stitchdup

all the chrome on the underside of this elco was done in january 2017. it has not been cleared and was done with the 2mm pen. It has sat in a cabinet since then. it is over duplicolour clear and paints. It has lost some shine where its a bit thinner but the majority still has a shine

not once their opened. the refills might last longer since they dont have the felt tip to let air in.

yeah, i get a lot of paint from graf city in wales, much bigger tins if you need non metallic colours too. they are pretty thin but cover well and 8 quid ($10) a tin. loads of different paint pens too including some you put your own paint into which i want to try. maybe on my next paint order

kindig describe most of their cars as restomods, including the cf1s which are 100% new parts

It has a shelf life of around a year once opened. I wouldn't even bother with the refill as the 6 and 8mm tips are cheaper and has the refill inside anyway. The left overs can be mixed with craft acrylics and tamiya so it can be useful to make a flat paint metallic but it will never be chrome again. also the molotowe pens are much cheaper from grafitti stores, the model places add another 50% when they sell it. they can keep longer if they dont get temperature fluctuations but the longest i've had one last was about 18 months and it was stored in a cool cupboard. I suspect it may be the alcohol carrier evaporating from the ink which causes it to lose its lustre

just a local takeaway, we dont have any of the restaurant chains on the islands

theres been a set of this chassis on ebay uk for about 5 years now, i think they have a body and other parts too. only 240 quid if you want all 3 parts

treated myself to pizza tonight, might as well have been bread with tom sauce cos there was 9 bits of cheese and 4 of chicken. I paid for a pizza, not a sendwich

Well I've not even cut any plastic yet and my plan has to change slighly as the zetec is far too tall for the 7, even if i scale it at 1/25 so instead I'll use the bda out of the zackspeed escort kit which should fit as the bda was just a twin cam crossflow. Its still going to be on throttle bodies though

nice work, you should put your files on one of the trading sites, being for a supernatural vehicle it would probably be a good seller. I know i'd buy the door panels

If you search pirelli on cults there are a few to choose from. It might be worth looking at slowlys model wheels sets too as some of the sets of custom wheels have vintage tyres but i'm not sure if they are a specific brand.

I really enjoyed watching you work on this. When you compare what you started with to the finished result you would struggle to believe it was the same kit

we could save the hassle of someones build not meeting the criteria by combining resto mod and pro touring. That way its a little more open and less chance of stuff not meeting the rules or arguments over what does and doesn't meet the rules. I know whatever i built would probably end up more pro touring than resto as the body is my fav bit to modify and i have a c1 camaro transkit i want to use which is def more pro, lol)

ok a strange one and not really car related but NASA have free 3d models available. I saw curriosity rover among the files and being its NASA i would expect the quality to be good.I'm sure it would be great for sci fi and diorama folks https://nasa3d.arc.nasa.gov/models/printable

Why identity crisis you ask? well during the 90s i worked in a paint shop and these were murder to order parts for as some were mx-5, some were eunos and some were miata and it made getting parts murder sometimes. but on with the build. its done as a youths car in the 90s. the paints shiny but everything is just a little worn out inside. none of the trim matches, the seats are cheap buckets, the wheels are cast offs from something else (in this case a vw beetle) and the lights are tinted green while the markers were just painted over because bodywork is expensive and we didn't really know what we were doing, lol. This is how we did our first cars back then and shiny paint and alloy wheels were the first things done, then you bought colour matched lights or bought a tin of spray tint from halfords that flaked off cos we did it wrong (instructions, pah!) and last was cheap bucket (anybody remeber britax?)seats or recaros from an old capri. this was started at 10.30am and completed by11pm last friday including polish and 4 layers of paint (all acrylic model paints) and i can now say i finished something this year

if the kits in the original box you could use the copyright dates and box info on older usa kits as some of the older johan and amt said what the tyres included were, but they may just give you a general time frame. most of the newer tyres dont seem to be branded on us manufacturer kits but the japanese kits are. I think most of the japanese race car kits have plain slicks, but some include decals for them or there are paint masks available too. I wont start onto the aftermarket as there are hundreds available in resin, plastic, rubber and prints for pretty much any application you can think off. some are great and some might as well be tap washers so if the pics are poor i'd avoid them. the best guide with aftermarket is if they go the trouble of getting clear pics of the detail on their tyres then they are most likely proud of them and put in the effort to get them right. If the pics are poor then the product is usually poor. to find out what tyres go on what your probably best to use a site like michelin or coker tyre that might list the applications they suit

we call that Eu de scalper, a fine mix between old plastic, thinners and stale sweat

From looking at the pics google brings up for a 1932 cadillac v16 engine there appears to be 3 different styles. One is two 8 cylinder disributors mounted beside each other, one is more like what we're used to seeing and the third is just all the wires coming out one slot, but it may be a cover over a distributor. if it was me i'd probably go for the third one since it should be an easy part to make

slowlys models - various parts and wheels for most ages of vehicle including nice tube fronts for r32 through r34 skylines. some parts have different versions for each brand. also has old custom parts for pre war styles and lowrider bombs. ditomaso147 - a wide variety of hotrod, custom, mini truck and drag parts. various mopar and gm hotrod bodies and chassis in numerous scales. be sure you have the right scale when purchasing as some items are 1/64 or 1/24 seperately

I wouldn't mind them, its looks pretty cool and i have datsun truck with a destroyed chassis it might work on

As many of us have access to a 3d printer now I thought it would be a good idea for us to review the designers. I know I've bought files that looked good in the pics but were trash once printed. Si this is a thread to recommend the designers, and to list they types of parts they do. for example i'll review andrey_bezrodney - full kits of various vehicles from classic american pick ups through to modern european tuners. Usually at least one new kit each month in various scales and for motobas - mostly engines and detail parts and highly detailed. engines vary from muscle cars to supercars and classics. most need scaled down from 1/10 scale king3d - various south american sold cars, wheels and parts. quality varies but is improving and prices are low. has the most accurate vw sp2 body and some unusaul racecars and trucks blackbox - various kits, parts and accessories. mostly aimed towards tuners but theres some modern muscle parts too

nice, is that your own design?

they tried to do the same thing with a 36 on the rust to riches show on netflix. it was the usual hackjob from those waterjet cowboys