stitchdup

I build at an old computer desk. I have tubs that fit under the bench for unfinished builds. The keyboard tray I have glued plastic to the back and now use it for most of my files and sanding sticks. small paints are in 2 drawers in an old set of drawers from a nurses home and i have 2 cupboard units from the same source that hold my flocking, some spray paints and my booth sits on top of them. My drill bits and smaller tools are in a small container thats molded into the keyboard drawer and i have 2 pint glasses for my brushes, one for clean and one for dirty. Now while i have a spot for everything, most of the time tools i use the most just dont get put back. I also have a travel set of tools that is in a resin box that includes doubles of many of my tools. To be honest much of my model room looks like a hoarder house with just a track from the door to my chair but its just how i feel comfortable working.

For filling large areas, or gaps in chops I've been using powdered finger nail filler. it works like the sprue goo but it sets hard in less than an hour. Its not much use for small areas but for large bits its great. It basicly a 2 part plastic and when its sets it is acrylic plastic the same as false nails. I dont recommend using it if you dont have good ventilation though, the fumes are very strong but its tough stuff. I use fairly course full size files to get it close then finish off with smaller files. Diamond files also dont work well with it. I've even used it to build up most of a body for a 37 lincoln

I have a mono x and the wash/cure station. I dont know what the airpure thing is but i manage fine without it. I would advise you to get a decent usb drive as the one that comes with the printer is garbage and can cause problems with prints. I'm using the anycubic grey uv resin but i'm planning to start using the waterwashable stuff soon as I'm going through a lot of alcohol for clean up. The resin is cheaper to buy in bulk on ebay but single bottles are usually about he same price everywhere. before you buy the printer check your computers processor, you want it to be at least 6 gig as anything smaller wont run the slicer programs and you cant print without it. I'm using lychee slicer but there are others that do the same job. Is it just car bodies you want to print or do you want to do anything bigger? the mono x will print up to a 1/22 car bodies but anything bigger will be a fairly tight fit and trucks will be a struggle too.

Well i decided to build an old truck. The cab is printed from a design by gaudiero but i scaled it from 1/25 to 1/24. I'll be using a chassis by krisbizzle for a squarebody under it with a blackboxstl 572 motor. Wheels are ekstensive style semi rims and this will be slammed. I couldn't find a file for the rear fenders so I'm scratchbuilding them. I'm doing them a little oversized to suit the wheels. At the moment I'm thinking either a flatbed or box body truck as i have an unfinished hauler already. Paint will be various shades of green, yellow and patina

poo tins have been fitted for dog walkers to use

que'ue makes much more sense than ckue

Not got any pics because i didn't have a camera. My last project car was a 1993 mk3 golf vr6 gti (no sunroof) but i sold the engine to a friend for his mk2 golf and played about with some 16 valvers. I had it for 5 yeras and in that time it ran throttle bodies from a honda fireblade, twin 45s, a very bad g60 conversion (never could get everything to seal well enough to have any fun) and to end up it had a very high mainentance turbo putting near 260 to the front wheels. It had air suspension, shortend rear beam and was on 16" passat steels widened to 8 and a half on the front and 10s on the back. The body was stock and the colour was indian red which apparently a rare colour. there were primer spots coming out the arch trim so while i saved for a real paintjob it got touched up with whatever duplicolour was cheap at the time. The interior didn't match but i had plans to ditch it and go single seat and stripped out interior. the ultimate plan was a completely smoothed body, body colour rear lights, smoothed engine bay with no visable wires with a turbo (not for power, they just look smoother than the other options i played with) stripped and smoothed interior with one bucket and maybe an audi tt dash. It was unreliable and kinda ugly but i enjoyed everything about that car and i regret selling it, even if i aint allowed to drive. I will build a model of it sometime

its a bit dark

stopping for the paps didn't work out too well for diana did it now. now having your mother chased to her death by the same poor excuses of humans may have something to do with it. also michael caine isn't being chased around on the chances he has a nip slip or drops a kid,

yes. mostly coloured chrome but theres even holographic tape but i aint figured out a use for it yet. It 2mm wide

nail art striping tape, its rolls of foil thats a little thicker than bmf. comes in loads of styles from chrome through matt finishes and its cheap. you can get 30 rolls for less than 5 bucks delivered on amazon

I'd try to find a local tuning shop that does stereo builds. They would be more likely to have a way to get rid or bypass the ford radio as thats their business. Or find who the ford radio supplier is and contact them through their help desk,

i'd glue it bt i'm not worried about my models rolling.

I've got one each of their vw bodies and numerous sets of their wheels. I dont have any complaints about them

I'd find some styrene rod the size of the hole in the centre of the brakes and glue that in the holes, flush to the edges, then drill out the centre to suit the new rims

themes are much more fun at grown ups parties cos we at least get a laugh

iceman collections do a very nice buick/rover v8. it can be built as either version

This represents the fuel system. Since it would be a lot of effort to fit a liquid system for display, instead they used this. each time the hammer gets hit by the crank the light should flash. the hammer represents your fuel system in a much more visual way for teaching and also makes the display easier to manufacture. The part coming off the side would represent the fuel lines coming from the tank and the part at the crank would represent the throttle/engine speed.

I'd guess its a petrol engine. a diesel would have no need for the spark plug as the glowplugs are only used for starting. The light would represent the spark plug in a petrol engine and would flash depending where the crank is. it should flash at the same time as the fuel hammer moves. does this have a hand crank on it? Thats a cool thing to find, my tech teacher only had a lego technik thing thats similar to that. Yours is much cooler than his was.

there are 2 issues of the ala kart kit. the most recent version does have an undersized engine. there are long threads complaining about it on nearly every kit review site if you care to look/research further

bugs, or beetles to the layman, are considered the best selling car of all time but in reality the f150 has sold many more and may as well be considered a car nowadays

who'd a thunk rodders would be using engines from a slow gun carriage, lol

There is another option, the french army used flatheads well into the 80s that have better cooling among other upgrades. I think they only stopped casting them in the mid 80s and a lot of the drag race flatheads in europe use those blocks. There was a load of them, still new in the crate available towards the end of the 90s.

try the link i posted 3 posts up, they are fluted

yes, its based on the datsun 240z. heres one that sent the internet on fire a couple of years ago.