SfanGoch

People who spend their waking hours exercising their thumbs on a 2.5 x 4.5" screen think the concept of actually repairing something is one of those bogeyman tales one tells kids in order to get them to behave.

Elaborate on what you mean by "fishy". It looks fairly straightforward. There isn't any video hocus-pocus used to deceive the viewer. I'm going to get a can and empty Molotow markers after taking care of the rest of the Christmas-inflicted bills. One difference between Easy Brush and Alclad is that Alclad has to be airbrushed to achieve the finish. I tend to look for and use the simplest solution to simple problems. Use a small paintbrush like you would with normal hobby paint. Mask molded on trim and brush it on. Small parts can be painted the same way one normally does it, unless one thinks using an airbrush to apply paint on an ignition coil and two valve covers is worth the extra time and effort. Molotow offers a 1.5mm soft brush tip which can be used with the empty markers to paint parts. For small scale use, get some empty paint jars and store the amount of Easy Chrome you intend to use so you don't need to keep reopening the can.

I was interested in the Molotow Chrome pens until I checked out Skip Jordan's thread about ALSA Easy Brush. Sure, 200 bucks for a 4 oz. can sounds like a lot; but, that's just a bit more than the cost of four Molotow 30ml refills. Plus, unlike Molotow, it's a paint, not an ink. It won't rub off. The Easy Brush could probably be used in one of the Molotow empty markers to paint trim with.

Whaddya drinking?

Bruce, in what part of Canada do you live? If you happen to live in the one of Western Provinces, stop by Canada's version of Greenpoint, Saskatoon, and get a case of It's non-fattening and high octane. Just don't spill any on your car. It'll eat the paint.

Aqua Velva with a Coke chaser works for me.

That's the swellest bunch of vague generalities ever assembled in a single junk mail.

Think about how much more build time you'd have if you didn't waste it replying to posts in threads like this.

I was once a drinker of professional standing. Four times I woke up in a country (Denmark, Netherlands, France and Austria) other than the one I started drinking in (West Germany).

I'm glad you "got" it. Having to explain it diminishes its laff value.

Nowhere. It was used as a figure of speech indicating he didn't bother.

Send me your unbuilt kits. If you don't have the time to read the article, you definitely don't have the time to build'em.

Sneaky one, he is. He's waiting for the right opportunity to pry that microballoon secret out of you.

It's on Page 4: Comic Book Ads

Gee, that's almost as much as moving companies charge per man here. Hey! Whoa! The cat don't need to be bubble wrapped!

They become psychologists/psychiatrists/psychoanalysts so they can they enjoy a gin and tonic while the the mental case planking on the couch rambles on about his/her innermost feelings just to reassure themselves that they're nowhere near as crazy as the moonbat paying for a one hour session that is 45 minutes long.

According to a recent study, If you like gin and tonic, you might be a psychopath. Now, where's that Bombay Gin?

Nothing worse than a clique of insiders who guard their methods as if they discovered how to make gold from seawater. If you don't use the right "high sign" or whisper the correct password, we ain't lettin' youse into the mystical inner circle, see? In other words, chase yourself, dead game sport.

No problem, Tom. Say, d'ya tink you could see yer way t'have a woid wit Chuck Wirick 'bout a parkin' ticket dey tagged me car wit back in 1988? See, wuz on me way to pay a visit to a boid what lived in Paynesville, Mn. an'........

That only applies to solvent based cements/adhesives. PVA, epoxy or clear acrylic paints will adhere quite adequately.

My two cents, since you started with the scribing tool, finish the job with it. If you've never attempted the thread method, it could be somewhat tricky to maintain a straight cut within the the separation line. You'll also need to make a hole/cut through which to feed the thread so it can be attached to a jewelers saw handle or a homemade one made from a wire hanger. Too ponderous and time consuming. At least with the scribing tool, you'll be able to securely hold the body with one hand and manipulate the scribing tool with the other.

Nah, Trumpeter uses styrene. Depending on when the kits (all, not just its cars) were manufactured, the styrene used can vary from very soft to hard and somewhat brittle. The car kits date back to around the same time period that the early armor kits were produced and tend to be the latter type of styrene. I have the Falcon Sprint convertible in front of me. I cut some sprue and tested different solvents: Testors Liquid Cement for Plastics, Plastruct Bondene and Plastruct Plastic Weld. All three weld the sprues. Bondene and Plastic Weld set up a little quicker than the Testors; although, they all produce strong bonds. If you want to guarantee a bulletproof bond, skip the stuff formulated for hobby use. Go for industrial strength solvent cements like Wed-On 3 orb Weld-On 4. They sell for about 19 bucks/pt. at Lowe's, Home Depot or any decent hardware store. A pint will last for years.

While you're at it, check out the scribing templates. They come in handy when you need to re-scribe or add access panels on aircraft models.

Check out UMM-USA. John Vojtech has everything a hobbyist could ever need. The saws are on this page. The JLC razor saws are very good. They're in the middle of the page, item numbers JLC 001-006. I have JLC 004 20 Years Anniversary Micro-Saw Pack It's a great set and inexpensive. I also use the Hauler razor saws which fit the JLC tool. Hauler's stainless scribes and saw sets are equally indispensable items in one's tool case.

Try Gator's Grip Acrylic Hobby Glue. It dries clear and is strong enough to hold styrene together. Windshields and other clear parts stay attached. I use it to test assemble a model so I can check fit and placement of parts. Other guys have used it in building armor kits. It can be painted over with enamels or acrylics This stuff is great for attaching PE, too. It won't hold in high stress areas; but, it'll do the job for everything else.