stitchdup

never again will i have my booth in the bathroom. turns out my deodrant and tamiya rattle tins are the same size when you aint looking and suburu blue armpits are not a good look (next time i'll use something flashier from hok, lol)

arrived in scotland today

to get those seats you'd probably have to rescale or change dimensions in the slicer but a starting point could be one of blackbox's seat seta that have front and rear seats. if you turn off the scale all setting you can change the width of the rear seat to use as a split bench with a front seat. The closest I've seen is sold as truck bench seat and has 2 cup holders in the centre. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/turck-bench-seat-with-cup-holder-25aug-s14 there area few single seats that match this bench fromvarious designers

if you have a printer there are a load of seats and other parts on cults. Loads of different styles and plenty of grilles, bed caps and other custom and stock parts for the chevy trucks too

thats pretty much the story behind this one, except it wasn't an old estate but instead a tumble down stone shed behind the public toilets. its only been got running and cleaned since, the paint is original to the hearse conversion which i believe was done in aberdeen

you could use some extra resin and a brush to thicken up the bodies. obviously you'd need a uv light but they can be had on amazon for less than a fiver. its just a case of building it up by brushing it on and using the light to cure it. its pretty quick to do to as its can be cured in less than a minute so if your going to be working with a lot of printed bodies its a convenient filler to have and there no compatibility issues as its the same product. you may have to do it over few days as overcuring the resin makes them brittle but leaving time between could avoid that.

There is an earler class of vw drag cars that were gassers before inch pincher which is a drag car but wouldn't be considered a gasser as the front was lowered. A vw gasser would have stock height front suspension and only the rear would be lowered. They usually ran american racing style 5 spokes and were stripped to the absolute basics and any tuning was permitted though most were still running the fan shrouds so power would have been low as a high powered vw with the fan shrouds tends to pop when used in drag racing. I have some articles on real early drag vws from before the days of inch pincher and deano dino saur. The 70s were when the cal style drag cars were at their most popular. I can provide pics from a magazine article of a genuine early drag car if interested

the hot water trick still works, but you need to use water closer to boiling than we do with resin or plastic, and its has to be cooled immediately with cold water or it may go back to its original warped state. I find it works best to do it in smaller stages and one section at a time as the print goes floppy. I found this out when a set of door cards i printed for a 32 coupe were too flat to fit. I figured i had nothing to lose as i printed it myself so if it went wrong i could print more. I also placed the printed parts on a sponge before pouring water out the kettle over them. This keeps the heat more consistent on small parts and cools the parts quicker when the cold water goes on. I have noticed that thinner parts are more inclined to warp

if you have an electric polisher and an old fine pad you can use toothpaste to bring back the clear. its very mild and lasts a good while. You can also take the lenses off the light to do the insides if needed by placing the light unit in an electric oven until the glue around the lense softens. DONT USE A GAS OR FAN OVEN, the heat is not even enough. the lense will come apart with a little leverage now and to refix them just clean the old glue away and use tiger seal. be sure to mask before using the tiger seal as once its on its not coming off again without damage.

Thats just cool, i wonder how a grille from the swoopy lindberg rod would look on it? it might save having to do much with the sides

They just got mixed up, its supposed to aircraft engine with a car body. Like we did before ww2 in britain

is that a gas burner from the hob with a "pipe" gauze on it?

saw something from pre 1920 cruising about today. i know nothing about this era of car but i know it wasn't a model t. It had a brass grille, most of the controls seemed to be outside the car and it was sedan type bodywork. pretty quiet sounding engine too. I'm going to guess at it being fairly early as it looked more like a cart than a car still. It seemed like the lights were updated as they looked to be later electric ones

is it elon musks new invisible car?

for poly glue i use revell contacta most of the time but if i want a thicker/slower running poly i use humbrol in the yellow bottle (i dont know if humbrol have a difference between bottle colours but i suspect not). Its a little thicker than the revell glue but the needle clogs easily.

I wouldn't worry about stripping the chrome before painting. its pretty tough stuff so i would just get it as flat as i could with varying grades of sand paper, then use etch primer and filler primer and do any needed filling after that. The plastic chrome on car exteriors is a lot tougher than model chrome so just use it as your base and work from there. Treat it as if you are painting a plastic bumper and you'll be fine.

went to fit the new resin feeder to my printertoday only to find the bottle top loose. Looks like there was nothing wrong with the feeder apart from my own error.

it has a pretty cool style

must be a 3 in 1 kit

I stick the cap in next the hinges of a door and use the door to hold it. comes off with a twist then. as long as you have decent doors and frames it shouldn't do any damage and i think most of us have them near our benches

you better count the parts to be sure none are missing. you would be annoyed to get to the end of the build and find the corner piece missing and salt is just the wrong scale to replace it with. lol

I hope they use styrene for it this time. The kingswood has awful plastic that many glues just dont stick to and dont even think about model glues cos their even worse. But the subject matter is cool. I'm dreading trying to paint over the filler as i have no doubt its going to be a fight

this is the closest to it in 24 or 25 scale

Does the glass and hood for the kit you have fit the new body? if it does you might get away with cutting the chassis into quarters and stretching and widening it as needed. You would have to modify the interior and dash too but its an simpler job than making the larger kit fit the smaller body if you choose fairly flat areas to cut. I would try to find the correct kit first though as it wont need cutting up and leaves you with an intact kit

3d printing isn't scratchbuilding, its just having the aftermarket on your bench as another tool. Even if you build the file from scratch (pun intended) its not really what we would consider scratchbuilding as to the majority of us on the forum scratchbuilt means its a one off and an easily printed file isn't that. Its more kit creating than scratching