SfanGoch

I didn't see that in the original post. That info must've been the reason for the edit he made.

AMT 6629 1965 Pontiac 2+2 includes 8-lug wheels.

All kits, accessories, tools and other supplies are ordered online. There is only one actual hobby shop here in the city, that being Jan's Hobby Shop on the Upper East Side. Aside from picking up Floquil , Polly Scale and Humbrol paints (racks full of them because nobody buys them, Better for me. ), I don't bother buying kits there. The prices for all kits are almost twice the manufacturers' suggested price. Yeah, I know the spiel about supporting LHS's; but, I'm not going to get fleeced doing it. Even when shipping is factored in with online purchases (and from overseas sites too), I'm saving heaps of mazuma.

Just the firewall. Doing that, and adding the 2 mm wide strip lined everything up perfectly. The only other things you'll need to do is tweak the lower rear and side edges (Is that the B or C pillar?) of the roof to conform to the curvature of the rear deck. The second thing is to re-scribe the rear door panel lines where they meet at the roof/body joint because the shape is incorrect.

It also makes regular appearances on Hogan's Heroes.

ABS and PVC are two different and dissimilar polymers. You can use Plastruct Plastic Weld or Bondene for bonding ABS. Both products are also good for use with styrene.

Got that one too.

ICM 35531 Minor makes an excellent MB G4 Detail Set for this kit, AVM 35029.

I made a cut down the center of the firewall and added 1 x 2 mm styrene strip to widen that area by 2 mm, which eliminated the poor fit of the roof. You'll have minimal seam cleanup on the mating areas. Has anyone else noticed this problem?

That's an Anycar. There were four or five different Anycars used in car loan ads for Manufacturers Hanover Trust bank in the 1970s.

You could always use it as a donor to build one of these

Cheaper alternative to determine if the wire you intend to feed through the loom will fit: Use a piece of 1/32"/.02"/.5 mm rod as a reference. That's how large the holes on looms included in, for example, MCG PE sets are. If the wire is thicker than the rod, it won't fit through the holes. A pocket engineering scale is a handy item to have in your tool box. You can get one for about four bucks here.

Somebody has a very low trigger level when deciding to do this. If that's the reason, 90% of all threads should be locked because of off subject replies/comments posted. Same with the R&M thread in AM/Resin.

Thanks.

Might as well go the whole nine yards and plate the tires. That would really make your entry at NNL/IPMS stand out among the competition.

Consider using wood grain decals. This company, Uschi van der Rosten, makes them. The set, Nr. 1008, is third from the bottom on the linked page. They even have a set for 1/24-1/25 Woody Wagons. There's a tutorial section which explains how to use the decals.

Is the engine stock, street, racing or other? I don't know how thick the ignition wire you're using is; but, I'd guess it's probably too thick to fit through the holes. It's like trying to run 12/2 BX cable through the eye of a needle. If it's a factory stock engine, I'd suggest using .012 inch ignition wire, which is the right size to simulate the wires on a 1/24-1/25 stock engine.

Glad to see you're back on this one, Casey. Extremely interesting project and your construction commentary is very informative. I see that you're using threaded bolts for the shackles. Sorry if I missed this in previous posts; but, what size are they?

Might rain tomorrow.

You're fortunate to have flea markets where you can find stuff like that. This is the kind of krapp available at the ones near me. Beyond sad, man.

I avoid watching the videos altogether. Verbosity and dullness are a lethal combination when it comes to shilling goods. I prefer hitting the R2 website and hope to see some projected products which might interest me. Chad is better suited to hawking handcrafted macaroni-on-velvet artwork at a local Saturday artisanal flea market.

Seriously, these videos make for tedious viewing.

If he's on a ladder checking out stuff on the upper shelves and the ladder slips causing him to hold on to said shelf to avoid falling, does that make him a hanging Chad?

I agree with everything mikemodeler said here and here with the exception of "modelers" which is a generalization. Specifically, it's car modelers who are cheap. I've stated the same numerous times. Car modelers do the BMW ( rhymes with Pitch, Bone & Wine ) because kit prices are in the $25-$35 range. Check out the prices on armor. A large number start at $70+. Consider yourselves fortunate you aren't paying anywhere near that. What you pay for a car kit is a drop in the bucket in comparison. Unlike car models, it is rare to find armor kits on sale with decent discounts. Getting back to the first quote, regardless of the kit price, one should expect better quality control from the manufacturers. The issues with warpage, misalignment, etc., are a problem which affect a buyer's perception of the manufacturer's standards and dedication to offering quality products. The kit manufacturers we are familiar with aren't greenhorns who are new to the business. They've been in the game long enough to know that producing kits with multiple issues will affect their bottom line --- making money. The "average" modeler buys a kit because the subject interests him. Keep in mind that, because he is an "average modeler", he most likely doesn't possess the skills required to perform corrective surgery to correct the faults. This is something that more than a few here dismiss and wave off with "Well, all you need to do is hack this, add that....." types of response. They obviously can't for the reasons I stated.

Zei gezunt. I just brought up scratching springs because, let's face it, all leaf springs aren't created equal. Vehicle-specific, different lengths, different leaf widths, etc. If you want rivet counter quality, you have no option except to make your own. Photo etching your own isn't necessary. Like I said, using scrap PE frames or K&S brass strip stock can be used. Annealing the ends of of the leaves which require rolling allows you to do so without fancy bening tools and whatnot. The ones I made are identical in width, each leaf is the proper length and all holes, hand drilled with a pin vise, are centered and everything aligns properly. But, hey, that's me.