stitchdup

the calibra chassis fits aoshima ken'n'mary skylines quite well

still nothing in scotland too

Thanks folks

It was nice weather today so i didn't get the chance to get more pics as mum wanted soe painting done in her garden. But during the day i couldn't get this kit out of my mind so its hitting the bench in the morning. Should make comparison pics easier too, lol

Are any tuning parts available for the model a 4 bangers? or am i better to use a flathead v8? I think the icm phaeton is next on the bench and I'd like to do a mild hotrod using as much of the kit as possible. I figure building it will give me better comparison pics too

If i remember correctly the monogram are slightly shorter but i really only had a glance at them. i'll check in the morning and get some pics. if they are shorter its nothing cutting the rear into the bottom of the fender or new trim wont fix as i think they were very close. the monogram plastic is thicker though so that could be more of an issue

I'll post more pics in the morning. theres some features in the instructions worth seeing and i forgot i had a monogram pick up thats unbuilt so i can get pics of the areas that were awkward before

nitroglycerine used as shampoo will really blow your mind

My icm model a arrived this morning. I've added some comparison pics with the monogram coupe to the icm thread

countries be used as anything apart from food storage? asked the young woodpecker

My model a arrived this morning so i've taken some pics of parts with a gloobomb monogram a coupe and its very close. I suspect the phaeton is slightly wider than monograms coupe at the cowl as the icm hood fits perfectly on top of the monogram part. chassis lengh appears the same, (sorry about the poor pic, i didn't want to remove any parts from the sprue) The monogram a body seems to be slightly shorter than the icm on the sills. theres a 1mm gap between it and where the phaeton sits on the fenders but it looks like the fenders would work on the monogram. Speaking off the fenders, they are slightly differently shaped around the front edge but i'm not an expert so i dont know which is right. they both look right to me but the icm may be a little more raked in the drop back from above the front tyres. its a nice kit and the plastic seems thinner than most feeling almost half the thickness of my lindberg 40 ford was. while any body swapping with the monogram kits looks like it would be a simple swap it would need a hood thats mixed between the monogram rear edge and icm front edge to work as the grilles are different enough not to swap between fenders (hopefully a printer will draw something up as a hood and sides would make body swapping as simple as it looks). the icm grille is about 50% thicker than the monogram. i didn't get pics of all these points as i just couldn't get them clear enough but seriously, a hood and sides needs drawn up fot this kit, and would open up a load more body options from the monnogram kits until mcm bring out more versions (i suspect pick up and van next)

Sorry to hear that Carl, I know ms is pretty tough to deal with. My sister has it too but she has the version that ight not put her in a wheelchair, possibly called remitting ms.When she was taking tumbles she tried more grippy shoes and it seemed to help her but the changes in weather also seem to affect her balance when it goes from cold to warm and vice versa. If you like i can put you in contact with her as she runs a support group for ms sufferers so might be able to give advice too. i think its a facebook group

no need for a fancy vacuum, just put a pair of nylons over the nozzle and it will catch it at the nozzle.

can nobody write a simple instruction manual without qr codes and youtube videos. they qr codes are great IF you have a smart phone but millions of people dont so how about a plain website address. youtube videos are great for entertainment but again if it was written down as words it can be taken to where its needed, and thats before the volume issues. i'm trying to learn and i pay more attention to the stupid volume. all i'm trying to do is find a simple settings table with lift speeds and exposure times and all the important stuff to get a damn print, but instead its ads and qr codes and more failure. the manufcturers guide is no use, everything has the exact same settings no matter what resin colour or type. latest print, those strange distorted things are supposed to be dropped axles

i've done it all mate. new film in the tank, new screen protector, new resin and everything set as it should be but still areas turn out like they were drawn by picasso. what turns out is great but the point of having the big printer was to do larger prints. i can do wheels and engines on the litt;le printer but its doint the same. i just seem to be wasting money on this thing. its like getting the settings is some big secret and nobodies sharing it. when it works its great but i seem to hve a 75% failure rate and i cant figure out why. settings that work one day turn out garbage the next 3 times. my last full good big print was in november, since then i just haven't been able to use the whole size on the big printer or the little one at all.

pulling my hair out fighting with my stupid printers. nothing seems to fix the stupid machines. settings that worked perfectly well now dont work. i havent changed anything

i hate this hobby. 3 weeks of polish and clear only to drop it and lose a chunk of the paint. its in stripper.

the tie downs look to be motorbike inner tube or maybe even seatbelt cord in this pic. for inner tube i'd just use some black wire sleeving

you should be fine. i've sprayed gloss black and it turned out grey but it polished out fine. even if you find it doesn't polish it up you could still use it as a base coat and spray again when conditions are better

join specialist clubs for each model. if anybody knows where to get parts its those folks. also if they were exported and sold by harley, try those countries as a dealer network should have parts. were military versions made? if so those guys also hoard parts. ask at shows, wear signs on your shirt at shows or anywhere theres a load of similar interest folks. searching abroad is probably your best bet, harleys are more a weekend toy on this side of the pond but there are loads of them in europe and lots of support. germany, belgium or italy might be a good start, thats where most of the ones i see are registered

if your on a budget a cheap airbrush, thinners and dollar store nail varnish will save you money on paint. an airbrush might seem expensive but how much is a can of paint? 6 tins of paint can get a starter set with a compressor but i'd look in he $120 rangefor a set that has a tank and pressure gauge. the vast majority of nail varnish is just thick auto acrylic paint anyway.

i find it easier to pump some onto scraps and then brush it. work fast and fairly wet and do it all at once as it wont touch up nicely. if it goes wrong you need to clean it off before recoating as it will soften the previous layer.

a seller on ebay called walkers models 1966 has it for £35 and change with free uk delivery

what can i use to grease the jack screw on the print plate riser? mine is a bit dry and the grease that is there is pretty dirty now. it seems logical to me to use clean stuff before it becomes a problem

nicely done, do i see some styling from a certain bedford cf around the front and back?