stitchdup

No its not a brasilia, it was a better car than this. This is a brazilian car based on the beetle floorpan while the brasilian was based on the type 4 pan and is a slightly bigger car then this. I fully intended to build this as it came in the box (its a printed kit i purchased before i got my printer) but the interior was sadly lacking and the rear seat wasn't even square. I tried cutting down the rear seat to be more square and doing some filling but the flaws just kept jumping out at me so i looked in my bug tub and found what i think is a polar lights beetle chassis that was a touch too long so i (still planning to keep it simple at this point) cut the engine/suspension from the rear and removed a little of the fork to get the axles where i wanted them. Next i cut down the sides of what i think is a tamiya bug rear seat, leaving the bottom 5mm connected so i could push the sides out at the top but this hasn't worked as i wanted so I'll be scratching some new rear panels for beside the seats. The rear was now going to be open and while i dont intend opening the trunk there looked to be enough space to get an engine in there and one thing led to another and soon the fork was all that was left of the rear chassis and a blackbox vw engine with porsche fan shroud fit. I'll make a firewall between the engine and gearbox and a simple trunk floor and sides with an open hatch to show it off a little. Since i was using the blackbox engine it seemed logical to use the rear suspension from their beach buggy kit as well. At the front I'm using an old 1/25 axle that turned up from somewhere but it saves me narrowing a tamiya front axle. Wheels are going to be brm with tamiya bug tyres on the front and the front tyres from a fujimi gt40 on the rear. I started this yesterday after posting in athread about it being a simple build next but, well..... While i was working on the rest i was also doing filler primer on the body so i got it and the engine painted this morning. I'm using bug door panels and the rear side panels are pretty simple being just a raised section on flat panels so this should move along fairly quick once I make the rear tubs on the seat wider to fit the wheels. Incidentally, the tubs are corners froma primer lid. I'm still considering this a simple build as so far everything has pretty much fallen into place but i've built a lot of bugs over the years so most of it is just obvious to me now. I dont think I'm doing too bad for 24 hours spent.

I think its going to be a great kit, but icm are like heller in how the bodies go together with almost tamiya quality. And they have a great after sales service too, i contacted them for instructions for a kit i bought on ebay and they arrived yesterday along with a paint guide for the kit which probably wont be used as its going lowrider bomb but it was nice touch.

Nice work on someting not often seen nowadays. I bet your build lasts longer than the real thing did. I dont think many of these even made it to their first mot.

I'm needing a set of the above wheels, trim rings, tyres and whitewalls if anybody has a spare set. I've got loads of trade fodder or i can print some stuff for you. I'm in scotland so postage will be higher but it should be safe in an envelope if they are taped to a bit of card.

it really depends o the mood i'm in. for example my last build was a very simple one with very little detail because i wanted to play with some weathering stuff and i just started another very simple build to try out some other stuff. My next build will be more involved though, it will be the ford saphire cosworth with a uscp escort engine kit and alternative decals. I picked it because it fits the theme for my clubs monthly build and a community build i entered on here. I might do a quick build on one or the revell snapper tractors too because they are nice and simple and dont look like a snapper when finished and i have some stuff printed out for them that i want to use. But i usually have a number of ongoing builds so i tend to bounce between them though recently i've managed to stick to 4 or 5 at a time. oh and i have a delahaye truck to work on too thats been ongoing for 4 years so far

six without s is ix which is 9 in roman numerals

3d printed from a file by ollie vizzle on cults. I had to use a router bit on the underside of the hood as the engine sits a little tall, and i reshaped the front of the hood and the lower body sides as it was very square on corners that should have been rounded. The glass is from replacement computer screen packing. I used a different set of wheels and tyres and added a roof rack too. The paint is mostly just experimenting with various weathering products and i found ak interactive enamels turn tamiya flat clear white. There duplicolour yellows under ammo faded yellow then every weathering product i've gathered was tested out in various places. The dust effect was done with ak enamel grime applied with a make up pad then rubbed off when it started to dry which inlike the slimes didn't turn the clear white. I did strip and repaint the cab once after doing too much too quickly and making a ugly mess. I stripped it with ipa and it cleaned it right off the print but i did have to start over on the priming

