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vw pro street cars usually run firestone wide ovals on dds rear rims with mercedes smart car front tyres. you can get the wide ovals in the recent american car rim sets from aoshima. For the front tyres I'd look at the polar lights herley quinn bug, it has a slightly smaller set of the bug tyres than tamiya or revells bugs and its got some optional rims too. Its a snap kit but well worth having in the stash, and if you wanted to convert the tamiya into a split window, the polar lights roof fitsit you only use the rear of the roof. I tend to cut it ten mm above the split rear glass then use that part as a template to cut the tamiya.

humbrol took the lead out in the early/mid eighties. it was around the same time as everybody got better fridges due to the ozone layer. it was before the lead was taken out of petrol. it could even have been the late 70s we took lead out of all paints. i dont remember accurate dates cos i was still pre school then but i remember a family friend having to dump a lot of paint from his shed (he was a decorator) at the time

I completely overdid the weathering on the cab so its soaking in alcohol for an hour to strip it. It would have been just as easy to print another but this gives me the chance to scribe the doors and give the roof some shape. If the roof goes well i'll probably try and some shape to the hood too as its also flat. I'll have to start away from the back edge as reshaping it will lose the vent detail on the scuttle. Luckily i have plenty of alcohol on hand from cleaning prints.

your finger prints are like red plastic and always burn through

thats still warmer than our hottest sea temps, we max out about 55 in august, lol

I'm not sure what engine it runs but the starter is different from most. it had all the gubbins inside the main casing so if the solenoid needed replaced you had to take the entire thing to pieces cos it was right at the drive end. The starter weighed a lot more too being about twince the size. I only had to repair it once though, cos i was helping out a friend that did starters and alternators that got swamped with work. I think the starter was made by c.a.v or something like that.

theres still one of those leylands running around up here. Its owned by a haulage company and only gets used for hauling cattle. They have 4 of them for spares and changed the rest of the fleet to volvos about 10 yeras ago. Its not a restored truck, just an old work truck but its being kept until its unfixable as it was their first ever new truck

dick dastardley was driving and it was the waccy racers championship

i bught a cheap nail art tool set off amazon. loads of different sized applicators (they are used for making false nail) and they shape very well, but in all honesty i forget i have them and use my finger with a rubber glove finger

its looking good, the centreline look right at home on it. with the hood bulge i would strip it just to be safe. you dont want to do all this work then have th paint react

just do what Gary said to do then follow the wiring guide you found after its glued down and secure. You'll get a better bond if you give the distibutor shaft a light sand before gluing it down

I find oven cleaner removes the chrome plate but unless its an enamel primer it wont touch the undercoat. la's totaly awesome cleaner removes both but its mild enough to leave resin parts in too and works on enamel and acrylics and even removes black primer if you leave it a while, but its not a fast stripper. bleach removes chrome but not undercoat. after any of these a q tip and alcohol removes the rest.

the instructions are in the wing dings font

is it a powerstroke in the meng f350?

you only have gorilla glues

Paid curtoms fees on a couple of audi kits, so the royal mail in their infinite wisdom are saying i didn't pay it so they are sending it back to spain. and their helpline for fees is garbage with a 45 minute waiting time and no chance of speaking to a human

got ya covered, i have one spare from doing a c1 trans kit.

There might be a body available but i dont know what chassis would work for it. Model-cars.co.uk have a number of 60s british car bodies and there seems to be more added each week. avoid their resin casts though, they are complete garbage

have you looked at whats available in 3d printing? there are a few pro street and pro mod chassis available. this is just one. I've printed this one and it turns out nice https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/pro-mod-chassis-3-piece-big-tire-with-floors-n-firewall

so not branded as lesney which was my point

round 2 own the brand and its copywrites as far as i know. they have done kits recently. amt as a brand still exist because it sells product, and when its been taken over each time they kept the name. its probably why penzoil dont sell ketchup, its just not a brand you would associate with the product when heinz exist and even if its the best in the world heinz would outsell them every year and the costs in advertising to beat them would make it not worthwhile to do. amt as a brand are known for model kits and memerobilia so rebranding to lesney would probably have lost sales as who's heard of lesney model kits? a lot of brands are probably worth more as a brand than products simply for the associating we all place on them. for example, in scotland every vacuum cleaner is a hoover (except possibly a henry cos their just the best hoovers)

There was a car crash near my house last night and luckily for me it was a 90s car so now i have a load of free orange and red transparent plastic, and my neighbours think i'vw got great communiity spirit for cleaning it up. I just wanted some modelling materials for free

Right at the top of scotland, then you have to swim or get a boat, drive across some ww2 monuments to a viking cathederal, then its another boat (if the weather is decent) journey to an island that barely shows up on a map cos its 2 x 4 miles if you draw a box around the furthest points. Or also known as the orkney islands

I would give it a wash to get rid of any dust its picked up on it travels but it shouldn't need it if the printer has cleaned it properly. It shouldn't be necessary but its generally a good to habit to be in with most kits. On the larger parts I like to give them a gentle rub with a 600 grit sanding sponge (the soft ones, not the polishing ones) to knock back the print lines then usually, if the parts are good a couple layers of automotive filler primer has you ready to proceed as you normally would. The only time you should get a reaction is when the parts aren't fully cured but you would know before putting any paint on if thats the case as it would be soft or not quite hard feeling. Theres no mold release just resin for the print and water or alcohol for cleaning it. And MAKE SURE YOU WEAR A GOOD MASK that seals around the mouse and nose. The dust is bad for you. I've also taken to painting hidden areas with old paint just to seal them off as its a uv protection. If you are going to drill parts for mounting/painting go slow and step up the drill size slowly, parts can break just from drilling when you make too big a jump in bit size or if your saw has too coarse teeth. printed resin seems to like less aggressive tools better.

I should have got a pic before i swamped it in paint, my red primer was much thicker than i expected and i lost a lot of lettering and detail. If I'd known how thick it was i could have skipped the filler primer layers on the grille. But then the file is sold as a custom truck too, rather than a stock one so I wasn't expecting it to be accurate. Its got enough detail to be a pleasant build and give a nice enough model but if i was building something more detailed i would start with a kit but this is fine to mess about with weathering stuff and experiment without having to strip a kit. There are seperate lenses to print for the grille but I'm not going to bother. I've got another crew cab file that much more detailed but the body on its too thin for me to print sucessfully but until i remove the supports it looks great. If i could get it to print I'd have all the various bed options and a few custom chassis as that file has a lot in it extra. The biggest bonus with this is it cost me £23 total to print the first one, the next one cost £3 because i already bought the file. I just finished curing this c60 and its a much nicer body but still has innacuracies but i find the majority of bodies do and if they dont they just dont rescale very well. The chassisfor the c60 is drying after its alcohol wash so I'll get it cured in the morning. Its a simplified kit but worth a bit more effort than the c10 is getting.