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Everything posted by stitchdup
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Other model car forums
stitchdup replied to ColonelKrypton's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
sadly we had to lock it up due to spammers but all you need is an email address. -
Source for Micro Balloons
stitchdup replied to 58 Impala's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I just use the filings and sanding dust from my bench. it works just the same as micro balloons and we already have it on our benches and its almost free. you can use pretty much any powdered stuff though, within reason. most of the time i have some filler and plastic dust saved up for using as its handy for holes. theres also finger nail filler but it works best with its own catalyst and it stinks bad, and its pretty tough to file down, -
Other model car forums
stitchdup replied to ColonelKrypton's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
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better not think about rock a bye baby too much then, lol
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logged in this morning to find the site full of spam, theres enough of it to make the unread content feature near useless
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Artists that should be in the Rock n' Roll Hall of fame.
stitchdup replied to Mike C.'s topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
are those music groups or the 17th century accused in court list? -
me too, lol. my biggest gripe with it is the roof. they have the roof far too flat from side to side. i've been tempted to swap the fujimi mk2 golf roof in to replace from 2mm inwards on the roof. the edges they got right, just messed the middle up. the front seats are pretty bad too and everything else is a simple fix or upgrade if you use the revell mk1 golf as a donor. also if you want to make it a vr6 you'll need to widen the front arches half a mm as it has wider fenders. I just need to decide which engine to put in it and how many of them
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It probably will but you can also put the channel in the frame itself. it would make the repair stronger. You might still need to do a channel in the glass too depending what you use for the support and how much plastic there is on the frame. A flattened staple from a magazine might be good option for something thin
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my sister calls me to catch spiders in her house. she will stand as far away from the spider in the same room to be sure she sees where it is when i get there. it doesn't matter what time of the day or night it is, she just wont be able to move until she knows its caught. and it has to be caught a special way too, one time i picked it up with my hand and she didn't speak to me for nearly 3 days (it was bliss, lol) i dont know what she does if a house she goes to in her paramedic job has spiders
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looking good so far
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A bit more progress. the chassis now fits the body and floor. i've got the engine bay mostly fabricated and i think i wont have to build a cowl hood as the engine mounts lower now theres no floor to the bay. I've also panelled in under the arches just so its a bit neater looking. i'll be removing a little more plastic from the top edge of the engine bay and interior tub to tighten the fit a bit more. I've also extended the sills so they are now double the depth but i think i added too much as the front and rear look to be too far from the ground now. I'm going to give adding some more depth to both some thought before i cut any plastic. I'm pretty sure all the big fabrication is done now, apart from making space for the exhaust, so its going back over it and adding the details and filler now.
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http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/11/gymkhana-superstar-the-hoonicorn-rtr-exposed/ http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/12/the-hoonicorn-rtr-build-story/
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you can use pretty much any powder with superglue. I personally wouldn't use baking powder as i've found if there is any moisture it froths up, sometimes months later. Just gather up some plastic dust and use that instead. or fingernail filler powder works too if you want a solid piece but it works better when used with its own catalyst. it basically a kit for making acrylic nails but it works fine for our hobby too, though it is very stinky so a good mask is required with it. kits are available from the big warehouse store for not much $s, mine was about $7 delivered
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I can smell canada burning from my house thanks to a northerly wind. we can see the smoke too when its clear. I imagine there will be some interesting smoke trails on the ice just now
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Found a use for 3d print supports
stitchdup replied to stitchdup's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
If you have parts normally stacked like that one set of supports will have to start from the part which would mean 2 sets of supports to remove and clean off which would lose a lot of any fine details. At the moment the supports are under 1mm diameter and when you place the parts you make sure the face you want to see the detail on is facing up so the supports are on the glue face. if you tried to mount exhausts in the supports they would probably end up ruined from have 2 sets of supports as one set would have to come off the nice face -
As the title says i've found a use for the left over supports from 3d printing. I needed to alter a chassis and since its resin i figured using some of the supports for pins would be the best material to use. Its worked well but its no use for smaller parts due to the size of the supports. I've also been using pieces of the supports to make dash switches and knobs. I think it has possibilities to replace straight sections of rod and the raft/islands may be useful for flat areas and since its pretty much waste it could almost be considered free!. I've used boiling water previously to shape some printed door panels so i'll save the raft from my next print to experiment with some shaping.
