stitchdup

leather punch for up to 5mm, around 12 bucks in the hobby shop and does sizes from 2mm up to 5mm.

theres a resin traveller available too, its not great though and is taking a lot of extra work

I've asked the designer to do the wheels and tyres seperately or solid so I'll see what they say. Just gonna chuck all these wheels out i think cos its only 4 sets I've printed. Its less than the cost of a pint of milk so not a big loss

oven cleaner. not the enviroment friendly stuff but the stinky open your windows stuff in a spray can. put the model in a ziploc bag or plastic tub with a lid and spray it on. close the lid/seal and most will be loose in an hour so a scrub with a toothbrush will let you see how much is left on. some colours need a second or third shot but it works well on enamels and chrome. if theres bits not scrubbing off from the door shut lines use a toothpic to clean them out. wear gloves and a mask cos the fumes are nasty on the lungs and the oven cleaner will suck the moisture out of your skin but it works well and fast for enamels. this is for styrene only. oven cleaner can mess up resin even if your fast. if its resin you can use las totally awesome cleaner. Its slow but it works and is resin safe but you can probably only strip a couple of bodies before it gets weak. Its safe to use on resin though but you need to scuff up the clearcoat as it struggles with it and black/red primer. it may look as if its doing nothing but it seems to loosen the primer before the colour so give it a scratch every couple of days and eventually the paint comes off in sheets. scrub it with a toothbrush again, using the cleaner instead of water then rinse it under water. again it may need a few goes but this is my go to for resin. another option for resin is a q-tip and thinner for the paint you used. I haven't chanced dunking a resin body in thinners but i have used a q-tip to strip small area and parts

modellers resource have them too

Theres people like that in every hobby. How many of the recent hellcats were bought to stash away in the hope they are worth money in future. Then theres the guys that pre buy supercars just to sell on their place in the queue or sell the car without even driving it. They are the same as the guys going through the bins to find the rare ones. If it wasn't profitable none of these folks would do it so it must be good for the hobby. not for us buying them, but it drives up demand and interest

why not use an engine from a focus st? theres kits available to convert them to rwd for the euro mk2 escort/capri that include the electronics. You'd still need to convert that to run on the pinto loom but it would be a whole lot less work. Theres loads of part availale to tune the engine up to 350 or much more if you turbo it. Another option would be the honda s2000 engine. very popular conversion and already rwd again with all the electronics available, and highly tunable

Cool project. I think the shrinking is caused by the styrene formula heller use. It just feels different to the rest, with an almost polythene feel when its new. Its much softer than other brands too, at least for the car and small commercial kits, the trucks seem a little more brittle. I've noticed humbrol and revell's poly cements seems to bond much faster with it compared to the rest too but slower to fully set, almost at the same speed as when using evergreen styrene products.

Nice work,

are the wheels decent in this version of the kit?

heres the version for adults

for the 16v try modelbuilderswarehouse https://www.modelbuilderswh.com/ and look for the clearly scale engines. they are very nice and they have the last of them. I already have the gearbox. There is a resin 3 door available on ebay, i have one and it use the fujimi guts. The engine bay I'm doing wont have any of the firewall detail as i like the bare bays more than loads of old coke bottles filling the space. this is the style i am going for

i do cleaned style engine bays for the mk1, 2 and 3 is on its way once i finish the front panel to suit it. I have gearboxes too and various mirrors, steering wheels and other parts. I also have jetta bodies for all 3 in 2 and 4 doors and I'm working on some aircooled stuff

if its 3d resin you can use thinners for the paint you used, I'm not sure with the other materials what would work

Cool, it really suits being shortened

what are they printed with?

the auto feed on my big printer has stopped working right as I'm about to start a larger print. now i have to keep checking on it so it dont run dry instead of going out doing stuff

i'm noticing that, the front cover is maybe 1/4 inch diameter, 8 pieces and some are like pe parts so difficult to remove from the sprue,lol. at least i can get most of it built before any paint is done and its almost all one colour so i can paint it assembled like the real thing. I'm building the road tractor just now and i've noticed the molding is great, and most of the joins are hidden

sorry to say he passed away-

So this was printed back in late november. The paint is acrylic from warhammer. The resin is anycubic normal stuff. Its been in a box since late december and i went to use them the other day to find one had popped. It only happened to this one wheel and tyre. There has been some temprature flucuations over the last month so I have to assume that is the cause though the room it was in is pretty much a constant temp.

these have arrived over the past week. I thought i had them all but it turns out there another couple and some farm equipment in 1/24 too so I'll be hunting them down too. pics from internet. My only gripe with these kits are the too many tiny parts that could have been one piece, and the plastic tyres but neither is going to stop me having them built cos i like tractors. The lanz tractor company is owned by john deere now