stitchdup

I've found paypal to be a better way to sort ebay problems. Ebay dont care as long as they get their cut which i belive is how they make their decisions, ie, the cut from the seller is x$s but the the buyer is xx$s so in this the buyer wins but if the numbers were reversed the seller wins, while paypal have to stick to banking laws and consumer protection laws. Paypal will freeze an account long before ebay will and for much less, and we all know how much hassle that is. I've been on both sides of disputes on ebay and paypal and paypal took longer but did do some checks and ask for evidence while ebay didn't ask for anything.

I think i have a vw type 3 notchback from them. I recognised the plastic shapeways used which is why i knew where to look

Theres a few files available on cults for off road stuff. I dont recall seeing any specificly for the scout but jeep parts might work and if you also look among the rc parts then you will have many more options as off road seems more popular among them than it is with us model folks. The problem with the rc parts is most will need mounting holes removed or filled. There are loads of options though ranging from vintage through modern and many of the files are free too

zman does an oversized set of the wheels in 3d. you could reduce the size of the caps to suit your application or nahunel customs (not sure if correct spelling but they do a variety of car bodies and parts and their sample pics are brightly coloured) does a range of wheelcover files for muscle cars. I've seen a few others too but these 2 are designers i've had files from. both are on cults

https://www.shapeways.com/product/94RMVZHEY/1-24-66-nova-pro-mod-sep?optionId=61554746&li=marketplace

sloppy seconds used to be a local second hand shop until the internet made people get offended

Its a triumph tr3. doesn't look to be that bad just dented and dirty. I'd just throw it on a slammed bug pan and call it done

If its just for kits you could try scalemates. its got a feature that lets you track your kits

if your not worried about it having to be that boxing, the van and group of people are available seperatelly. the group of people is called campus friends and the van is in a few versions

Yup for 1500 quid i can do every test for heavy construction plant, from a skid steer to a tower crane. Its a half day course..... and apparently its legal but in reality they only show you a dvd of someone using the machines. To do it right is thousands per test but even after doing these courses i wouldn't let them look at the keys, even though the bit of paper makes them legal to take them on the road. I've seen what a skilled driver can do in a digger, when my cousin found out how much a stab driver was going to cost him he welded (properly, lol) a bracket on an old digger bucket so he could flip the stabs into place on the bucket without getting out each time. saves him thousands but also saved him a lot of time. But he spent his childhood driving diggers as his dad is the repair guy. He taught himself to crack open eggs with the digger and is skilled enough he's the guy bomb disposal or the military planes archeologists call every time they need a digger driver on the islands. He's dug up 8 ww2 planes so far but i dont know who's they were

wow, nice work on the seat

I've been using the tamiya sanding sponges to prep 3d prints. They are a little thicker than the micro mesh pads but much more flexible and can be scrunched into fairly tight balls for doing corners and edges. I haven't tried them wet but i see no reason they wouldn't work. The spnges are about 6 x 8 inch and start at 400 grit i think. They seem to last well when used dry as i've been using them on everything since december. I've also been gluing small pieces of wet n dry to coffee stirrers when i need into tight areas or a specific shape. It uses up those little pieces we all accumulate and i think works better than the albion alloys sanding sticks. There are other brands of the sanding sponges available too and they all appear to be the same but i haven't tried them. Also, i only have the 600 and 1500 grit ones but fully intend getting more of them when the shop gets some in again. The drawback to the sponges is they aren't as much use for flat areas as they are very much softer then the micro mesh pads. It closer to a thin firm dish cloth/sponge in feel and pliability

I did a welding course in the late 90s. It was a course i had no choice but to do (i'd been unemployed for 6 weeks so was forced to do the course or my dole would be stopped) and it was a complete waste of time. There was no actual welding done at any time yet i became a qualified welder out of it. If you've ever seen the bottom of a chicken coop, then you've seen my welding though the stuff on the coop probably holds better. Come to think of it, my mums soup probably holds better than my welds

