peteski

Congratulations Don! I suspected that after John Biel retired, Don would be a good candidate to take the helm. Plus he is a car modeler too! One of these days I'll send my contribution to the Car Spotter column.

Alcohol works, but petroleum distillates (like VM&P Naphtha, also sold as Ronsonol lighter Fluid) or as others mentioned WD40 are best choice for wiping off adhesive residue from well cured paint. But Naphtha dries without residue where WD40 is a lubricant that can leave some oily residue. I buy the VM&P Naphtha in quart size cans at a hardware store (in the paint thinners isle). I use it for lots of cleaning and degreasing tasks.

If it is milky color is is not dry. If those areas are airtight, the glue trapped in there might never dry (or take months). 5-minute epoxy hardens by chemical reaction, so it would be better to use in this situation. But it also turns amber after few years. Epoxy and PVA types of adhesives are old-school. I would say the best choice of adhesive nowadays would be one of the many UV-cure resins or adhesives out there. Since UV light cures them, there is nothing to evaporate. Might be time to rethink the glue media.

I'm on a PC and I just reacted to your post. But you use a mobile version of the forum. I guess it can be your phone (browser), the mobile version code of this website, or compatibility between them. Computer related things are getting too complicated nowadays.

Thanks for the info Helmut.

Thanks for the info.

True, but one of the reasons is that over the years I have observed that the Tampo-printed thin whitewall on tires was often not properly centered on a tire, and that looks really bad. Plus the black-wall was always an option in all the years you've mentioned. But I agree that wo could use more options for good thin whitewall tires.

Those also look good, but why did they print the wheel and tire as a single piece?! That will make chroming and painting the tire a pain!

The eBay link was to French eBay, but you can just do advanced search on eBay, for seller jack_modelling you will see the listings too. I just placed an order. In the listing you can select several different sizes.

Like we say in the Boston area; this is a wick'd impressive (scratch)build! Amazing how good it looks and the paint is bringing out even more details.

I agree with the earlier comment that windows make or break the model's realism, I have to add that IMO same goes for other clear lenses on the model. It would be nice to have those molded out of clear/amber/red, but I can also see that one has to draw the line somewhere. I suppose a simple open mold could be made of those taillights, then cast them using clear red resin (or clear and painted with transparent red), but that would really extend and complicate this build.

How about these (no need to buy a full model kit).

What can brown do for you? Remember that ad campaign few years back? Incompetence!

Yes, in her example you do have a point Bill.

The cynic in me sometimes wonders how many of those "cool chick" that are into mechanical things like cars are just acting, while the real mechanics are "behind the curtain"?

I avoid gluing painted parts by: 1 - Pinning parts (I install the pin and drill the hole before painting. f the smaller pinned part is to be painted I mask the pin with liquid mask before painting the part. 2 - Mask the glued area with liquid mask before painting. 3 - Scrape the paint off before gluing. I rarely use number 3 since I test fit and prep parts before painting.

I also found dealing with Revell of Germany parts support hassle-free, and no charge. Last time I needed a new body and decals for the recently released Jaguar XK-E.

Thank you for you thorough analysis of me, which BTW is not very accurate. If you look at my post history, you will notice that I'm not only commenting on your posts (actually I seem to recall that only commented on your posts only few times before deciding that it is not worth it). Also in this thread *YOU* attacked my post. BTW, while you didn't like some of my earlier comments to you about the 3D printed grilles, you did follow my advice and printed the headlight lenses as a separate clear pieces. As for the terminology, it might not be the correct jargon, but it gets its meaning across. Plus show me anybody else on this forum (besides you) who comments on 3D technology using terms like Voxel. Striations , layering and faceting are terms which get the point across to the general forum membership (modelers not directly involved in 3D printing) even better than "voxels". Also neither of those terms is specifically a geological term (check the dictionary definitions I linked to). I get that you don't like me, but let it go dude, before I start treating this as personal attacks.

Dude, why are you bustin' my chops?! What "word" am I throwing around? I'm not stupid, but I don't own a 3D printer and I describe things I see using terminology generally used by non-experts. I call them as I see them. "Voxels"? "Voxel artifacts"? "Rock layering caused by crystals twinning"? If anything, you are throwing "those" words around. I ended my post with "Hey, we all have our own standards and requirements". Is that so difficult to comprehend?

While not CAD, I use Corel Draw, which is a vector-based drawing program to do my measuring for me. It sure is easier than to do it manually. Actually Corel Draw could be considered as a 2D CAD program.

Charles, the photos of 3D printed bodies you posted don't convince me. Actually in some of the photos (which with a gray resin don't really show the surface very well) do show some striations and stepped curves. Evaluating the surface of 3D prints is best done viewed in-person. I'm not disputing the fact that 3D printing has already revolutionized scale modeling. I agree that it is a game changer. But not (yet) for everything. Hey, we all have our own standards and requirements.

I agree that for things like engines and similar mechanical parts contemporary 3D printing beats resin, but I have yet to see a 3D printed car body which would have as smooth of a surface finish as resin cast bodies from good resin casters (like RMCoM or Modelhaus, or few others). Say what you will, the layering i still present on the 3D printed bodies. And if you haven't guessed, I do not sand/prime/sand/prime/sand my model bodies. I think for te best of both worlds it would be nice to have someone 3D print a model car body, and then prep it to be as smooth as styrene bodies, then cast good quality resin copies. As for the plating service, the only one I know of is Little Motor Kar Company, but who knows how long Dale will keep the business open. I don't have contact info handy, but it has been posted many times on the forum. Dale is not good responding to emails. Best to call him on the phone.

There is a very recent thread in the FAQ forum about scale spark plug wires. There were also many similar threads here in thee past (and I posted links to them in that thread). Like Bill said, using properly scaled diameter wires makes or breaks the realism of your model. Sometimes it pays to spend more money for smaller (properly sized) wire than being thrifty, and having garden-hose-sized wires in your model. But it all depends what you find acceptable on your models. v

That's is an awesome news! I was hoping someone would eventually 3D print those wheels.

Those are in fact modeled after the '73-'76 wheel covers. The ones used in the '80s (like pictured by Earl, and like the ones I have on my 1:1 '85 Eldorado) are different, but as you mentioned, these are probably the closest one you can find.