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banger racing is the same as your demolition derby, the dirt track type cars could be from the hotrod racing series which used small saloon cars and 2 litre engines in the most commonly known racecars but there is also the early versions of the legends cars that are 2/3 scale 34 and 37 fords now mostly but the early cars were built from scrap. during the 70s it wasn't that uncommon to find old gt1 and f1 racecars cannbalised for other race cars such as big bertha (vauxhall firenza) supervan 1 (ford transit with a gt40 racecar under the skin and various others.
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Hydrogen powered truck
stitchdup replied to Scott8950's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Most of the infrastructure for hydrogen already exists. its not difficult to convert oil storage to hydrogen storage. the problem lies with detecting leaks as with oil theres something to see while hydrogen needs to be in a huge quantity to be detected as a leak. there has been a hydrogen fuel station and delivery vans and trucks running locally for a few years now and they seem to be doing away fine. but orkney has emec (european marine energy college) based here and they are heavily invested in hydrogen. personally i think we have some choices to make regarding hydrogen, and some will shock green groups because i think we need to sacrifice some wilderness to wind and solar power in order to generate electricity to make hydrogen, then use that hydrogen for power generating and fuel. Use the existing oil infrastrucrure and save a lot of money, and also use up already poluted land that will cost billions to clean up. hydrogen is also a better option for farmers as an ev tractor will never be as good as something you can fill in 5 mins, and still be sure your existing equipment work. all the ev tractors they've shown have also been using ev equipment which along with an extra cost on our food prices means a much heavier drain on our electricity supplies. some heavy investment in detecting hydrogen leaks and we'll soon see it pushed as the miracle to save our energy supplies from the scourge of evs -
Hydrogen powered truck
stitchdup replied to Scott8950's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
could be a cool tesla powered rod, not sure where to hide the batteries though -
Printing the correct size drag wheel
stitchdup replied to V8tiger's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
you should have an option to scale the parts in your slicer. just select the wheel then put the sizes you need into the scale feature. be sure to turn off scaling all dimensions so you can input the sizes individually. i use lychee slicer and this option is part of the scale section on the lower left side block of options -
All these protest groups are getting out of hand. I saw one today for a stop motion college
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I've made up some new door panels but i'm going to scrap the handles and start over. I got them completely the wrong shape. The challenge will be getting them to look right and fit with the seats. I've still got a load of shaping to do on the dash but its getting there. once its right i can finish off the centre console. I've also reworked the trunk. i removed the floor and will be using the chassis plate as the floor. If i get it right i should be able to use the chassis fuel tank to copy a detail from the real car and have an opening flap over the fuel tank. I've reshaped the tank to move it further back in the chassis to help with this. I'm also working on the engine bay. I started by gluing strips of styrene together and then used the same to fill up the spaces. I then cut out a lot of the engine bay sides. I'll be taking the dremel to this later to get the wheels to fit again. then i can continue shaping the visible parts. It would probably be easier to scratch build a new bay but doing it this way retains the kit mounts for most parts and should make assembly simpler later as none of the mounts have changed. I'm using this engine for mock ups but will be modifying an intake to be close to the real car. As you can see the engine is taller than the body so i'll have to make a cowl hood. I'm not looking forward to that cos the plastic isn't very nice to get to stick, even using superglue. I'll probably give the underside of the arches a layer of epoxy around the edges later as i just dont trust the glue to hold. I've also fitted an iceman chassis. at the rear i cut the floor after filing it smooth, while at the front I've notched it ready for the chassis. Once i get the engine bay finished enough I'll cut the front off at the firewall and cut the chassis. I'm leaving it as late as possible as we all know how things can move before paint and i want to minmimise that possiblity. I'll probably end up replacing the front of the engine bay too and fitting a radiator as it can be seen through the grille, even though there is an engine cover that hides it from above. I've got to add some more depth to the sills. This has been done on the real car and will allow the chassis to be hidden and the side exit exhaust. I'll be cutting under the rear seat to get the exhaust in and will probably not be very efficient due to a lack of space for silencers but we'll see what happens when we get there
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it a c1-models trans kit. i think they still make it.