stitchdup

the gloss should sharpen the reflections. the fuzzy is just the metallics reflecting different from the colours as its not quite as shiny as it will be after clear.

if you think you will be doing bodies I'd go for the largest you can afford. even if you dont do bodies you can still print multiple items at once. I have 2 printers and my first was an anycubic mono but i found it too small for doing bodies, so bought an anycubic m3 max. another thing to look for is a decent deal. since its january a bit of looking might find you a deal that has a printer and curing station. another thing is make sure your computer has enough power to run the slicers as most need at least an 8gig processor or they will crash. Personally I'd get the biggest, even if you dont do many bodies its good to have the option available without having to buy another like i did.

very nice, i particularly like your colour choices. somehow makes it look modern but classic too

you could maybe modify a jag straight 6 to suit. Going purely on the visual of the engine the aston engine is wider but otherwise looks similar to the jag engine. I think if you split the jag engine block and sump lengthwise down the middle you could then add some plastic sheet to fatten it up. another benefit of the jag engine is the carbs and accessorieswill be similar too. I know theres a file for a 3d print of the jag 6 that might work with a little scaling as then you can fatten the valve covers on the printer too

ok its on chassis number 4 but i've only got the front end sorted out. i still need to decide how the back is going to be as i want it to be as custom as the rest but i've changed my mind on the rear axle again as i found a nice resin quickchange in my parts box. it might be the start of yet another independant axle or it might just get a 3 or 4 link. either way it will be bagged. so today i started assembly on the engine as the previous was just a paint test and i broke parts off it but i just printed another. I'll be adding the wiring and carbs the morn as its a little delicate to handle while the glue is setting. the dynamo was drawn up by my friend and i switched the front of the engine for a part from another flathead so i could have engine mounts and the belt set up to make it a more street engine. if you look closely at the engine pics you can see i have slotted the area under the engine and the slots are open all the way down. I did this for cooling and because i thought it might look kinda funky. I. i think the only stock part left is the grille now and its getting some smoothing on the top as the hood is now one piece so the hinge mount is superfluous had to assemble the engine to allow me to finish the front suspension as the blower and front suspension arms will be on a combined mount. I have some other bits i've customised too which will hopefully tie it all together. theres gonna be a lot of styling lines running underneath the floor

for a rust powder you could buy it from one of the model paints places but you can just as easily make your own. you will need a mortar and pestle (i use an old stone bowl and a marble egg) some soap filled wire scrubbing pads and white vinegar and a window that gets plenty of sun. First rinse all the soap out of the wire pads and then place into a a jar or container and cover with the vinegar. put the container in the window and give it a stir every couple of days. within 7 to 10 days you'll have a crusty rust in the bottom of the container and all the vinegar will be gone. now you can grind it up with the mortar and pestle into a nice powdered rust. if you feel adventurous you can add some dry dirt powder to the rust to give a dirtyor dusty rust look. the great thing about the rust dust is you can put metal filings from iron into the vinegar with the pads to get a redder rust also further to @iBorg tip, get dirt from different areas. I've got jars of it ground up ready to use. I have various shades of browns, reds, oranges and almost blue (the blue is ground up rock dust)

looking at the crease on the front fender and the way the light on the bottom looks i think the chassis is bent. there appears to be a pretty big dunt under the front seats and i dontthink the front door will open without doing more damage

you could make your own if your not worried about the wheels turning. just stretch a bit of sprue to the size then drill it out to fit the wheels

woohoo! another tractor kit

good to know, i assumed it was tamiya because of the wheels. they are done tamiya style with the male fitting rather than the usual aoshima and fujim female fittings

theres one inthe entex/imai/various other brands kit of the 58 caddy. the valve covers i it have the cadllac script on them, its 1/24 scale. i dont know if its accurate or not but given the roof never fits i'd guess its not

your off to a good start, its a cool project

i think some of those were also available in metal casts. I'm sure i had most of the tractors and implements growing up that i got from the localjohn deere sales place

I'm just happy to help sir, i've done this all 3 times already for friends and family and i dont see any point keeping thesethings to myself when it can help others.

the bed alarm will be a massive help to you, and might even allow you to relax a little during the night. theres an easier fix than a stair gate to keep him in his room at night too, just swap door handles and tumblers from a door that opens the other direction. then it needs to be lifted to open it and with dementia/alzheimers thats something that wouldn't occur to them to think off. It works best with the doors that have a handle rather than the round/ball type handles. its something simple to swap but it will help keep them safe. one of those find my keys/gps tags can be useful too if he has a jacket he wears most, just hide one in the lining then you have a simple tracking device if he does get out. even with all these things theresa high chance he will still get out so maybe saying something to your neighbours to call if they see him out alone.

yes thats pretty much it, but if you also start a wip thread on your build you can add straight 6 community build to your thread title

I'm getting data error messages when i try to post and when i try to access the forum. sometimes it says the data is currupted and other that say data error. i'm using firefox on windows 11. its not a regular error, and its only been happening since monday, but not on every post, just the odd one here and there. the error screen that pops up is black and white only when usually the modelcars logo is in colour. if i refresh or click the try again button on the page a few times it seems to post but i get stuck on the error page until i open a previously accessed page. it seems to be intermittent, i might get it on every post for ten mins or i might get it on none for hours. The only constant is its between 10am and 12pm gmt each time just happened again. screenshot it

the tamiya is your best bet. theres loads to pick from on ebay if you dont mind ordering from overseas or you might find engine bays for the fujimi and hasegawa kits from a 3d printer. theres a few out there to choose from, including tube frontends for drag cars

i dunno, it was a proper delivery company and its on the orkney islands. wouldn't do them any good anyway, theres nothing for them to nick

I'm going with a revell mk2 golf. To give me a little more leaway on wheels space I decided to use the zender version as it was available from vw so would be classed as a factory option. I'll be trying to stick to only vw parts so will be using a printed r32 engine and 6 speed box with a small/medium sized turbo for drivability. Suspension will probably be airlift performance bags a its cheapers than a hls system like is fitted on supercars but still includes top quality coilovers, just with the spring replaced with a bag and is again a bolt on. Since i detest how revell did the engine bay on the mk2 kits I'll be replacing it with a 3d printed version which has none of the bottles and stuff molded in. I'm going to try and keep the look as 1980s so will probably install a heckblende (coloured extension to make the rear lights appear to cover the entire width of the rear) and a window louvre. Wheels will probably be bbs or upsized oem 3 piece of some sort

delivery company tried to deliver a big telly to me, i haven't ordered one and its not in my name so i refused delivery. they seemed to think it was up to me to fix somebody elses mistake and weren't happy having to reload it.

A source for free clear plastic for doing glass is your local phone/laptop/tech repair shops. Every new screen comes in decent clear packaging and the shops have to pay to dump it. I've been getting 2 carrier bags full every month from them as my friend works there and its costing them a lot each month to send it for recycling, so they keep it for me. it needs sorting as some is a little distorted but most of it is good

yeah, i can get it posted in the morning if the storm has passed

i can easy send you some, i have 2 sizes and i'll never use it all