SfanGoch

That's an Anycar. There were four or five different Anycars used in car loan ads for Manufacturers Hanover Trust bank in the 1970s.

You could always use it as a donor to build one of these

Cheaper alternative to determine if the wire you intend to feed through the loom will fit: Use a piece of 1/32"/.02"/.5 mm rod as a reference. That's how large the holes on looms included in, for example, MCG PE sets are. If the wire is thicker than the rod, it won't fit through the holes. A pocket engineering scale is a handy item to have in your tool box. You can get one for about four bucks here.

Somebody has a very low trigger level when deciding to do this. If that's the reason, 90% of all threads should be locked because of off subject replies/comments posted. Same with the R&M thread in AM/Resin.

Thanks.

Might as well go the whole nine yards and plate the tires. That would really make your entry at NNL/IPMS stand out among the competition.

Consider using wood grain decals. This company, Uschi van der Rosten, makes them. The set, Nr. 1008, is third from the bottom on the linked page. They even have a set for 1/24-1/25 Woody Wagons. There's a tutorial section which explains how to use the decals.

Is the engine stock, street, racing or other? I don't know how thick the ignition wire you're using is; but, I'd guess it's probably too thick to fit through the holes. It's like trying to run 12/2 BX cable through the eye of a needle. If it's a factory stock engine, I'd suggest using .012 inch ignition wire, which is the right size to simulate the wires on a 1/24-1/25 stock engine.

Glad to see you're back on this one, Casey. Extremely interesting project and your construction commentary is very informative. I see that you're using threaded bolts for the shackles. Sorry if I missed this in previous posts; but, what size are they?

Might rain tomorrow.

You're fortunate to have flea markets where you can find stuff like that. This is the kind of krapp available at the ones near me. Beyond sad, man.

I avoid watching the videos altogether. Verbosity and dullness are a lethal combination when it comes to shilling goods. I prefer hitting the R2 website and hope to see some projected products which might interest me. Chad is better suited to hawking handcrafted macaroni-on-velvet artwork at a local Saturday artisanal flea market.

Seriously, these videos make for tedious viewing.

If he's on a ladder checking out stuff on the upper shelves and the ladder slips causing him to hold on to said shelf to avoid falling, does that make him a hanging Chad?

I agree with everything mikemodeler said here and here with the exception of "modelers" which is a generalization. Specifically, it's car modelers who are cheap. I've stated the same numerous times. Car modelers do the BMW ( rhymes with Pitch, Bone & Wine ) because kit prices are in the $25-$35 range. Check out the prices on armor. A large number start at $70+. Consider yourselves fortunate you aren't paying anywhere near that. What you pay for a car kit is a drop in the bucket in comparison. Unlike car models, it is rare to find armor kits on sale with decent discounts. Getting back to the first quote, regardless of the kit price, one should expect better quality control from the manufacturers. The issues with warpage, misalignment, etc., are a problem which affect a buyer's perception of the manufacturer's standards and dedication to offering quality products. The kit manufacturers we are familiar with aren't greenhorns who are new to the business. They've been in the game long enough to know that producing kits with multiple issues will affect their bottom line --- making money. The "average" modeler buys a kit because the subject interests him. Keep in mind that, because he is an "average modeler", he most likely doesn't possess the skills required to perform corrective surgery to correct the faults. This is something that more than a few here dismiss and wave off with "Well, all you need to do is hack this, add that....." types of response. They obviously can't for the reasons I stated.

Zei gezunt. I just brought up scratching springs because, let's face it, all leaf springs aren't created equal. Vehicle-specific, different lengths, different leaf widths, etc. If you want rivet counter quality, you have no option except to make your own. Photo etching your own isn't necessary. Like I said, using scrap PE frames or K&S brass strip stock can be used. Annealing the ends of of the leaves which require rolling allows you to do so without fancy bening tools and whatnot. The ones I made are identical in width, each leaf is the proper length and all holes, hand drilled with a pin vise, are centered and everything aligns properly. But, hey, that's me.

I forgot to mention that, instead of brass bolts, you can use Masterclub resin nuts and bolts to attach the hangers to the MB frame. They're super detailed and are strong enough to support them.

I mentioned Minor PE leaf springs a couple two or so years ago. I installed VMD24000 on a Hasegawa MB. The key to getting the springs to work is soldering the nuts onto the bolts on the springs and shackles. It's tedious; but worth the effort. I also replaced the axles with brass tubing in both differentials. I'm curious as to why you ordered the sets from Australia. You could have ordered direct from Minor. And, you get tracked shipping. Re leaf springs for civvy wheel, they're easily scratched. I made a set for a less than impressive, heavily reworked Revell '55 Chevy (The old, maligned H Series kit) using scrap PE frames and other scrap metal bits. I used measurements provided in a restoration parts site and worked from there. Total time for a pair of leaf springs - 3.5 hours. They are workable and have scratched, working coil over shocks too.

Doctors and lawyers are cut from the same cloth. Do you really trust someone who, since receiving his degree, is still only practicing after 30 years? Signed Joe Zrodlowski, Esq.

I'm SOL. Being completely surrounded by high-rises can do that.

Unless your building a a late '70s-late '80s Dodge /GMCs which were used by the U.S.Army and were painted with the then-standard MERDC pattern, just freehand the pattern. If you're building something more contemporary, google "camouflaged technical pickups" and check out the images. All of the camo is non-standard, field-applied stuff. This Waffen SS-style Plane Tree Pattern camo is interesting:

Mark E Smith, founder and lead singer with the Fall, dies aged 60. Great musician and just the guy you'd want covering your back in a bar fight.

Invest in a woodchipper.

Good tip, Bill. People tend to overlook the obvious problems. I use a Logitech Optical Trackball and I need to clean the ball and sensor screen regularly; otherwise, the pointer goes where and when it feels like.

No need for a find-my-phone app. Apply the K.I.S. S. principle How to prevent one from losing his iCrap devise : Use a dummy cord It's called a dummy cord for obvious reasons. You appear less stupid than you really are because you won't lose your friggin' phone at the artisanal kaleteria or while attending your weekly flugelhorn repair course.