movie plots can be confusing but 6 without s will always be 9

not really a surprise. people buying used cars didn't buy them because if they had the money to install the charging system at home they wouldn't be buying a used car. used car buyers aren't going to spend the same again to be able to use the car they just bought. and the green lobby completely missed this point when they handed subsidies to the people that could afford the evs already, instead of using it to push the second hand market because thats where most cars are sold each year and where the biggest green gains are to be made because those are where the poluting cars are. your new golf is always going be much cleaner running than your 75 year old beetle. if the original buyers cant sell their old car because its an ev, then they aren't going to buy one again. at the moment an ev is better as a lease car than a bought car and its going to be that way for a long time yet

i found another reason to watch ev racing, if it rains hard enough they might burst into flames

these are the bottles. the s-02 label goes around the side so i took a second pic

I wonder if gauzy shine enhancer or s-02 clear might work. I used both over molotowe with decent results if the molotowe was over paint, but a high chance of failure when over just molotowe. The s-02 was the better of the two but the gauzy was easier to find. I had to order the s-02 from out east somewhere as nowhere in europe seemed to stock it

maybe a sticking plaster/band aid cut into strips and stretched before applying could work. its might be too thick if you dont stretch it

I got to see ferarri this evening and it left me a little non plussed about it. The style it was filmed in looked great and had a very operatic feel to it but the screenwritting felt like someone from hallmark wrote it on their day off and their theasaurus was nearby. The visuals were impressive and the definite highlight of the movie and not just for some shiny red paint jobs. Overall itsa movie i can say I've seen but not one i'd add to my collection, though if i were a ferarri fan my opinion might be different. this is reviewed just as a movie

competitors with burning eyes cos the winner ate at taco bell

it could be fun to watch tesla owners fight over who's ego is biggest cos it sure wouldn't be over driving talent

second go at the paint. I wanted an old faded paint so after priming and painting as normal i scuffed it up with a 1500 sanding sponge and brush painted on vallejo's faded yellow with no effort at an even or smooth job. once this had dried enough i used a 600 sponge to flat it down then the 1500 again so some of the patchy red primer and deeper yellows were showing through the top paint. As it sits now the glass is in but not got pics yet as it needs a little clean up before i give it all another light coat of matt clear. I've got a little more weathering to do once its all together and a couple small bits of trim and then its just glue the body down and the wheels on. the interior isn't actually crooked either, just loosely together for the pic

you could try dry brushing matt white and light matt blue/grey over the lense part, then trim some googly eyes down to fit the lense. it might give you slightly more realistic look or there are pe lenses available in sizes from 4 through 7mm. I got them from modellers resource in the uk but they closed at the end of last year but they might be available elsewhere too. you would still need to drill out the kit lenses but these lenses are worth it if you can find them. they have a resin over them thats quite effective at making them look realistic. I'll look them out and get some pics later

dress for the job you want

i bet its the same folk that serve meals on shovels or also known as hipsters/trying too hard to be quirky. i know i'm not going to buy beer from a bucket (even if i eat like a horse)

you might find the texture your looking for in food or toy packaging. not sure why the 1 appeared in front of my post but it wont delete

fyi, when pail is spelled in this way it means a bucket

Digital surface has released a belly tank salt flats car. I've got a couple of their 32s and they are very nice kits. I expect this one will be just as nice as the others have been

ipa alcohol or la's totaly awesome cleaner if you want to just sit it in stripper like we do with styrene bodies. The totaly awesome cleaner will even take off matt black but it can be pretty slow. I had a resin body sitting in it for over a year with no problems. DO NOT USE BRAKE FLUID, IT WILL DESTROY THE RESIN AND THERE IS NO FIXING IT and a quick tip if you use tamiya paints but dont want to use different strippers than usual on styrene is to use automotive primers under the tamiya paints. then you can still use your normal strippers if you sand a small area to be open to the primer. the stripper gets between the paint layers and will strip the primer from under the tamiya paints