peteski

I don't think it is strange. There are different formulations (or grades) of polystyrene, and types or brands of the dyes added to it, so different results are not unexpected. What was used to make models 40 years ago in USA, can be different from a model made 20 years ago on USA. Then plastic mused in USA can be different a model molded in China, Poland, or Mexico. Then of course the plastic can be different even between different manufacturers (Revell, Monogram, AMT, etc.)

I wonder if applying some bitter apple or orange spray to the objects not to be chewed would take care of the problem. My GF's had to do that when her new puppy was chewing things she wasn't supposed to. Since it would be difficult to neatly spray cords or laces, I would take a piece of rag, soak it in the bitter liquid, and rub the power cord with it.

I love those vague and ambiguous product names. I suspect that this stuff does not seal to prevent from dye bleed through, but it is just making the primer surface smoother for the subsequent color coat application. After all, real cars (which is the intended use for this sealer) aren't made of red plastic but from metal. There is nothing to bleed through. For our purposes, some modelers use silver paint as a barrier/sealer, others use Zinsser BIN primer sealer specifically designed for prevention of bleed through.

Not a news to me - it's been like that for over a year (or longer). They also reshuffled many categories. It is really useless. We have discussed this on the forum in the past (maybe even in this thread).

The truly toughest chrome to remove is on Trumpeter model car kits. Those are actually electroplated with a fairly thick metal coating. Other kit's chrome is just a couple of atoms thick layer of aluminum deposited in a vacuum chamber (process is called "vacuum metalizing") Before metalizing the parts are sprayed with a high gloss clear (to provide a smooth surface for the metalization). Not very often, there is also a top clear coat applied to protect the rather fragile thin aluminum coat. While some of the methods you mentioned are used by some modelers, the indisputably best way to remove the "chrome" is a solution of Sodium Hydroxide (aka. Lye, or caustic soda). It will both, quickly remove the thin layer of metal, and also because it also is good for stripping paint, it will also strip the clear coating, leaving just the bare plastic. It will also eat human skin so rubber gloves are highly recommend (most of lye containing liquids have warning labels on their containers). Many household cleaning fluids contain lye. Drain cleaners, oven cleaners, degreasers, all contain lye. The Purple Degreaser (Often called "Purple Pond") is very popular in modeling circles for stripping paint and "chrome". it contains lye. Another hint: warming the solution slightly (to around 90-90 deg. F) will increase the potency and speed up the stripping action). And yes, this subject comes up here from time to time. So far I have not seen any better methods than the old standby: Lye.

Your explanation makes perfect sense. I usually treat the kit's instructions as a mere suggestion of the assembly sequence.

No point of dragging this out.

The "Countessa" is looking great David. I have looked through this entire thread and I have a question: Why didn't you attach the bare plastic flares and chin spoiler to the bare plastic body, and then painted the whole assembly?

Well as I see it, he was called out because his excuse was "I’m new to all this muscle car stuff!", yet as you pointed out that he actually wrote a book about muscle car models. Seems like a bad excuse to me, and you posting that info about his book made him look even worse. At least that was how I interpreted things (which seems opposite from your goal). This is a common problem when communicating in messages posted online. Lots of important cues of a face-to-face conversations are not there to better interpret what someone is really trying to say.

"Special paper" is still vague. Does the sheet you bought have any labeling (like a UPC barcode , part #,, and a name of the product or manufacturer)? It has to have some sort if identification for the cashier to use.

Yes, in some seasons Perry Mason drove GM vehicles (Caddys).

Concentrated ammonia (like the refrigerant used in industrial cooling systems) is very dangerous. I also think that the concentration of ammonia in the "original" Windex is probably too low to be a good acrylic paint remover. In USA, in the laundry/cleaning section of a supermarket, they sell household ammonia (either lemon-scented or unscented). It is for general cleaning and laundry use. It is more concentrated than Windex. That might be useful for acrylic paint removal. Not sure if it is available in Poland.

. . . or how the slicer shows the wheel with the supports in place? I suspect that the spokes are self-supporting due to their angle. I think the supports will only be needed for the rim and the hub.

Sorry, I did not intend for my post to be the way you described. I was really surprised with the 14 year old post being brought back, so I showed that in bold. Then I went on and looked up my80malibu profile and posted that he has been away for a long time too. No disrespect meant to anybody. I guess my brain works differently than some of you guys.

I find the multiple quoting just to thank bunch of members a bit awkward. To me this presents a perfect opportunity to use the group's "like" tags. Just go to each complimentary post and tag them with the little "thank you" trophy symbol (like I just did for your post Greg). That way the people who posted compliments will know that you are thanking them (when you hover over the "like" symbol it will display the name of the member who tagged them). They will also get notified that "someone reacted to their post". That's how I see it. At first I was against the "like" tags functionality, but now I see that it can be quite handy in certain instances. Or even simpler, just respond stating "thank you all for your positive comments" (or something similar) without quoting anybody. Of course if you want to mention more than just a simple "thank you" then you would quote and respond. You can also still use the "thank you" tags.

Two sets of "glass" would be good and easy solution..

George, What did I do wrong? I simply informed Ted that for the reasons I mentioned I was actually cutting Ted "some slack" by informing him that either getting a response from the member who posted the info, or the manufacturer still being around are pretty remote. Ted's level of knowledge or where he resides is irrelevant to the info I posted. I actually went and checked my80malibu's profile to see they they have not visited here for over 2 years, so the chance of them even noticing Ted's question are slim to none. There was nothing derogatory, demeaning, or inflammatory in my post. Just gave my opinion based on the info available. Which line prey tell did I cross George? Anyway, I apologize for something I'm not even sure about.

Yeah, with that large rear window, and urethane bumpers, it sure isn't a 1969 Vette.

The problem is that the windshield and front side windows should be clear. If it is a 1-piece glass then that will make all the glass areas tinted. Not good. Model windows can easily be tinted using Tamiya's Smoke paint, or even the 1:1 automotive window tint.

Do you realize that you asked your question 14 years after the previous post?!?!? They are likely long out of business. Most small cottage industries dont' stay around very long. And even the member who posted this thread has not visited the forum for over 2 years.

Very nice. Hard to believe it is a small Hot Wheels car. How did you design the decal, and what printer did you print it on?

I like it!!! Super creative, and I could see that work as a 1:1 vessel. It would sure turn some heads!

It seems that there are alternatives - see the "Future" sticky thread.

That's just wishful thinking since Testors/Rustoleum/RPM seem to be trimming (not expanding) the line of hobby paints. Fortunately other companies are stepping up with new lines of paints. Also, the paint being discussed here in unrelated to Testors - it is Revell (of Germany) paint. I have used Humbrol paints living in Poland back in the '70s, and I don't recall having problems with the tinlets. Revell also makes a line of paints packages in plastic cubes.

I had to go back to the initial post to see that you had the seats even back then, but I didn't see any mention where you got the seats. Who makes these?