peteski

Sure, but you aren't paying hosting fees like Model Cars Forum does. I've been involved with computers for a long time (my first computer came with 1 kB (1024 bytes) of RAM, and I have always been striving to minimize storage use. Nothing wrong with that.

@Dave Ambrose I'm a big proponent of resizing photos to a size that is "forum friendly". I usually use 1200 pixels across, and file size is usually much less than 0.5MB. Whenever I see a thread when a newbie is asking how to upload photos to the forum, I suggest resizing them first. I've seen some photos uploaded here with large enough resolution to print out a poster size print. It is not really necessary, and it eats up the server's storage space. I also realize that not everybody is tech-savvy to easily resize photos, or doesn' want to be bothered to do it. Does the forum software have a feature which would automatically resize photos to a forum friendly size? In a long run that would lessen the amount of server's storage space used up by photos. Another forum I frequent also hosts photos locally and has the automatic resizing feature enabled, it also increases the compression ratio on JPGs, so that further reduces storage requirement, and the photos still look decent. We are now here at half of Tera Byte. How long til we get to 1TB? Something to ponder . . .

I just tried. If I go to the very last page of topics in this section it shows threads from 2006!

Interesting. Then how do some users here find threads that are several years old and bring them back from the dead?

Unless there was a very good reason (like trolling or bad language), I find it hard to believe that it was deleted. Even then, threads aren't deleted, but made invisible or put in some section of the forum not accessible to regular users.

I agree. Unfair advantage in what? Sounds like they are thinking of competition in model contests. Sure, that is true for trophy-whores (yes I also said that), but model building should be done for your own enjoyment, so as far as I can see, everything goes. You might or might not even enter a contest. And even if you have whatever advantage they think is from machining your own parts, or using 3-D printing, if your assembly techniques and paint jobs are crappy, you won't be winning top honors. What I saying that in order to win trophies, you have be pretty damn good modeler, regardless of what extra parts you are slapping on, or whether you are using 3-D printing. The whole thing makes no sense, but as I said, social media brings out the worst in some people. Not that this unwarranted jealousy wasn't present, but it was only discussed by few disenchanted modelers whispering in the corner of the model contest hall (not instantly broadcast to hundreds of people).

Whenever I can I use Tungsten/Carbide (TC) bits with 1/8" shanks which come from PC board manufacturing industry. The are extremely hard and have split point which makes them go through most materials like butter. Yes, the harness also makes them very fragile, but I'm willing to take that chance (I do break my share of them). We had a discussion here about those bits. I highly recommend reading that thread. And another one:

Well, the way some of the FB members of the group mentioned by the OP were behaving, it was a bit more than being disinterested. Getting mad at someone who post info on some 3-D printed model they've built and chewing them out is not quite "being disinterested" If someone was just disinterested, they would look at the model, say "meh", and move on. Catch my drift? Again, I think it is the social media bringing out the worst in otherwise normally behaving people. I can even see me sometimes getting too passionate about things I say online.

That's what I suspected. After all you are taking a flat disk and making a dome out of it. So it gets cupped, making it smaller. Think of a brown paper cup which holds a Reese's peanut butter cup. When you flatten it, the paper stretches out quite a bit larger than the cupped version. Yes, this is a rather extreme example, but similar process takes place during doming. Thanks for the confirmation. As for hypodermic tubing, I used to get mine from Small Parts Inc., a great source of lots of useful items. But some years ago, they got absorbed into amazon, and the amazon store is useless trying to locate anything. But I've found a source of similar type of supplies. They have very wide range of hypodermic tubing and other items which can be useful in model building. https://componentsupplycompany.com/

Just a warning: These paints are fairly "hot". If sprayed on heavily they might slightly craze some kit's plastics.

I already posted my opinion on this but I think I would like a further explanation of this (no, I'm not on FB, and not planning on joining). What modeling groups are those? People who build standard injection-molded polystyrene kits? Or some group that builds models from scratch maybe? What specific reasons those individuals give for rejecting 3-D printed models? How about urethane resin cast models which have been around for long time? Are those models ok in their eyes? How about resin cast models produced in a mold where a 3-D printed model was used as a master? This lack of acceptance seems very silly and limiting. It absolutely makes no sense, but in today's highly polarized world, this is not unexpected. Someone gets some totally unreasonable notion about something, posts it on the Internet, and suddenly we have a mob. Some of those people need a "clue bat".

