stitchdup

thats not how it works. I'll use myself as an example. I really cant be bothered going back and fore bidding on items. I put in my max bid from the beginning and it will increase by the minimum each time somebody else bids. for example say the item is at 2.99 and i bid 15.00, my bid will show as 3.49 but will increase each time someone else bids until it reaches my max bid. Even then if you have bid the same amount as me, i would win it as my bid was first. If you look at the bid history when an item ends you can select it show automatic bids and you will see some bidders highlighted in blue. these are people that bid in the same way i do. its very rare that I'll bid again

limitations in materials hold beck advancements in technology

very cool, lookd like vw should have made them for the public instead of just factory use

imhotep is reputed to have been among the cruelest of pharaohs to rule egypt if they correctly interpeted the hyroglyphics

nice work on this. a tip for masking the glass that might help, mask the outside of the glass where you want the black, then use that as your guide while masking the side you are painting. it makes it much easier to see then using a pencil. you might also find window masks already cut to shape on ebay or at a model shop that carries detail upgrade

Cool build, it nice to see a bug with the german look done instead of cal/resto look

ah the car thats chassis was so thin walled they tended provide more suspension than the struts did

Just got a notification that these kits should start to ship around the 15th of april. Really looking forward to this one knowing making a road car should be fairly easy in mid summer when uscp get one to do an interior for. I'm hoping they also do an engine/bay for it or even an engine plate like the fujimi mk3 golfs.

would one of those solar chargers you get to save the battery help? I've never used one myself but i know a lot of the classic car owners around here use them through the winter when the cars are stored indoors. This seems like a job it would be good for and a decent one can be had for around $50. I think some of them can also be used to save codes while swapping over a battery too

it gets even harder to pick when you start to layer them over each other, and they all look good to start with too

call me old school, i still prefer a brick and screwdriver..... more info:- i worked in a body shop and people dont take the keys out of the ignition when they drop them off so i learned lots of other ways too. for example a ford modeo/contour can be totally unlocked with a half tennis ball or you can bend the top of the door out far enough to reach in if the glass is fully up, and one good jerk of the steering wheel deactivates the steering lock so its just the old fashioned connecting wires then, vauxhall corsa could be started with a two bits of fairly stiff wire and there even a guide now on youtube on how to steal a kia or hyundai with an hdmi lead. and almost every old mini can be started with any worn key of the same style. Theres loads of others for current cars but for obvious reasons i'm not going to share them. also I'm not a car thief, just the guy folk call when the garages fail to unlock their cars or they cant get a call out. I can guarentee to get anybody into any car using methods that can be surprisingly quick and if not i always make sure i can get the correct glass before i start with a brick and duct tape (cover the glass before the brick). I've not worked in the body shop for a lot of years now but i keep up on these things as i still gets calls occaisonally.

I think I might be the opposite of the OP. I enjoy starting with a poor kit more than with a good kit. I've built the lindberg 40 coupe and the revell and i had much more fun with the much maligned lindberg kit. I almost think if a kits too nice i find it less enjoyable as there less for me to play with but my satisfaction is the planning and building and very often i'll finish a build and after taking pics it gets dropped in the parts box to be messed about with again another time. At the same time i much prefer the revell 60s chevy fullsize over the amt versions bt the exception to that is the amt 62 bel air, its probably one of my fav kits even though I'm not that big a fan of the real car. Having said that though, i got rid of the vast majority of my 1/25 kits back in october but of the 1/25 kits i kept most are amt with a few of the revell pre war rods but everything else i have now is 1/24.

I was in a real honest to goodness model shop today. Bought some more tools and a load of weathering paints but i could have easily spent every penny i have in it. As it happens i limited myself to one basket but i managed to squeeze in a tamiya skyline 2000gt, tamiya 88 porsche 911 turbo (i have the blackbox engine file that fits this already) and the recent revell t3 bus.

he posted back in feb that his ms was causing him a lot of difficulties with his vision and dexterity. He said he may not be online much at all due to these nasty effects of the awful disease. I also hope he is ok, his posts are always positive and encouraging to other members

all i know off are these school bus. you could purchase the file and resize the front grille area. there may be others https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/chevrolet-6700-school-bus-1955-printable-body https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/chevrolet-6700-school-bus-1955-printable-body

are you sure you are contacting the correct store, theres a usa store and a spain store and the email you have looks like it could be the american one since it doesn't say spain

Craig Breedlove, the first man to enter both the 500mph and 600 mph club has passed away. He probably had a much longer life than expected after taking out a telegraph pole, then flying a good distance and landing in a salt pond after his parachute failed at over 500mph then his brakes failed leading to the crash. I certainly hope he enjoyed the extra years of life he had. The racers from this era just seemed to have something thats missing today in racing

if you look at the street machine aus website you can find a heap o pics of the custom holden 1/1s. a lot of them seem to tip the seats back at shows which may be to make it easier for photographers.

if you dont mind ordering from china, there are sets of nail art sets on amazon that include 30 plus small brushes, 12 different shaped metal tools and a pile of different nail varnishes and small tubs of "velvet" that just short flocking. usually these sets are around 10 bucks. the brushes are decent but they need to be cleaned carefully if using thinners as the glue used in them is poor. some sets have a few colours of nail varnish too. and also from china, there are sets of decals for doing patterns on nails that work for interior seat trim (buy 4 sets as there are odd numbers of each included) and they come in black or white patterns over a clear carrier film. they can be overpainted with acrylics as nail varnish is just thick car paint really. also if your clear coat on your 1/1 has areas of peeling around stone chips, a blob of clear nail varnish on it could save you a paintjob

If you have a bug body you could cut down the fenders from it to fit

I got a lesson in regional words today. I'm in newcastle visiting my sister and i went to a model railway shop looking for tools, mainly files. So i'm in the shop and i ask the guy behind the counter if they have any peedie files. The look of disgust i got from the guy was almost violent until i realised what i said and repeated it as small files. Up in orkney peedie just means small

I have a fork thats pretty much that shape that is useful, the telly on the boat i worked on was mounted to the wall and the only way to get to the sockets for the hdmi was to bend a fork into that shape so i didn't have to empty the life jacket store to loosen the mounting bolts.

actually its original use was for fancy gold lettering on books, you lay out some powder then use heated stamps to emboss the letters. if the coloured letters are slightly sunken then it was embossed, and its been used this way for half a millenium in europe and even longer in the arab nations and far east. if you have an old bible it will be embossed for all the gold lettering

a couple of hundred cars that can all be tuned, 60 tracks and you'll soon be looking for number 5 too. One tip that will help you at the start, do the licenses before the races but dont worry about getting golds yet, the golds can be got later and theres more of a bonus then. I tend to start with a civic or mazda miata/eunos/mx5 from the used cars shop, and i try not to tune them until the second group of races.