stitchdup

hobby design for engines , body kits, seats, engine parts and wheels eighteen81 for wheels, seats and spoilers aoshima and fujimi have fairly extensive aftermarket wheels and theres loads of 3d print engines if you look a tx3dcustoms and iceman collections

in some parts of the world lacquer is used to refer to the clear coat. I know when i worked in the body shop lacquer was just clear coat

there one of these running around my area, the same guy has one of the smart roadster things too and its massive compared to this.

the glossy bits are wet resin from it going pop

I'm finding the same. They want you to apply online and give them all the info they want but they dont have the common decency to say sorry not this time or drag it out so long that you are ready to give up. Or they have an over complicated application process thats almost impossible to follow correctly. But my main gripe is i have to prove I've applied for jobs but i cant do this without them writting back. Because they dont even write a 5 word email my income support while i'm unemployed is at risk every week. Give me the days of a cover letter and cv or application form back, all the tech has ruined finding a job now. And no face to face interviews when you do get interviewed. My hearing is bad so i cant do phone or video interviews as i just cant hear them over the hard drive spinning in the computer so this makes it just a bit more difficult. The last time i was looking for work the employer contacted me so i must have a good reputation for being a grafter

this is why you dont have on street tractor pulling

Nice work

its a solid, tamiya tell you on the label if its mettalic or pearl etc,

I beleive hobby design or scale production in germany do a trans kit to build one of the magnus wlker cars but i'm not sure which car.

I've got vlc too. it works for most media files except the video format h265. I run my hobby room stereo from it through bluetooth and use it for all my media. It can play from hard drives too and will show the album at if you have it but i think you may need to name all the pics as album art for that feature to work

market defecated on ma rug

supersaturated sounds like the average college experience

if pavlov's dog rang the bell would pavlov feed him?

i'm not a mac user but when this happens on the laptop a right click and open in new tab works. slighlt infuriating but it is what is

leather punch for up to 5mm, around 12 bucks in the hobby shop and does sizes from 2mm up to 5mm.

theres a resin traveller available too, its not great though and is taking a lot of extra work

I've asked the designer to do the wheels and tyres seperately or solid so I'll see what they say. Just gonna chuck all these wheels out i think cos its only 4 sets I've printed. Its less than the cost of a pint of milk so not a big loss

oven cleaner. not the enviroment friendly stuff but the stinky open your windows stuff in a spray can. put the model in a ziploc bag or plastic tub with a lid and spray it on. close the lid/seal and most will be loose in an hour so a scrub with a toothbrush will let you see how much is left on. some colours need a second or third shot but it works well on enamels and chrome. if theres bits not scrubbing off from the door shut lines use a toothpic to clean them out. wear gloves and a mask cos the fumes are nasty on the lungs and the oven cleaner will suck the moisture out of your skin but it works well and fast for enamels. this is for styrene only. oven cleaner can mess up resin even if your fast. if its resin you can use las totally awesome cleaner. Its slow but it works and is resin safe but you can probably only strip a couple of bodies before it gets weak. Its safe to use on resin though but you need to scuff up the clearcoat as it struggles with it and black/red primer. it may look as if its doing nothing but it seems to loosen the primer before the colour so give it a scratch every couple of days and eventually the paint comes off in sheets. scrub it with a toothbrush again, using the cleaner instead of water then rinse it under water. again it may need a few goes but this is my go to for resin. another option for resin is a q-tip and thinner for the paint you used. I haven't chanced dunking a resin body in thinners but i have used a q-tip to strip small area and parts

modellers resource have them too

Theres people like that in every hobby. How many of the recent hellcats were bought to stash away in the hope they are worth money in future. Then theres the guys that pre buy supercars just to sell on their place in the queue or sell the car without even driving it. They are the same as the guys going through the bins to find the rare ones. If it wasn't profitable none of these folks would do it so it must be good for the hobby. not for us buying them, but it drives up demand and interest

why not use an engine from a focus st? theres kits available to convert them to rwd for the euro mk2 escort/capri that include the electronics. You'd still need to convert that to run on the pinto loom but it would be a whole lot less work. Theres loads of part availale to tune the engine up to 350 or much more if you turbo it. Another option would be the honda s2000 engine. very popular conversion and already rwd again with all the electronics available, and highly tunable

Cool project. I think the shrinking is caused by the styrene formula heller use. It just feels different to the rest, with an almost polythene feel when its new. Its much softer than other brands too, at least for the car and small commercial kits, the trucks seem a little more brittle. I've noticed humbrol and revell's poly cements seems to bond much faster with it compared to the rest too but slower to fully set, almost at the same speed as when using evergreen styrene products.