426-Hemi

Thanks Tom! Much appreciated! I have thoroughly been enjoying all the extra details and to see just how far I truly can push myself on this one....... and the funny part? Its not even the best yet. thats to come, (I am going all out on a '70 Dodge Coronet R/T convertible! Thats yet to come! BUT, this one is right up there as it has a little meaning to me with the accident with my hands and the healing of them and the help building this model did for me with dexterity on both left & right hands from that accident back in 2015..... It WILL be nice to see this one done tho, because of that! Thanks for following along, stay tuned! This one os almost on the display case base...... and in that "Completed" category!

you bet Mark, I'd love to see "complete kits" of those 2, not just "bodies" that are priced as much as a kit and a half!

So then how many '68's do ya have? 2 Chargers, and the Dart? Any others that are Mopar? That would have the little round marker lights? Also a PM is headed your way too! Stay tuned! As for the Roadrunner, yes there will be more.... its ALMOST COMPLETE as this message is being typed out as well as the PM you'll be getting!

Thats why I mentioned the lens!!!! I remembered you mentioning them to me! and they looks great too! EDIT: We'll get you detailing like my insane ways in no time LOL -Especially M-O-P-A-R!!!!

I wanna 4 door '70 Coronet 440 and a '70 Coronet 440 wagon........

WELL my friend they ALSO can be used in a '68 Charger R/T OR a '68 Dart GTS!!!!! Same thing in those too!

Yeah, I will keep my eyes out but my issue with ebay is the fact I don't have paypal! Very limiting on bids and buys there!

Thats how you install those side marker lights. you might have a set coming your way when the package is all together!!!!!

Thanks Dave! The marker lights the rings are polished aluminum tube from K&S metals, and the lens are clear and taillight red sprue turned to fit in my lathe! The clear lens were used in front and then had Testors Turn signal Amber to "color" them, one coat right now but may need more as its transparent,and very light.... I did use some stop light red transparent on the rear ones to make a smoother looking finish on the lens from being turned in the lathe! You good with a drill bit and "step drilling"???? Theres a reason I ask!

Jeremy, that turned out GREAT!!!!! -Nice job!

-Will go have a look at the GTX! The future floor shaine I know its by Pledge but no where have I found it local to me and you being within the same state well I had to ask as all the places I've gone to get it, look at me like I have 4 heads asking for Pledge with Future shine.... I'm die hard Testors..... Them and Rustoleum come out of the same paint mixing lab..... Frame of the VTS is looking good!!!!!

Sharp build, nice paint job, but I have to 2nd the comments on the person that mentioned the "water-mark" in the center of the pic, makes it difficult to see whats on the model, or whats the water-mark! corners out of the line of sight should be enough, Besides, your work? Yes, Your photography? Yes, then you should have no issue its YOUR copyright! Never quite understood the extreme water markings when the copyright goes to the person that took the picture and in this case did the work & took the picture thats being viewed!

JC, that kit still available as yes, it would help!? I'm just unfamiliar with what trailer kits can still be gotten!

Absolutely! post the pics of the GTX! OK dang it. LOL you mentioned Future where in this state do I find it? I myself stay tight with Testors paint, you can not mix Krylon "Krapon" with anything, it doesn't play well with others, BUT I have yet to see Testors have an issue! But that too, I been using Testors for a LONG Time! over 30 years now!!!! Been playin' with the stuff since I was just over 8 years old!

With all done seen in my last posting, one thing I did not address on the model when doing BMF is the side marker lights! I didn't do them in BMF for a reason.... I think, I have a "better way" of getting that nice chrome trim ring.... So here goes.... As the pic says... pay attention to the marker lights! That pic also was taken with no flash! Side marker lights drilled right out GONE! But wait, they will return in a whole other light! So now, the lights are coming back.... With a whole new light (pun intended) trim ring! Front Turn signal marker light, with a Amber lens!!!!! Rear red lens in-place! Marker lights are BACK!!!!!! I think for what I did and how I did it, turned out GREAT! That trim ring? is 3/32nd inch Aluminum tube cut and polished to fit, glued in and left to dry before I made and installed the custom made lens! Thats all for now! More to come as I get 'er DONE!!!! Thanks for looking, Comments welcome! ~ENJOY