Thanks Daniel, that clarifies things. I thought you were placing flat piece of aluminum over the surface of the female die, then pressing it into the depression using the male part of the die. Kind of what you would when punching the metal in a regular punch/die set. That also answers my subsequent question about trimming the finished reflector out of the flat sheet - there is nothing to trim. Now it is all clear. Using this technique you are limited to the sizes available in a doming set. Do those provide proper sizes for headlights which would be replacing kit's solid headlights drilled out of the grille of many older kits (or promos) where the headlight was integral part of the grille? Judging by the photos you posted, the answer is yes, close enough.

We had a lengthy discussion about similar dilemma: what is considered scrachbuilding. 3-D printing came up in there too. Who cares what technology created a scale model? It's all good! The end result (the pleasure of building, and a finished scale model) is what counts.

It is actually a type of paint, not a dye. Dye basically gets absorbed into the material being dyed. Thinks of tie-dyed t-shirts. This stuff (like paint) remains on the surface. But it adheres to the painted surface really well, and it is flexible. I used the white color spray to paint whitewalls on vinyl tires of a Pocher 1:8 scale car. I use the SEM brand (bought at a body shop supplies store)

Duh, I just went back and read your initial post in this thread. You did choose to use Inkscape for artwork design. That is a good start!

Yes, designing artwork and then knowing how to get the most out of the Alps printer will take some learning. Did you read through the newbie info in the groups.io? https://alps.groups.io/g/ALPS/files/Newbie_Info In there I make a reference to Rob de Bie's Alps webpage. https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/decals.htm He created an excellent primer on design and printing of decals and in understanding some of the printer's shortcomings. Rob is also a member of this forum. Like Rob, I highly recommend doing the artwork in a vector-based graphic program. Using that format allows to easily resize or change colors, and also make them accurately sized without experimenting. I use Corel Draw version 10 and 12. Those are very old versions, but even those have more features I'll even need for artwork design. There is also free vector-based software called Inkscape. But as I mentioned, there is a learning curve involved so don't expect becoming proficient in couple of days.

That's correct. And those laser printers cannot retain paper in the printed for multiple layers of inks like Alps can. That feature allows for effects not possible with laser printers. And yes, metallic and foils are another feature that is not available on laser printer. There is a process available for printing white and metallics decals using standard laser printers, but it is rather cumbersome. It is DecalProFx. Actually I just checked and it looks like they have scaled down their online presence, but the printing system still appears to be available: https://pulsarprofx.com/

True, but it is not the same. Some users reported that the paper is nothing like what TangoPapa used to sell. I personally don't use it so I didn't pay too much attention, but I do remember people not being happy about the change. Here is a thread about this from last December: https://alps.groups.io/g/ALPS/topic/decal_paper/103422747

Yes Alps is capable of printing white, and also metallic colors.

Thanks Tommy. Interesting. The rims and the mounting hardware look identical to mine, but mine came with hard resin, smaller and lower profile tires. These tires look useful. I'm also puzzled about the seller. Mine was in Ukraine, and had high number of feedbacks. This seller is in Germany with not many feedbacks. The listing also mentions that they might not ship to USA. I would have to contact the seller to find out. If the shipping cost is as high as what many other German sellers charge, plus the 20 Euro price for the wheels would make this rather expensive.

Thanks for the link. Few years ago I found 14" Mercedes Barock rims by ATS on eBay. Those wheels were sold by DiOlex Production in Ukraine. They look like resin castings of a 3-D printed master. The set also included resin tires, but those are unsuitable for this model. I'm still looking for suitable tires to fit those 14" rims.

Yes, it sure is!

I also belong to multiple groups on groups.io, but I selected no-email option. Instead emails, I exclusively access the groups through the Web interface. It is very similar to how an online forum like this is accessed. The messages can be grouped by threads, so you don't get lost in all those emails you your Inbox. And of course you have full access to the message archive (for searching it), and other features like Files and Photos section. Highly recommended.

When you get more advanced in your LED knowledge you will find out that you can operate multiple (any color) LEDs connected in parallel with the power source,. You just have to use series-connected resistor with each LED. You can also use those resistors to control brightness of the LEDs

That is a great tip. So the aluminum does not wrinkle during the doming process? How do you punch them out (or does the doming process already do that)?