Ni ce work, your effort is paying off

i ordered 2 usb adapters and sd cards from amazon. they sent me a camera adapter for the sd card but no usb which is the part i need, and why i ordered 2

yeah, i made a mistake when i tried to order a bag of 1000. ten thousand arrived so i might as well use them. I've used about 500 on this so far. I like how if you give them a light scuff with p80 sandpaper you can then weather them with chalk and charcoal to age them, and sealing it is just hair spray so its cheap. and pva and wood glue are the same thing though on this i mostly used uhu glue so i had time to reposition the sticks. I've got some grip tape from a skateboard to do the roof sheeting. If i rub it with some concrete it ends up looking like old tar sheets

Thats a neat trick for the texture, gonna have to mind that one on. If you need links for aircooled vw files i can probably provide them for most stuff. Once my new sd cards arrive I'm going to be printing a full drag chassis for the tamiya bug with a pauter engine. I've done a test print on the engine and the parts that printed look real good, but my memory stick was failing so some parts didn't print right. There really is a pile of different parts for the aircooled stuff now and its pretty awesome, and all down to 3d printing. Even 5 years ago there was just one aftermarket aircooled engine and now we have multiple choices.

my friend uses an app on his smart phone for scanning. I got him to scan a tamiya vw beetle engine bay yesterday and the scan looked just ok. it didn't pick up the ribs on the firewall and it couldn't get into the dip around the lower pulley to scan it, but it did get the detail on the underside of the bay. I think on our next attempt I'm going to cut the lower piece into 3 slices so they can be scanned individually and then stacked in the drawing program to make the parts.

the monogram chopped 3 window top is aftermarket from replicas and miniatures

tl was just a trim level in the same way chevy had bel aire and 210 trim levels. it may be different for us versions but you can get karmann ghia tl and type 3 and 4 tl. and unlike the type 3s the rear side glass in these didn't bend

Well I spoke too soon. It was all foiled but due to my foil being BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH and falling apart on me, the chrome looked awful and then i found the glass was never going to fit without ruining the foil and paint so its back to bodywork. I've had to remove some materiel from the inside of the window edges so the glass can fit where its supposed to and not 2 inches away like it was. on the front and back glass there were some bigger issues with the top and bottom edges where i had to remove materiel from the inside of the rubbers to allow there to be a surface to glue the glass to. The side glass is all a press fit now. Since doing this means it needs repainted anyway i took the chance to remove the side trim so i could flat down some areas around the wheel arches where the print layer lines were still showing. I'll add more trim from some styrene strips. I might just swap the chassis for a tamiya bug too since it is more detailed(and i should have a built one around here somewhere)

Cool bug. Having built a couple of bugs based on these kits I've found opening the trunk/hood makes fixing the bumpers an easier job and gives a much crisper hood edge. Its a little more work at the start but personally i think it worth it. 89 design on cults do a load of upgrades for the tamiya bug that scale down to the 1/25 kits fairly well too, and king 3d have most of the popular aftermarket aircooled rims

his files print fairly nice too. I've done a few of them and have more to do. he has a free file of a recent jeep thats currently free and it looks good printed.

yeah but i only get one print out of them before it needs done again and it might not work for the whole file if its a body or over 1500 slices. The print in the pic was a freshly formatted stick. I have printed a lot of bodies so thats 3 or 4 thousand uses each time so they get well used. I'm on my second and third sticks for each printer now. I only use them for the printers and they only get used on one computer too but i dont think that makes a difference.

Is anybody else noticing they are using a lot of memory sticks for printing. I seem to be wrecking them every 3 or 4 weeks if i do a load of printing. To try and reduce the amount of sticks i'm going through i ordered a couple of dash cam sd cards to see if they last any longer. My thinking is dash cams also put memory through a lot of reads and writes so they should last longer in the printers too. There wasn't much difference in cost so it seemed like a worthwhile test to try out. I'll keep you updated on how they work out. This is what happens to prints when the memory stick goes bad. If you look at the centre of the print it appears almost as if a bubble formed in the print. That warped and twisted thing should be a vw turbo piping and some wheel rims for a drag car. This is how all my first prints turned out when i first got my printer and it was 3 months into using it before i found out about the memory stick being trash. I wasted a lot of money on resin trying to get it to work for me. dont mind the state of the print, its just a test print washed in old alcohol and i will be changing it before i print parts to use. I dont see the point in wasting clean alcohol on a test print that most likely wont be used