So hows about a couple updates on this build? Yeah, I think its time! I've been busy in the shop with a box I had found last weekend, as I was hoping then to at least have completed THIS model. BUT, things just didn't happen the way I had planned so I took the week this week to clean up that mess and get things organized and had to revamp my WHOLE way of storing my own parts! WOW. so that left me day after day getting things taken care of all week. Not a lot of modeling time, BUT the last 2 days have been difficult, I still had a mess 2 days ago but wanted to get back to where I had left off! WELL now, I'm BACK! LOL So then, my last posting I left up-in-the-air on the little Aluminum turning I made, and Jeff, (AKA: dge467) guessed it right, that part is in fact a Antenna base! And heres how it all went together! As I mentioned, I "locate" the part, as close as I can (from pictures of the real thing if need be!) and then drill a hole just big enough that a long CHROME straight pin is a "loose press fit" through it from underneath. This way the head of said straight pin is part of the "mount" to hold it in-place! I hold the pin straight side-to-side & front-to-back, and super glue from underneath as well. Once that dries (pretty quick) I slip the polished aluminum base over the pointed end of the the straight pin and leave it just above the body. I then take a small amount of super glue onto a toothpick BARELY touch the pin close to the body of the car, to leave a small amount and then while "wet" (you have to act quick here) push the polished aluminum base down till it touches the body of the car having the super glue get inside the base to hold it in-place! Looking at the picture, it looks really good! Looks just a tad "heavy barreled" but is WAY better then ANYTHING a model part could be..... Ain't nothing "round" about a molded model part Antenna! So I turn on the lights..... Now thats BRIGHT! and that Antenna looks GREAT! From the other side? Yeah, why not!? Looks good! I'm so pleased with this whole model I can't even say. I've surprised myself several times during its build and its coming to a close shortly as there really isn't much left to do till its done, and that I hope to have done TODAY! All snow'd in, and more falling as I type this so. I can't see it any other way at this point! Then, speaking of lights...............remember those tail lights I was working on? What you guys think of them? Have a look: I thin it could have been a little better, BUT I worked with what I had in-hand and for that reason I think its pretty good! I'm pleased with that! -Thats why they're in-place! Stay tuned more to follow right after these short messages! Thanks for following along, and Commentary is always welcome!

WELL it sure don't fit a B or a RB big block by the looks of it!

LOL Snake! too funny but VERY true! -100 modelers lifetime supply of red tail lights!

Thats horse BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH.. editing the Rebel out of the pic, it WAS part of OUR American History!!!! And still is, its not a sign of hate, it was a sign of FREEDOM. It was the sign of FREEing the slaves among other things..... For the SOUTH, and whats the Confederate Flag represent? THE SOUTH.. Liberals..... Don't get me started..... I'm NOT from the south, altho grew up VERY close to the Mason-Dixon line, I have a strong following... and there was nothing wrong with the General Lee till they banned it from the car Made the car naked!.. The actual REAL "General Lee" himself rolled over in his grave! At least how you "removed" the Rebel from the car its a very respectful way of doing so! GOOD Job. the only thing that should lay out across the rebel flag, and she done it well!

Frank, Whats something like that cost? I haven't EVER bought anything from Shapeways so I'm ignorant of the price of such things, PM me on it if ya would if you don't wanna speak of that on main board!

JC, I had to quote this posting removing MOST of the pics you had posted but the one I left in the quote of the Revell Race Car Trailer with equipment, I'd LOVE to find one of those trailers complete! (I have pieces of on, just the tongue) but it looks like it be a really GOOD trailer kit!

-I WANT ONE!

Those Moroso valve covers aren't right and sadly I have several brand new sets of them and I'm not impressed with those at all! They have nothing to recognize them as "Mopar" or "Chrysler" valve covers....... As much as like the MPC kits back then thats one item I won't give good reviews for, as its a pretty "generic" looking part.

How many ya want? I have had that engine molded for over a year now! PM me if your serious!

I totally agree! If I were to spend the $$$$ to get the part, I'd at least want it to fit........ OR be ABLE to be filed to fit the given space where it will rest in-place. The other question is, IF that part is .435" and the actual small block measures out to .440" IS the "angle" right? Remember guys, the lowest part of that intake is more narrow as the top of that said flange is wider that creates an angle, WHAT engine is that part actually made to fit? Not ALL engines HAVE the same head angle! 383 Mopar and 440 are GREAT examples of this! You can swap the heads, from one engine to the other, but you can't swap the intakes! The deck on the 2 blocks is different, the 383 B engine is a low deck, as the 440 is a raised deck.... BOTH still are Big Blocks however, 383 is a "B" engine and the 440 is a RB engine. So having that in-mind, does the 3D printed intake carry the correct angles for the heads to a small block, has anyone tried loose fitting this part yet?