stitchdup

I use hok on some builds. I use duplicolour primers, silvers,golds and clears with them. I've also used tamiya paints under them with no ill effects. This datsun is duplicolour white primer, hok hot pink with the fade on the sides done with tamiya before the pink went on. The clear is duplicolour also. and this is brandywine over duplicolour high impact gold and this is limegold over duplicolour silver. if you look close you can see where i toughed up a chip in the paint over the window which worked better than i expected with it being a pearl I'm going to be trying another brand of paint under hok in a couple of weeks

dont expect to sleep much TJ, its easy to lose a whole day and not realise with gran tourismo

wisconsin is a place i only know off through cheeses

I'm visiting my sister in newcastle this week and yesterday i found a brand of paint called montana that is seemingly aimed for graffiti. I've seen some of the chrome paint sprayed on a few walls around here and it seems to be a reasonably decent chrome effect so I've bought a tin of gold and chrome to try under my hok pearls and candies. Its an acrylic paint and was £8 a tin from hobby craft. I'll not be back home for another 10 days but will post pics of how then. I'm hopeful it does what i want. I also bought some tamiya weathering powders and a new pe saw set with much finer teeth than tamiyas versions. I've found the tamiya saws are just a little too course for cutting thin resin prints so maybe the fine teeth will reduce that happening. They also had tamiya bottle paints for half price if you are near one of these stores. I think later today or maybe tomorrow I'm going to an actual model shop which i'm looking forward to. It'll be nice to see what I'm buying before paying

sadomasochism is only fun for one participant

you can get 10 or 12 grams from a lot of model supply places for about 5 bucks or if you want more you can but it from motorsport prep shops in larger quantities for around the same price. If you were in the uk i'd say try motorsport services as they have many different shades and the fibres are shorter than you get from model stores. the size you want is 2 or 3mm from this store but they do them up to 15mm lengths. if i remember correctly their small bag is a half kilo and it will do thousands of carpets. avoid the gold flock though, it is more metalic than the others and it seems to affect how it sticks, though i'll mix a pinch of it in the other colours to give more of a carpet look

has there been a recent update to your browser? if there has you may be able to bring it back to how you like it in the settings.

there was a version in the late 60s/early 70s in 1/25 scale.

It may be a seperate part on the 1/1. you might not need to blend it at all. if it was a part thats smooth with the body it probably wouldn't be a pe part

Usually humbrol clear fix but if its a modern type glass with the black surrounds i use ordinary white glue as I've found the humbrol marrs the black

DHL. the most incompetent delivery company out there. They can collect parcels from my house but seemingly it doesn't exist for deliveries. I see their yellow vans every day and they have a local depot but if i paid for delivery i want it delivered. Do they expect me to carry 20 bottles of resin 2 miles? i paid for their service, not to do it myself. DHL is so awful they make hermes look good

did you get the pe pieces in the kit? if not mine had 2 so i've got a spare.

nicely done, is this the original revell bus or the more recent version

use something like a kitchen cleaner that has bits in it. In the uk id say use cif cream but theres bound to be an equivelent usa band. oven cleaner would probably work too as it destroys chrome and copper but it would take longer than normal kit chrome

yes it is a snapper, nicely done though and once its together nobody would be any the wiser

i'd use a drop of the black paint. when its close to touch dry is the best time to place it so it doesn't sink into the paint too much. Maybe lightly sand the back of the pe part too so it has something to bite onto but that best done while it still on the pe sheet

to my primary 3 teacher at school, mic drop

Well it turns out i have the scales correct. The south american vws aren't the same size as the euro the ones i see regularly. These use more audi style mechanics so the proportions of the euro cars is defferent. I'd been trying them against a revell mk1 golf as i know how they would compare if it was earo cars. I'm away to slap myself with a cold salmon now, lol

would it be some sort of torsion bar suspension

is that an essential oil?

There's not really much difference imo. If its thin it tends to be brittle so some things need more care taken, but its easy to knock the edges down with normal model tools. The g3 pick up i've been working with has thin sides so it has broken on me a few times so its been reinforced with epoxy and styrene behind the breaks. If you can build a resin model you can easily work with 3d printed resins. You must wear a mask when sanding it though but thats just common sense really

Heres last nights prints. I've included the puma gtb with the vws as the previous puma was vw based while this one is chevy opala based. It originaly came with a straight 6 puma gte. these were built on the brasilia vw floorpans. skoda 110. rear engined eastern european car and incidentaly the first rear engined car I remember seeing. It was outside a local shop and i was facinated to see these to nutty old women putting their shopping where i knew the engines were. In my defence i was under 5 years old and my dad was a ford guy (had a mk2 savage cortina) so i'd never seen anything rear engined except my uncles camper. I'll probably build this on a beetle chassis

I'd try the hot water trick suggested above since you've really nothing to lose. you might be lucky and the paints is thick enough to peel off.

2020 vision does not mean you saw your way through a year no matter what a facebook post i saw said