peteski

Thanks for clarifying. Meng mainly produces non-automotive kits, and Atlantis is also a bit of an oddball. Assuming your hobby shop mostly deals with automotive subjects. What is the pie slice between Hasegawa and MPC?

Sorry I'm not familiar with all the business accounting and marketing jargon. So in layman's terms volume means number of kits sold?

Does this represent the dollar amount collected from the sales of the company's kits or number of kits sold?

IF you don't shake the can, the pigment will be all settled on the bottom of the can. If you decant it without shaking it first (to mix the pigment back into the liquid), your paint will not work well. That is why cans have the glass marble in them - to agitate the settled pigment back into the liquid part of paint.

Since you apparently have access to that tire, why not write down all the lettering on the sidewall and post it here. Someone will likely be able to understand what it shows.

How about posting the links to those listings? Not like we are forbidden to do this here.

That makes a lot more sense. Seems that whoever created the instructions wasn't very familiar with the car's mechanical design.

Wile not an answer to your question, I'm wondering why a torque converter need an air intake? Torque converter is filled with transmission fluid.

Well, if both have similar amount of flatening agent, that is curious. I would have thought that the semi gloss clear should have half or less of the flattenign agent than the flat finish clear.

Wow! I have to ask: Are you sure you didn't mix them up? Or maybe MCW mixed up the labels? Flat clears are basically gloss clear with flattening agent mixed in. Something like talcum powder. I'm also curious: if you were to let both sit undisturbed for few days the flattening agent should settle on the bottom of the jar. Which one will show more flattening agent settled in the bottle? Should be the flat finish.

The color bleed is usually only with red or yellow color plastic, and only when using light color for the paint. It is also not just specifically with old kits. Some say that the problem doesn't exist, while others confirm that it does. There are several variables in play (including the type of paint used. It is not all cut-and-dry. When you asked for using metallic paints other than silver, what was the reason? If you want to use those as a barrier, any metallic paint might work well. Instead of asking a generic question, why not tell us more specifics? Like what kit is it, what color is it molded in, what you are planning as a final coat, and what brand/type of paint you want to use.

1. Well, look at how many fl. oz. is mentioned on the can and that is your answer (I would likely go a it larger). I never decanted an entire can. 2. The "settling" is not about being able to airbrush better. You need to understand the chemistry. The propellant gas in Testors spray paint is propane. But good portion of it is in a liquid state (just like in your grill's propane tank). As the pressure is released, some of it turns back to gas, keeping the can pressurized. When you rather abruptly release the pressure during decanting, some of the propellant remains in the liquid form for quite some time. If you were to close the jar of decanted paint, the pressure would build up (lie it does in the can). You need to keep the jar capped but unsealed to let the gas escape. I usually gently swish the paint from time to time. When I do that I can see the paint foam up when the gas gets released. How long, I have had decanted paint degas even couple of days later. Also, when decanting, the paint will foam up and turn very cold (as the propellant is released). You would be better off decanting into a larger container, then once degassed, pour it into a smaller jar/bottle. 3. If the jar has an airtight seal and it is pretty full (not much air space over the paint), it will last as long as any other paint in a jar. Spray paint is same as the stuff in the jars/bottles, except it is thinned. Lastly, if some of the binder (the resin body of the paint) seeped out, the paint's chemical balance has changed, and it might not work as well, but reading online info seems that it still works well.

That's disappointing. I thought you might be taking a survey for possible products.

The same is true for my '85 Caddy, and for pretty much all American cars with hood ornaments, probably since '50s or '60s. It was for the same reason you mentioned. The hood ornaments are sprung. True, contemporary cars have much shorter overhangs. That probably makes them more stable, and results in more usable passenger space.

My mom has dementia and while she doesn't remember neighbor's names or what she asked me less than minute ago (she repeats the same question over and over), she gets really focused when solving word puzzles. And she actually solves them. It's amazing how human brain works.

Mine is nowhere as large as its contemporary Feetwood Brougham, but after getting in it after driving my daily driver '19 Kia Soul, it sure feels like a big boat. Soft ride (but with 4 wheel independent suspension it handles corners surprisingly well, except for me sliding sideways on those couch seats ) and that long flat hood with a hood ornament like gunsight. And of course the large steering wheel with power steering needing lots of spinning to make a turn, but so easy that it can be spun with one finger.

They sure are. Mine are like sitting on a white-leather couch. It is a 60/40 split bench with folding center armrest. No buckets! And the car's sheet metal is really heavy. Those long heavy doors take some muscles to close! Nothing like any contemporary car. Oh, it also has a trunk lid pull-down so I don't need to slam the trunk lid shut. Then there are the self-leveling air shocks in the rear. The more I think about it, to more options I come up with. I just don't think about them when driving the car.

I didn't realize they still included cornering lights. I guess since they are integrated, the aren't as obvious as on my Caddy. Of course we cant; compare features of yours to one over 30 years old. Mine does have electronic climate control (which is a bit of a pain because it is too automatic), and of course computer controller throttle body fuel injection with a digital trip computer integrated with the climate control unit. It also has the automatic headligths. It also has a genuine Bose sound system with Dolby auto-reverse cassette tape, and with amps integrated with the speaker enclosures. Power antenna of course. No backup cameras though! I used to drive another '84 Eldorado Biarritz and that one had heated rear view mirrors (my '85 doesn't have those, or a rear window defroster, because it was a Florida car so those weren't added as options). My '84 did have a large glass "Astro Roof". It's amusing comparing 30+ year old technology to what we have today.

That sounds like great idea. I have considered something similar in the past. I don't think the slow speed is a problem as long as it keeps on moving. I would think even slower (liek 1 or 0.5 rpms) would be ok.

Same can be said for majority of today's (luxury) pickup trucks. Even the ones which look like off-road-ready likely never see anything but asphalt. Sure, there are some exceptions, but most are "Hey, look at me" vehicles.

Well, yeah, it's a Caddy after all - a luxury vehicle. No LEDs anywhere (unless I retrofit them). Now that you brought that up, cornering lamps seem to have disappeared from modern luxury cars. At least the ones I see driving around. Sure, they have proximity sensors up the wazoo all around, but nothing that illuminates the sides. It actually has driver's memory seat, digital dash gauges, 4-wheel disk brakes, and stabilizer bars front and rear. 4-wheel disks were pretty rare on luxury cars of that time. Of course it is FWD, but Eldorados have been FWD since the '60s.

However, I should have added that the '85 Caddy does use fiber optic cables as lamp monitor. All the head and tail-lights are monitored. A fiber optic is installed near each bulb, and the other end is in front located in the little protrusions on the top of the front fender, and in a little "console" over the back window. At night (or even in during the day for the taillights) you can quickly see if all the bulbs are working. Pretty clever setup (I've seen the lamp monitor system also used on other GM higher-class cars).

Yes, nowadays many cars use light pipes with LED illumination for many slick-looking lighting schemes. When a directional is turned on, the DRL LEDs on that side are turned off not to wash out the amber light. It is all thanks to those 30+ computers in your car controlling everything. No such fancy features on my '85 Caddy.

You probably meant: are the door plugs properly fastened?

Here it is: https://exactrail.com/products/x-vert-a-pac-autorack-drgw Unfortunately I don't believe it actually had Vegas inside. It was just empty shell.