SfanGoch

The parts are from the Monogram kit Casey posted. In the future, all you need to do is take the first four digits and preface them with "AMT", Revell" etc. It took less than ten seconds to get the result.

Knowledge never gets old or irrelevant. What you learned yesterday may be extremely useful tomorrow because one never knows what the future holds in store for us. "I do not know how the Third World War will be fought, but I can tell you what they will use in the Fourth -- rocks!" Al Einstein, Super Genius

To avoid agita when attempting to foil door handles, cough up the gelt and get cast silver ones from Owencraft. They're swell.

Microscale Metal Foil Adhesive was spirit-based years ago. It was reformulated as a water-based product. You can also use Mona Lisa Metal Leaf Adhesive.

What's the number? Let me try. I'm pretty good at finding obscure stuff on the Dub-Dub-Dub.

That's a steal, man. When completed, it's almost three feet long, no?

When I studied Aero Engineering, we used slide rules or paper and pencil. My technical drawing teacher, The late, great and always grouchy Lt.Col. C. Kyrie Kallas USAF (Ret), always liked to use this paraphrased quote from "Have Spacesuit-Will Travel": "Anyone who can't use a slide rule is a cultural illiterate and should not be allowed to vote." That was the clean version.

Flip the sprues over and see if there are any numbers on the large tabs. Usually, it will be the manufacturer's kit number and you can google it to get a result.

If it's a water-based acrylic, I would recommend isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. It does decrease drying time; but, you need to adjust the pressure and flow from your airbrush so that the paint doesn't dry as it is sprayed and you end up with a rough, pebbly finish. For a lacquer-based acrylic, use a good automotive lacquer thinner.

A No. 2 pencil and a piece of paper work. No problem with short displays.

You can use Microscale MI-8 Micro Metal Foil Adhesive About four bucks for a bottle. Or, you can use Gator Glue, available in regular and thin blends It's essentially PVA, similar to Elmer's Glue but with a different formulation. All three products are water soluble, making cleanup of any excess easy.

Store brand aluminum foil is thin enough to use in combination with foil adhesive.

Cat herding is pretty easy. I've been doing it for years. Let them think that they're in charge. Let's face it, James. When it comes to model car kits, there ain't much to talk about except new box art and the same rehashed kits with new decals and tires.

Rich has an unlisted inbox.

It's Forest Green. I had that exact Custom Shop kit.

It looks like the one manufactured by All American Models.

Kevin, I got this C-57D (PL5098) for only 78 bucks on eBay. I also have the newer PL812 with crew figures and ID Monster. I was lucky to snag that one for only $49.99 when Entertainment Earth had it on sale some years back.

Here's Manny's reply: Hey joe, all orders are done through email or Facebook message on Craig Hosfeld VCG Resins.Email is mannyclub2000@yahoo.comIf using a credit card for an order you can send a phone number to call. Once I get the order email of face book message I can call and have the total etc ready. As of right now I am not doing. Restoration parts go, I haven’t had the time to go through the molds. Trying to make more room in the shop. I am in the shop 14-16 hrs a day, and always busy here I try to get back to people either the same day or the next day.Manny

The Facebook page is active. I PM'ed him to get the lowdown on the situation. I'll let you know as soon as I receive a reply. Edit: I found this while scrolling through the posts on FB: ...you need to email what you would like with the qty each, your mailing address etc. i will send you the total and invoice number. you can email me at mannyclub2000@yahoo.com or you order on here in a message. any questions feel free to ask. Manny So, use the web page as a reference, pickout the stuff you want and follow the above instructions.

VCG Resins has the '64 and '65 Falcon hoods. Look under "Replacement Parts". The '65 hood is listed in "Mold # AD" and the '64 hood in "Mold # DH".

Nothing wrong with reviving an old thread. Someone might be able to add to it with more recent information which could benefit all. Be glad that this board allows older thread to be bumped up to the top when new replies are added. This keeps them relevant until they run their course. There are plenty of boards that don't and many interesting discussions get buried. If one does run across some thread, which might only be a few days old, and wants to post a comment, it might be kicked down so many pages that nobody will bother reading it.

You can experience zombie reality by taking a walk in my neighborhood on any given day. How does a zombie maintain structural integrity to be able to overpower anyone? Since zombies are dead, they are in a state of ongoing decomposition and there is no cell regeneration. They have no muscles and can't weigh more than an average hipster, who also has no muscles. Why do they amble about in herds? And, why do they eat? They're dead. It's obvious that an all-protein diet doesn't do a thing for them.

The silly gimmicky weapons annoy the hell out of me. Daryl and his crossbow, Michonne and her oversized ginsu, Morgan and his stick.... What's next, are they going to add a guy whose specialty is shooting paperclips? My kid and I bet on how many times Rick makes that dumb, deer-caught-in-headlights, open mouth stare in each episode.

Everybody knows there's nothing past page 1. Many who attempted to go to page 2 fell off the edge of their computer screens, never to be seen or heard from again.

Two possibilities here. Either you didn't remove all of the mold release or the caster used cheap resin. Get some Duplicolor self-etching primer. AutoZone and Pep Boys carry it. You also might want to wash and scrub the parts again with dishwashing liquid and wipe them down with acetone (not nail polish remover) before using the self-etching primer.