model.
There was a consumer-grade printer available which was capable of printing white ink and overlaying colr inks on top of white. It is the Alps MicroDry (MD) printers. They are no longer being made, but there are still quite a few of them around in hands of hobbyists and custom decal manufacturers. I'm an Alps owner, and I print my own decals.
As far as artwork goes, the best quality artwork is vector-based (not bitmaps like TIF, BMP or PNG). And JPG is also not really suitable because it is a lossy format.
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On 12/23/2017 at 8:27 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:
Anybody got any pix?
Or better yet - a video of the process?
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Um, I didn't quite get that either (who is the boss). He didn't make it clear and I guess I don't frequent this section often enough to know the inside stories. So that is in dog years? Happy Birthday then!
I once saw a T-shirt which stated "In dog years I'm dead". That was funny!
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Nice! Brilliant method of making those floor mats!
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8 hours ago, Mike999 said:
Sheesh. I guess Peteski is right above, when he said these sellers "simply don't care" and are looking for "a fool to buy it." I just find these outrageous prices fascinating. I can imagine Mr. Spock, glaring at eBay and mumbling, "Totally illogical."
EBay created this problem by not charging listing fees or the starting bid amount fee (like they used to, back in the earlier days of eBay). If nobody buys their overpriced item, the seller can just re-list the same item over and over (for years) with no cost incurred. If eBay still had the old pricing structures, the seller woudl have dish out some money every time the item was listed and re-listed. Nobody in their right mind would be listing stuff for outrageous prices.
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The problem here is that this young generation we are discussing here is the future population of our
countryplanet! Hopefully we won't still be alive to see how they handle that responsibility. -
On 12/14/2017 at 3:20 PM, Mike C said:
Plus there are flat earthers. Those people literally are too stupid to know they are stupid. AND they think they are smart. Like they know global earth is a conspiracy. LOL.
But they are smart enough to create computer animations of their view about how the universe behaves. From what I understand, some of their beliefs are based on religion (even though the Catholic religion has long abandoned the idea that the flat earth is the center of the universe). I wonder how these people explained the recent full solar eclipse? Another conspiracy?
Then, as already mentioned, there are individuals believing that humans never landed on the moon. They supposedly have plenty of proof (including photographic evidence) that it was all faked on earth. Plus no human can supposedly survive in outer space (beyond the Van Allen Belt). My co-worker (whom I consider intelligent but odd) is one of those not believing in the moon landing. But he is not a flat-earther.
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What irked me? I just noticed a prayer request here for the first time. I just hope that this forum doesn't become another Spotlight Hobbies forum. I suspect that certain portion of the forum's members is not religious, and to me this subject would belong under "politics and religion" category (which is not welcome here).
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17 hours ago, vintagerpm said:
At any rate, my real point was that the paint under the Alclad needs to be glossy. Alclad directly on Tamiya primer will not give the best look. (I do agree with 935K3 that I have no idea why the Alclad would attack the Tamiya primer.)
Not under every Alclad II paint - only under the the ones which give you polished metal finish (like Chrome).
Most Alclad II paints can be applied to a surface with any type of finish and they will produce a metallic look with the texture of the underlying paint. Sometimes a rough surface is desired (like an aluminum transmission casting, or aluminum intake manifold for example). You can even apply the Alcald II paints which are designed to be applied over glossy undercoat to a satin or flat surface and whey will still give you metallic color, but without the polished look.
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Teflon (which is what the needle seal in a Badger airbrush is made of) is impervious to most solvents you will have in your workshop.Actually all the seals that are in the paint path of that airbrush are Teflon, so you don't have to worry about that at all.
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Be careful when using a higher power UV light sources - don't look at them and even better, protect your eyes. These lamps are not like the old fashion black-light bulbs which are fairly safe (as any '70s hippie can attest to). Wear UV-filtering glasses. Safest would probably be the eye protection used in tanning booths. Those "glasses" use very dark green lenses.
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On 12/16/2017 at 7:57 PM, Mike999 said:
They seem to think we're too stupid to look at "Completed Items," and figure out the real fair value of the kit or parts.
Neah, that has nothing to do with this. Those sellers know exactly what those kits are worth and how much kits sells for. They simply don't care. They keep listing and re-listing their item for the outrageous price hoping for a fool to buy it. They can do this because their eBay account allows them to list without paying any fees and re-list the item, also for free. So they just let it ride for months or years at a time.
While not a plastic model kit, I have been watching a 1:64 scale American Graffiti '77 T'bird model listed for $130!! https://www.ebay.com/itm/291025513310 This listing has been active for about 3 years now (yes, you read it correctly)! This is all while in the meantime get notified of the same model being listed and sold in eBay for around $10 - $30 all the time (I have an automatic search set up). When I first encountered that listing (years ago) I contacted the seller pointing them to a listing with the identical model which just sold for $20 and asked them what makes their model worth $130. As expected, I got no reply.
Cord Sedan
in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
Posted
Do you happen to know what happened with his molds and master patterns? And photo-etched spoke wheels? I would lover to get my hands on some of the master patterns for the tires he cast. His castings were full of huge air bubbles, but if we had the masters we could get one of our good casters to start producing those tires again.
I've bough bunch of stuff from Guido years ago - he was always nice to me. When I was looking for some spoke wheels for my MG TC, he send me freebie prototype etchings for the wheels he was going to do for that model.