SfanGoch

Right here:

Cross the border(no passport required ) and stop in at Lenny's Clam Bar on Cross Bay Blvd. in Howard Beach. Mention Rocky and get a free glass of wine with dinner.

Landfill and soil liquefaction are major concerns. Check out the Liquefaction Hazard Maps. What about those swell cliffside homes? The ones that turn into houseboats when they slide into the Pacific after an earthquake.

Right now, six cars and three military kits. It's an assembly line. I'll work on one or two for around three days while the others are in their boxes on standby. Then, box them up and move to another two. Rinse and repeat. This keeps me from over-obsessing about details on any particular, kit which I tend to do.

It's still there.

Hey, the terms are interchangeable. Both joints serve burgers, gyros and other diner grub in addition to Greek specialties. Using "restaurant" instead of "diner" just means the check will be about ten bucks more in the former. Waddya mean $8.00 for a glass of chocolate milk?!?

What do you order? I'll venture a guess and say it would be real restaurant fare requiring knives and forks. Ron's talking about regular Greek diner food. Cheeseburgers, fries and sodas for two people will cost upwards of 50 bucks plus tax and tip at the Greek's in NYC & LI. Replace the burgers with gyros or Greek salad, same cost. How many of you would pay $7.75 for two eggs, toast and hash browns plus a side of pork sausage (3 Brown & Serve-sized links) for an additional $6.95? It ain't cheap, guys. Menu from the Greek diner near me. Bring two credit cards.

Sorry to hear this. I remember seeing his models in SA. Really great stuff.

Trisodium phosphate can also be used to clean and degrease polystyrene, leaving no residue. It's also great degunking carburetors and degreasing firearms parts in preparation for parkerizing them.

Now, that makes sense! It would be a really cool diorama.

First, apologies to Jeff for posting non-relevant stuff. Roger. This is how the parts are supposed to be attached: Additionally, an accessory pulley is supposed to be mounted where Part 21 is shown to be attached. It powers a secondary alternator which I had to scratchbuild, along with the associated brackets. The angle and length of the dipstick tube, as shown in the instructions, is wrong. First, the engine wouldn't fit on the kit frame if the tube was installed as in the instructions. Second, it has to be installed at the angle you see on my engine. Please excuse the quality of my engine. It's not because I don't know how to build resin kits. I originally bought and photographed this in 2013. Miroslav sent me a real piece of garbage casting. As you can see, in addition to broken or missing parts, the details, when compared to Boris's and yours, are either extremely soft or not included on mine. What you see isn't a lousy paint job. That's the rough casting surface under a single airbrushed coat of Detroit Diesel Green. To say I was pissed about the substandard quality of this particular engine would be an understatement. Yours, and others I later bought,were made with a new mold. Stick with the kit-provided floor. The RM part is too thick and not as detailed. If anything, splurge and get the Voyager PE sets for the M1070n and M1000. The transfer case (Oshkosh 55000 Series) can also be used with the Italeri and Trumpeter series of HEMTT vehicles. I also made accurate floor armor for the M1070. If you want a full size template and pics, PM your email address. I'll also send you a copy of the Transfer Case assembly instructions I wrote so you can get an heads up if you decide to get it. Once again, sorry Jeff. I'll stay on topic.

Revell and Minicraft both produce 1/144 Connies. Are you talking about forced depth in a diorama using different scales? Ain't no way a 1/144 aircraft with a 10" wingspan going to work next to a 1/24 vehicle.

At least youse guys tawk real English like us mugs down here, almost.

The ILM effects crew used parts from a variety of WWII kits, from Panther and Tiger tanks to Messerschmitt Bf-109's, to detail the Millenium Falcon. The had a relationship with Monogram, when it was based in Hawthorne, Ca., and would order certain trees of kit parts and buy returned kits with missing parts at a big discount. Lotta Panther engine decks used on the MF to simulate vents.

Then, there's the hood for that body with the best paint job ever. Somehow, after you set it aside, it gets sucked up into the interdimensional space-time vortex and is never seen again. The hood for a '70 Coronet Super Bee mysteriously vanished after I repainted the body following the sneaky sneeze incident. Never did find it.

Man, why didn't AMT release a 1/25 scale version? I need that for my NYPD RMP project.

At half the price of the Meng engine, it's just as good. Did you build the engine yet? If you followed the instructions, you and Boris aren't going to like this. I pointed this out to Miroslav, the owner of Real Model when it was first released. You always gotta have references handy just in case. You might want to get RMA 36524 I made the master and it's a100%accurate representation, down to the last bolt. I used the TM's as a reference

While laying down the best paint job ever, you get ambushed by one of those sneaky sneezes, causing the finger on the the airbrush button to involuntarily jerk back and release a huge, thick blob of paint on the works.

In Spanish speaking countries, Tuesday the 13th is the bad luck day. Conversely, 13 is considered a luckk number in Latin American countries. Ever notice how many Latin American baseball players wear "13" as a`uniform number?

Lettering guides weren't used in tech drawing classes when I was required to take the course as a high school freshman. We were taught to print freehand using single stroke inclined capitals 1/8" in height. This was the bible in technical drawing class in Brooklyn Tech H.S.: 44 years later, i still have my copy.

Luck has nuthin' to do with finding Humbrol paints. Humbrol's website lists 116 retailers in the U.S. which carry the line.

Psssst........Yeah, you.........I posted a link to LOGSA in a previous reply so anyone can download TM's, TB's and LO's to use as references. Situations like this are why it's always good to have reference material. It does away with guesswork and agita. Also, if you didn't know about this site, Prime Portal is the best pictorial reference resource for military equipment on the net. Excellent walkarounds are available for virtually anything that rolls, floats or flies.

The wife's shoe boxes. Manufacturers throw them in to keep the leather from rotting. Of course, I require them for far more important things. You can also get them at Office Max, Home Depot, Lowe's, Target, etc.

Did you read the first post? That happens to be the the link GMP440 provided to open this thread. To be quite honest, the Wikipedia article on Jo-Han is much more informative.

Here's what I wrote in another thread in this section regarding storage of opened CA bottles: Contrary to what the experten swear by, storing opened bottles in the fridge is a bad idea. Cyanoacrylate polymerizes in the presence of water. The opened bottle contains air, which contains moisture. The humidity of air already brings a sufficient amount of water for cyanoacrylate to polymerize. When cooled, the moisture condenses and contaminates the CA, drastically shortening its shelf life. Store your opened bottles in a glass (preferably a mason jar with a rubber gasketed screw cap) or metal container with a screw on lid. Place a couple silica gel bags inside and place the CA in the container. The silica will absorb the moisture and keep the CA from deteriorating. I have 6+ year old bottles of CA stored this way and they are still good. Every month or so, take the silica bags and toss them into the oven, heating them at 225° for 15 minutes to remove the absorbed moisture. Doubt it? That's what Google's for, gents.