stitchdup

I dont have the m5 but i have m3 and a mono 4. I never use the anycubic slicer, and instead i use the free version of lychee. Any problems I've had have been user error rather than a fault with the machines, apart from the aurofeeder on the m3. It stopped working but it was at the same time the bottles of resin changed slightly. I got replacement parts free under guarentee and they arrived in less than 2 weeks. The problem turned out to be the new bottles were a couple of mm shorter so the feed tube was getting blocked. 3mm off the bottom fixed it and its been fine since.

It snowed here on sunday afternoon. by half past 3 there was no vegetables, milk, bread, meat or pasta left at any of the 3 supermarkets. Theres no need to fill your trolleys because of a some snow. just shop for a couple extra days, not an entire month so then everybody gets fed. it was the same the 2 weeks before christmas, less boats due to weather so everybody filled their freezers. ships used to plan ahead when there was a weather warning, now they just cross they fingers and hope

its pretty good, some subtitles at the start but they soon fade away once the movie gets going and settles mostly into english. If you are interested in how we got to group B rally cars, this is set in the 2 years before and focuses on the battle between lancia and audi. as for le mans or dys of thunder, i'd say its really closer to the smokey yunnick stories than any other racing tales.

Nicely done, not often you see them done with black paint and when it looks this good i dont know why?

The aurora still exists. its was shared on an american magazine during the early 90s and while most people were still asking what is that? a british guy called andy saunders had bought it and rstored it. He also built his own dream car using an old galaxy

The easiest way to tell when humbrol changed the formula is by 1/1 car colours. When yellow cars seemed to dissappear is when the lead was taken out as old yellow paints were all lead based. I dont think theres anything that harmful in it now. they sell it in fishing shops too as its great for flies. I think its most likelly in short supply because oil is expensive and humbrol always seemed to be the first to cheap out on ingredients. I think they had some sorta deal with revell at some point too as the revell and humbrol enamels had the same colour numbers for a while. The revell acrylics are much better than the humbrol ones too so if there was a deal I'd guess its gone. If anybody is needing humbrol enamels I am happy to get them for you, but not the metalisers as they are hard to get now

vw pro street cars usually run firestone wide ovals on dds rear rims with mercedes smart car front tyres. you can get the wide ovals in the recent american car rim sets from aoshima. For the front tyres I'd look at the polar lights herley quinn bug, it has a slightly smaller set of the bug tyres than tamiya or revells bugs and its got some optional rims too. Its a snap kit but well worth having in the stash, and if you wanted to convert the tamiya into a split window, the polar lights roof fitsit you only use the rear of the roof. I tend to cut it ten mm above the split rear glass then use that part as a template to cut the tamiya.

humbrol took the lead out in the early/mid eighties. it was around the same time as everybody got better fridges due to the ozone layer. it was before the lead was taken out of petrol. it could even have been the late 70s we took lead out of all paints. i dont remember accurate dates cos i was still pre school then but i remember a family friend having to dump a lot of paint from his shed (he was a decorator) at the time

I completely overdid the weathering on the cab so its soaking in alcohol for an hour to strip it. It would have been just as easy to print another but this gives me the chance to scribe the doors and give the roof some shape. If the roof goes well i'll probably try and some shape to the hood too as its also flat. I'll have to start away from the back edge as reshaping it will lose the vent detail on the scuttle. Luckily i have plenty of alcohol on hand from cleaning prints.

your finger prints are like red plastic and always burn through

thats still warmer than our hottest sea temps, we max out about 55 in august, lol

I'm not sure what engine it runs but the starter is different from most. it had all the gubbins inside the main casing so if the solenoid needed replaced you had to take the entire thing to pieces cos it was right at the drive end. The starter weighed a lot more too being about twince the size. I only had to repair it once though, cos i was helping out a friend that did starters and alternators that got swamped with work. I think the starter was made by c.a.v or something like that.

theres still one of those leylands running around up here. Its owned by a haulage company and only gets used for hauling cattle. They have 4 of them for spares and changed the rest of the fleet to volvos about 10 yeras ago. Its not a restored truck, just an old work truck but its being kept until its unfixable as it was their first ever new truck

dick dastardley was driving and it was the waccy racers championship

i bught a cheap nail art tool set off amazon. loads of different sized applicators (they are used for making false nail) and they shape very well, but in all honesty i forget i have them and use my finger with a rubber glove finger

its looking good, the centreline look right at home on it. with the hood bulge i would strip it just to be safe. you dont want to do all this work then have th paint react

just do what Gary said to do then follow the wiring guide you found after its glued down and secure. You'll get a better bond if you give the distibutor shaft a light sand before gluing it down

I find oven cleaner removes the chrome plate but unless its an enamel primer it wont touch the undercoat. la's totaly awesome cleaner removes both but its mild enough to leave resin parts in too and works on enamel and acrylics and even removes black primer if you leave it a while, but its not a fast stripper. bleach removes chrome but not undercoat. after any of these a q tip and alcohol removes the rest.

the instructions are in the wing dings font

is it a powerstroke in the meng f350?

you only have gorilla glues

Paid curtoms fees on a couple of audi kits, so the royal mail in their infinite wisdom are saying i didn't pay it so they are sending it back to spain. and their helpline for fees is garbage with a 45 minute waiting time and no chance of speaking to a human

got ya covered, i have one spare from doing a c1 trans kit.

There might be a body available but i dont know what chassis would work for it. Model-cars.co.uk have a number of 60s british car bodies and there seems to be more added each week. avoid their resin casts though, they are complete garbage

have you looked at whats available in 3d printing? there are a few pro street and pro mod chassis available. this is just one. I've printed this one and it turns out nice https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/pro-mod-chassis-3-piece-big-tire-with-floors-n-firewall